Ask AutoLavish! Answers to your car care questions...

[Marc@AutoLavish]

Awesome. Thanks so much for the helpful advice. I've made two pages of notes after reading all 32 pages of this thread.

I'm glad you've found it useful. Feel free to ask more questions if you have them or need anything clarified. Also please give feedback if you follow any of the advice from myself and others in this thread. The great thing about a place like Motown Muscle is the collective knowledge. Perhaps your testimony gets someone else to finally do something they were worried to do / try.

 

[04GoaT]

What do you recommend to clean suede? Wife's Acura has leather seats with suede centers, and the passenger seat is a tad dirty. I'm afraid to use my Lexol cleaner or conditioner on it.

 

[Marc@AutoLavish]

Leather Master Foam Cleaner followed by Leather Master Eco Protector.

Remember you don't want to get the synthetic suede too wet: two light cleaning sessions will be much more effective than one heavy cleaning. Come back a few hours later once completely dry and apply the protectant to help against future problems.

 

[RacerX]

I saw earlier in the thread where you addressed chrome wheels. What recommendations do you have for cleaning, polishing or protecting chrome bumpers?
Also, on a related note, can anything be done about some small scratches in the chrome?

 

[Marc@AutoLavish]

I saw earlier in the thread where you addressed chrome wheels. What recommendations do you have for cleaning, polishing or protecting chrome bumpers?
Also, on a related note, can anything be done about some small scratches in the chrome?

Treat chrome like you treat all chrome. Perhaps some things can get polished out if they're really light: it's worth a shot at least.

 

[Speedy]

I just picked up my new car yesterday and I want to protect the paint with something before winter. It's a black car so I know I need to stay on top of it to keep it looking good. What's process and products should I use? Also it has matte black decals on it and I'm not sure what to put on them. I'd post pictures but can't upload anything to this site again :-(

Thanks
Mike

 

[Marc@AutoLavish]

Use any product you like, and use it often.

As far as the matte black vinyl is concerned, you can't use anything with abrasives / cleaning agents in it. Any high-grade sealant would work fine for your paint AND decals, but an over the counter product should be left to only be used on your paint.

 

[Speedy]

Any recommended product line? I just learned this year that there is a real science to auto detailing. The info out there is unreal

 

[Marc@AutoLavish]

Careful what you read!
Not all advice is well researched/true. Some is taken of out context. Some is in the name of selling products.

The best protective product is one you enjoy to use, and are willing to use often. With that knowledge, you get whatever it is that'll fall into that category. If you spend $40 and you never use it, I think of it as a waste of money. If you spend $100 and use it all the time; money well spent.

Waxes don't last as long, but it seems to be more of an intimate product to apply and are better in the short run against bird bombs and bug guts. Sealants (synthetic protection products) last a bit longer, are slicker, and usually have easier application, but maybe aren't quite as good against a fresh bird bomb. Some guys choose to put a coat of wax over a sealant application to get the best of both worlds.

Some guys continuously switch what they're using to keep it fresh/new/fun. Whatever you use, use it often!

 

[Speedy]

Thanks for sharing your knowledge Marc! +1

 

[13SECSS]

Marc, if you have what looks to be a poor wet sand job on a silver body panel, what you recommned to perfect this? 3000 grit and a fine cut with a foam pad? In bright lights, the body panel has the heavy swirls and some fish eyes.

 

[Marc@AutoLavish]

It depends if the defects are from not doing enough final sanding / aggressive polishing, or if the defects are paint defects themselves.

To address each scenario:

1. If the defects are painting defects, it likely means no one did a good enough job on the initial "cut and buff" post paint. The solution might be 2,000 or 2,500 grit to eliminate the defects followed by 3,000, then heavy polishing AKA compounding and then polishing after that. In short: everything you'd normally do after painting has to be redone.

2. If the defects are detailing defects such as sanding marks, holograms / buffer trails, you'll likely just need 3,000 at most followed by normal polishing steps there after. This would clean-up the haphazardly executed prior detail work and give you the finish you desire.

 

[Torxila]

Marc, is Opti-Coat a viable product/proceedure to have done on a new car?

Thanks

george

 

[Marc@AutoLavish]

Marc, is Opti-Coat a viable product/proceedure to have done on a new car?

Thanks

george

Absoultely. I have an Opti-Coat application job coming up on Friday. It's a great product, but not a miracle one. Yes, it really does last like it says it does, but as with anything: it's part of the solution, not the solution itself when it comes to taking care of your baby.

 

[Swats]

I saw on facebook today someone recommending using a mixture of 2/3 vinegar to 1/3 to remove ice from car windows. First, I am not going to try it. But I am curious about it. Would the vinegar damage paint, weather stripping, or cowl plastics? Thanks.

 

[tbear1]

Marc,
I have some duct tape residue stuck to my truck. Any suggestions of OTC cleaners? I tried common spray cleaners, but I can't get the glue off. Thanks.

 

[Marc@AutoLavish]

I saw on facebook today someone recommending using a mixture of 2/3 vinegar to 1/3 to remove ice from car windows. First, I am not going to try it. But I am curious about it. Would the vinegar damage paint, weather stripping, or cowl plastics? Thanks.

I'm sure you're thinking acid=bad, but I'm not sure how strong vinegar is, let alone diluted vinegar is. It's likely more damaging to things like your plastics (cowl, wiper arms, etc) than your clear-coat.

Marc,
I have some duct tape residue stuck to my truck. Any suggestions of OTC cleaners? I tried common spray cleaners, but I can't get the glue off. Thanks.

Adhesive residue can be a pain in the butt. As long as it's on a clear-coated surface, you can use solvent-based products like wax&grease remover, acetone, and lacquer thinner. Apply carefully (don't get it on things you don't want it on!), let dwell for a few seconds, and wipe off. Multiple applications might be needed.

 

[tbear1]

Adhesive residue can be a pain in the butt. As long as it's on a clear-coated surface, you can use solvent-based products like wax&grease remover, acetone, and lacquer thinner. Apply carefully (don't get it on things you don't want it on!), let dwell for a few seconds, and wipe off. Multiple applications might be needed.

Marc, Thanks for the suggestion. I was able to get it off with your tip.

I also ended up reading this entire thread and picked up a couple of your recommended products. I appreciate your time keeping this thread alive.

 

[Marc@AutoLavish]

Marc, Thanks for the suggestion. I was able to get it off with your tip.

I also ended up reading this entire thread and picked up a couple of your recommended products. I appreciate your time keeping this thread alive.

Great to hear!

I see this thread is now approaching 45,000 views, which is incredible. It's great to have fellow enthusiasts asking and answering some questions and various people contributing to this thread. Great questions, great discussion as a whole and I'm glad others have enjoyed it.

 

[camaromann]

I've been browsing this thread for a few months now and appreciate all the tips and info. I do have a question though. Hand waxing my vehicles is all I've ever known/done, and its a long gruesome process on my truck. I have never ever used a wheel before, but I'm wanting to finally try it. Is there a recommended buffer or orbital buffer, and also what type of pads a newbie can buy and use? Also I am ONLY wanting to use a wheel to apply wax. I have no interest in trying my hand at buffing out surface scratches, or cutting. I want something I can lean into the paint hard and not damage it(not saying I would ever do this). I guess what I'm looking for is something that has a very high rookie factor lol. Any help or recommendation would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.