assembly

302stang87

302stang87

Forum Member
okay i got the front half of the motor pulled apart im workin on a 88 302 still in the car cuz i dont have a cherry picker, whats the best way to get the crank pully off and do i have to pull off the intake and heads to do a cam swap or no?
 
Crank pulley or balancer? Crank pulley should be 4 bolts. Balancer you can rent a tool from autozone.Cam only requires removal of the intake if in fact it is a stock piston short block and you know the valve clearance will be ok with your cam selection. Anything else its a safe bet to remove a head and use clay to measure your piston to valve clearance.
 
302stang87 said:
okay i got the front half of the motor pulled apart im workin on a 88 302 still in the car cuz i dont have a cherry picker, whats the best way to get the crank pully off and do i have to pull off the intake and heads to do a cam swap or no?
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The pulley should unbolt, but the balancer / dampener will need to be pulled off using a puller. You can probably borrow one or go to the parts store and get a loaner. Depending on the cam specs and being sure of the lift clearances you may not have to pull the heads off, but surely the intake, and valve covers will need to come off and distributor has to come out. You will have to take the rocker arms off, pull the push rods, spider tray and finally lifters. This all has to be done before taking out the lifters. After the lifters are out then cam shaft.
 
well im only puttin a e cam in the car till my real motor gets done.. im takin off both now when i put the balancer back on is there a certain way to put it back on? n when i slide the cam out do i have to worry bout anything fallin inside the block or no?
 
motor will be a stock bottom end 302 with vic jr intake 650 demon nos fogger set up for 175 hit with trick flow track heat 190cc heads elec. water pump only thing being ran is alternator thats pretty much it other than the trans has a few goodies out back is 31 spline strange axles with 4.10 gear aluminum drive shaft strange disc brakes all the way around... what do you think it should run in a full gutted car only thing in it is carpet front seats and cage
 
I've always had to take the heads off in order to pull the lifters on my 8.2 deck SBF stuff. With the heads on, the lifters couldn't come up high enough to pull out of the lifter bore. I don't know about anyone else, but I don't want my liftes falling inside my engine when i slide the cam out. Now this is with solid roller lifters. The body dimensionsay be different (shorter), on a stock hydraulic lifter.
 
302stang87 said:
well im only puttin a e cam in the car till my real motor gets done.. im takin off both now when i put the balancer back on is there a certain way to put it back on? n when i slide the cam out do i have to worry bout anything fallin inside the block or no?
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There is a installer tool that will pull the balancer onto the snout. If the balancer is super tight, may be a good idea to get it honed out a little bit to ease installation and later removals.
 
camaromann said:
I've always had to take the heads off in order to pull the lifters on my 8.2 deck SBF stuff. With the heads on, the lifters couldn't come up high enough to pull out of the lifter bore. I don't know about anyone else, but I don't want my liftes falling inside my engine when i slide the cam out. Now this is with solid roller lifters. The body dimensionsay be different (shorter), on a stock hydraulic lifter.
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why would it be shorter? because the lift is smaller?
 
302stang87 said:
why would it be shorter? because the lift is smaller?
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Stock lifters come right out. Ive never had to remove a head with a hyd roller to get the lifters out. Solid rollers can sometimes have a taller cup on top of the lifter as well as be longer in the body. They use a different link system to keep them from turning in the lifter bores.
 
Billydroveit said:
Stock lifters come right out. Ive never had to remove a head with a hyd roller to get the lifters out. Solid rollers can sometimes have a taller cup on top of the lifter as well as be longer in the body. They use a different link system to keep them from turning in the lifter bores.
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so i dont have to worry bout push rods fallin inside the block or anything like that? because i dont have a cherry picker to pull the engine out so i am doin this while its still in the car! which ever is the safest route then thats what i wanna do, and how can you tell whether a block is a solid roller or hyd. roller?
 
302stang87 said:
why would it be shorter? because the lift is smaller?
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Different lifter bodies are different heights. Typically a solid roller will have a taller body/longer body and is connected by a tie-bar link 99% of the time. Most aftermarket hyd. Roller lifter are also held together with tie-bars now instead of the valley hold down. I'm personally just not sure on your stock lifters coming out with the heads on, but from the sound of others who have posted you will be fine with leaving the heads on.

Take your intake off
Tale valve covers off
Take rockers off & pushrods out
Take lifters out noting what hole they came out.
Then pull apart the front of your engine to access the cam.
Be very carefull when pulling your old cam out.
You do NOT want to bump,bang, or hit any of the cam bearings as you can damage or knock them out.
Same rules apply putting the cam in. Do NOT let it hit or bump any bearings.
Cover the cam in assembly lube/break in lube from comp cams. (Red sticky stuff)
 
If you have questions about re setting up your lifter and pre loading them just ask. I have heard WAY too many dumb ass ways of people doing this. There is only 1 right way.
 
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