am i screwed....again?

redwing89

redwing89

Club Member
doesnt seem like i have luck at all with cars... and im very dissapointed.

looks like the engine i got has had a bit of moisture build up in it. i pulled the heads off of it and i found this

2011-01-28_00-42-03_608(1).jpg


this is cylinder #3, and its the only cylinder so far with any type of rust on it.... i havent pulled the other head yet, but i can turn the crank and it rotates fully.

what can i possibly do to get this rust off? im not sure yet if it is pitted in the cylinder wall. but it looks pretty evil.
 
also i found another thing interesting, this piston top was completely clean, when the others have carbon buildup on them. isnt that an indication of water in the engine?
 
well from what i can tell, the clear spots in between the rust that i first thought were pits, are actual parts of clean cylinder wall that just dont have rust on them. so this is surface rust for sure. what kinds of things can i use to remove the surface rust... i know flex honing is an option, but isnt there can solvents i can buy that will remove a good amount of rust? im trying not to ruin the cross hatch so i dont want to use steel wool or sandpaper, even though ive read that some places. one of my friends even told me just to run the engine and change the oil a couple times so particles dont contaminate the bearings
 
I've cleaned this a few different times in cylinders. I used to blow a lot of head gaskets and then let the car sit til I could get time.

Soap-less fine steel wool and WD-40 can make it mint again.
 
okay ill give it a shot. i called my local hardware store, they said they have different fine-nesses id have to check which one i would need. so which # fine ness will i need?

since the piston is still in the cylinder, my plan of attack is shoving a rag in the bottom of the cylinder, and spraying it out with an air chuck so no particals fall in...
 
I just used the standard kind that people use for dishes. Try it, I guarantee it will work sweet. The wd40 is more important than the brillo pad, but the combination of both of them and some elbow grease will do it.
 
well i tried the steel wool doesnt look like it wants to come off to well i got really fine steel wool though, i think ive decided to just use this engine and rebuild the whole thing
 
well my can of wd40 ran out of compressed air, so i poked a hole in it, turned the crank to where that rust started, and poured a whole shit load of wd40 and its puddled up in the cylinder. im going to let it soak overnight and ill see what comes off tomorrow. it would be nice if i could use this engine then i wont have to worry about doing anything with my other one... but at least i know that one runs lol.

also there is a small nic right on the top of the first piston's cylinder, right where the gasket sits on it. im not sure if its big enough to affect anything but i dont know if it will let coolant in the engine. its about as big of a nic as maybe the corner of a sheet of paper
 
redwing89 said:
i dont know... i cant really tell because of the color of the rust if the cylinder has any pits in it. if the rust ate a pit into the cylinder then im screwed.
Click to expand...
screwed as in having to rebuild it? Your talking about rebuilding it anyways. I would have tossed it in after you got it without pulling the heads, primed it, and then drove the shit out of it. Then- if it needed to be gone through, drop it off to Phil at Superior and have him rebuild it.
Or I guess you guys can keep buying motors. lol
 
ive done what raj said a million times, fresh soapless brillo pad and wd40 always worked perfect. however as everyone else said, it will also clean its self after running once.
 
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