Aod shift kit advise and more

[2slowLx]

I have a 90 LX 5.0 auto that for the moment is mostly stock other than few aftermarket goodies ie 4.10's, offroad h pipe, and a few other little things. I hope to be adding more power in the future but nothing crazy something around 300-325 hp.

I am in the process of rebuilding the trans with alto red clutches, a wide ratio gear setup, 2 inch od band, a+ servo and upgraded input shaft. (I have both a non lockup input shaft and a aftermarket pencil shaft havn't decided what I'm going to use yet)

I have a few questions about shift kits and stall speed. I drive this almost daily in the summer with a trip to the track once every few months with some friends

I am looking for tire chirping shifts when wanted but don't want to be driving through town with a neck brace on either. I guess what I am asking is in terms of reliability and ease of installation what has worked well for you in the past? What should I stay away from? (pros / cons)

My other question is with 4.10 gears in the rearend and the wide ratio gear set in the trans what would be the best stall speed to shoot for with my power now and in the future with 300-325 hp?

Thanks for any and all input!

 

[Ozz]

I've only got personal experience with my manual valve body, but before I decided on that I'd been recommended to take a hard look at the Baumann shift kits. Not sure if you're familiar w/the site but over at www.clickclickracing.com you can find a lot of hardcore AOD racers that know all the ins and outs.

I've actually forgotten everything I learned when doing my own build, except the info on the setup I chose. Hopefully the link/suggestion above give you something to look at and research until you hear some other advice.

FWIW my setup is for a supercharged 5.0 w/3.73s, built from a 4R70W, with a full manual VB and custom 10" 3000 stall. I can drive it around as gently as stock without even having to give it any thought, and I can chirp/smoke 'em at the drop of a hat in any gear.

 

[Detroit Gearbox]

Couple things...run the unit as a fluid coupling on the converter rather than having the 1-1 ratio in 3rd & 4th (this means a non lu converter)
You will be happy with a transgo-2 kit.....it uses the reverse low boost valve circuit to raise line pressure in the lower ranges, giving you more holding power and firmer upshifts. Aod are common to wear the pressure regulator bore in the v-body...several up graded replacement valves available along with o-ringed end plugs are available.
Running the low ratio planet will raise your wot 1-2 & 2-3 up shifts to very high rpms....7200+...be careful which governor valves you use in the transgo kit.
Change the rev drum to a mechanical diode style drum. You will break the sprag style. Use the spiral snap ring they offer to hold the sprag on.
Run a 9.5" converter made for your application.
Using a quality gasket set, proper filter(easy up grade is to install a 4x4 pan & filter), checking all clearances, changing the reverse drum and intermediate pressure plate to a 4 cl, replace all torringtons, the low roller, reverse band, upgrade the 2-3 acc piston....install a 4th gear acc assy if it does not have one (certain later years eliminated the 3-4 acc). Buy the alto power pack with kolenes for the direct...run bw friction in fwd & rev drums...high energy & kolenes in intermediate...
Watch the bleed hole on the 2nd gear piston (see service manual. )
They make a nice replacement low energizer spring to deal with case wear...
You will need a hardened input......
Personally I would recommend a 4r70w and buy a compushift controller....but it sounds like your knee deep now...plus the total $ spent is quite higher if you have to buy a controller....everything else is about the same in cost with the aode/4r7ow being slightly cheaper...

 

[2slowLx]

I've only got personal experience with my manual valve body, but before I decided on that I'd been recommended to take a hard look at the Baumann shift kits. Not sure if you're familiar w/the site but over at www.clickclickracing.com you can find a lot of hardcore AOD racers that know all the ins and outs.

I've actually forgotten everything I learned when doing my own build, except the info on the setup I chose. Hopefully the link/suggestion above give you something to look at and research until you hear some other advice.

FWIW my setup is for a supercharged 5.0 w/3.73s, built from a 4R70W, with a full manual VB and custom 10" 3000 stall. I can drive it around as gently as stock without even having to give it any thought, and I can chirp/smoke 'em at the drop of a hat in any gear.

Thanks I will take a look over there...

Couple things...run the unit as a fluid coupling on the converter rather than having the 1-1 ratio in 3rd & 4th (this means a non lu converter) ( so use the non lock up shaft and a non lock up converter?)
You will be happy with a transgo-2 kit.....it uses the reverse low boost valve circuit to raise line pressure in the lower ranges, giving you more holding power and firmer upshifts. Aod are common to wear the pressure regulator bore in the v-body...several up graded replacement valves available along with o-ringed end plugs are available. (Got them :bigthumb
Running the low ratio planet will raise your wot 1-2 & 2-3 up shifts to very high rpms....7200+...be careful which governor valves you use in the transgo kit.
Change the rev drum to a mechanical diode style drum. You will break the sprag style. (Is this included in the ford motorsports kit? As this is what i am using.) Use the spiral snap ring they offer to hold the sprag on.
Run a 9.5" converter made for your application.
Using a quality gasket set, proper filter(easy up grade is to install a 4x4 pan & filter), checking all clearances, changing the reverse drum and intermediate pressure plate to a 4 cl , replace all torringtons, the low roller, reverse band, upgrade the 2-3 acc piston....install a 4th gear acc assy if it does not have one (certain later years eliminated the 3-4 acc). Buy the alto power pack with kolenes for the direct...run bw friction in fwd & rev drums...high energy & kolenes in intermediate... (done:bigthumb
Watch the bleed hole on the 2nd gear piston (see service manual. )
They make a nice replacement low energizer spring to deal with case wear...
You will need a hardened input...... ( I have a pencil type tci and a solid non lock up type...... best one to use?)
Personally I would recommend a 4r70w and buy a compushift controller....but it sounds like your knee deep now...plus the total $ spent is quite higher if you have to buy a controller....everything else is about the same in cost with the aode/4r7ow being slightly cheaper...

Thanks for all the input