battery relocation

silver95taurus

silver95taurus

Forum Member
my 93 Taurus SHO is seeing more and more road course duty, so I'm trying to distribute the weight a lil better. doing a fiberglass hood, removing ac compressor/condensor. so naturally thinking about a battery relocation. most complete kits I'm seeing are 2gauge cable, but there are kits without cases with 1 gauge. the other option I have is making my own kit with 0 gauge cable.

what would be the correct size cable to run front to back? battery is a 675cca batt. 110a alternator.
 
I've always used 0/1 welding cable for stuff like this. You'd probably be fine with 2 gauge, but why chance it?
 
2 Gauge "real 2 gauge" would be ok with the cranking load of a v6 starter. I would personally prefer 0 for a number of reasons. Make sure you run a big charging cable to the battery and to the power distrubution center.

I would go 2 gauge here as well due to the length of the run. Its always better to overcable then undercable.The worst that happens is less voltage drop on the line.
 
Go bigger, can't hurt. Use Aluminum wire to save more weight. 15' (actually 2x15') of 2 guage is more weight than you think. Use good grease to avoid oxidation on the exposed joints and terminals.
 
where can i get aluminum wire locally? whats it cost per foot? i will be regrounding the block to the strut towers up front and the battery to the rear strut towers. need to get measurements soon to see exactly how much i need. car is still in storage but i have a few events schedualled already. may and june.
 
silver95taurus said:
where can i get aluminum wire locally? whats it cost per foot? i will be regrounding the block to the strut towers up front and the battery to the rear strut towers. need to get measurements soon to see exactly how much i need. car is still in storage but i have a few events schedualled already. may and june.
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you have to triple the wire guage in aluminum and given the way DC current conducts its not a good idea.

Just run 2 guage, you'll be fine, but make sure its fine stranded welding cable.
 
DRAG-ULA said:
There's a company that makes carbon fiber batteries. Here's the summit link. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BRL-B2015/

At 15 lbs, you might not have to move it. You'll add that much weight in #2 cable. Something to think about for 150 bucks....
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I have had mixed results with AGM (Absorbed Glass Mat) batteries. Lots of bikes run them, but they don't live incredibly long, and their CCA ratings don't jibe well with their actual performance. For a small displacement engine that does not require a lot of power to fire over, they tend to be a decent option, especially since they don't leak/overflow. Also, there is a big step from 550-ish CCA to 650 CCA, batteries tend to double in weight, and start to weigh 40#.. not a huge weight savings when you get to that point.

FWIW I guess...
 
silver95taurus said:
where can i get aluminum wire locally? whats it cost per foot? i will be regrounding the block to the strut towers up front and the battery to the rear strut towers. need to get measurements soon to see exactly how much i need. car is still in storage but i have a few events schedualled already. may and june.
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Terminal Supply may have it, but you can get SER wire at Home Depot for $3/foot or so. If you know somebody in the building trades that has an account at place like Michigan Chandelier, it's MUCH cheaper. I got 4/3 at $1.70/foot when I ran 220V out to my shop. You need wires in the bundle (2 not 4) so it's probably cheaper.
 
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