furian76
Forum Member
Sadly, before anything was done to it, it was running flawless. Just slowish.
Advice - Regarding my Build
- Thread starter furian76
- Start date
Sadly, before anything was done to it, it was running flawless. Just slowish.
mustangmike6996
Club Member
Not too related but how do you like the MPVI2? I've been thinking about getting one to do a PATS delete on my Standalone PCM.
furian76
Forum Member
I’d probably like it a lot more if I knew how to use it to tune my car. But the hardware is top notch. Software is very in depth and free to download. Their help forum is very active as well.
furian76
Forum Member
Following some advice I received, I decided to try and squeeze in and around my vehicle and see if anything looks or feels out of place.
1. Hose going from intake to vacuum block was zip tied, but loosely on the vacuum block side. I could use my pinky to slide it off with little effort. It was kind of cocked sideways. Put clamps on both sides to secure it.
2. while it turned out not to be a gapping hole like it felt, I do have an exhaust leak where the down pipes meet the new exhaust. the flanges are not the same size and don't fully seal. There is about an 1/8" sliver gap that's about 2 inches long that is puffing out pressure. I thought maybe the bolts were loose, but I tried tightening them and it's definitely just a bad fit. I am going to see if I can get or make a gasket for that this weekend.
Other than those 2 things, Nothing seemed loose or had any visual indicators that something was wrong. Although, I will be asking about things on my purchase list that aren't on my vehicle. Like the boost controller.
1. Hose going from intake to vacuum block was zip tied, but loosely on the vacuum block side. I could use my pinky to slide it off with little effort. It was kind of cocked sideways. Put clamps on both sides to secure it.
2. while it turned out not to be a gapping hole like it felt, I do have an exhaust leak where the down pipes meet the new exhaust. the flanges are not the same size and don't fully seal. There is about an 1/8" sliver gap that's about 2 inches long that is puffing out pressure. I thought maybe the bolts were loose, but I tried tightening them and it's definitely just a bad fit. I am going to see if I can get or make a gasket for that this weekend.
Other than those 2 things, Nothing seemed loose or had any visual indicators that something was wrong. Although, I will be asking about things on my purchase list that aren't on my vehicle. Like the boost controller.
furian76
Forum Member
In Lexington. Chicken Hawk was recommended based on their results from many of their other builds and people I actually know. It may not be something they did that is causing the issue. But maybe something missed. They contacted me today and said they will redo the exhaust to fix that issue. They are also getting with me tonight to try to do some remote viewing on the scanner. To see if something will explain the lack of performance. Willing to get thoughts on anything at this point. As a side note, the video of the dyno run, sounded way better than how its running right now. In regards to how fast the RPM climb was and the shift was. So not sure.
Rickety on here is in Lexington along with another buddy, they're mustang guys but may be able to put another set of eyes on it.. I'll send them a text.. That exhaust leak is past turbo return right?
WhiteHawk
Club Member
Those dynojets don't load the engine like the road does, unless they have the "Eddy Current load" option. Most shops don't get that on dynojets.
Nick, it sounds like the leak was between the cats and the exhaust housing on the rear mount turbo - where the cat-back would normally attach. It would definitely effect performance.
-Geoff
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furian76
Forum Member
Geoff got it right on the money. The flange behind the cats where it connects to the new piping is where the leak is. And it is ahead of the turbos.
This will be a /facepalm moment if this is actually the cause of all of it. On the upside, the shop did say they would fix it without me asking for them to. I think short term, I may throw a gasket on it until I can get it back down to them. But, with them knowing there is an exhaust leak, they should be able to see that reflected on the scanners I would think.
Also, they said I am running watergate springs since the power level is so low. He said once we build a motor, then you would want to have a controller.
This will be a /facepalm moment if this is actually the cause of all of it. On the upside, the shop did say they would fix it without me asking for them to. I think short term, I may throw a gasket on it until I can get it back down to them. But, with them knowing there is an exhaust leak, they should be able to see that reflected on the scanners I would think.
Also, they said I am running watergate springs since the power level is so low. He said once we build a motor, then you would want to have a controller.
furian76
Forum Member
My OG Tuner, finally took a look at new logs I ran today. He said as soon as he saw the log, I am making zero boost. It's actually in a vacuum. Says there is a major leak somewhere in the intake from the turbos to the TB. Without having them spool up, it's hard to figure out where the leak is. I pulled on everything I could and nothing felt loose. I am going to look around the intake tomorrow to see if maybe it blew a seal or something. I don't hear anything from up front when under load. But this thing is so loud, I can barely hear the turbos. He said it will also cause a lot of the other issues I am having as well because they are linked to the MAP.
mustangmike6996
Club Member
Have you tried a new MAP sensor or tape a vac/press gauge to the windshield and take it for a drive to verify.
WhiteHawk
Club Member
Wow, if there is a leak on the clean air side and the exhaust side, that could be your issue. It would be pretty hard to feel a leak on the clean side at idle too, unlike an exhaust leak, because it wouldn't be pushing a lot of air.
By the way, here is the kind of clamp I always liked - and I pack the shit out of them with copper RTV. You should be able to get one in the exact size you need whether it is smooth or stepped. You can't get them at normal auto parts stores, but I used to get them at the local truck parts store. Summit and Jegs have them too. They are a bitch to get apart once the RTV cures, but they seal pretty good. Just make sure you let them set overnight, because on a boosted system, they will push the RTV out if it is not cured.
-Geoff
You need a boost and fuel pressure gauge in the cabin. I daily an old XR4ti, these are the only two gauges I have that work. I can tell pretty much anything if the gauges don't read what I am used to seeing by just watching these two.
I am not clear on the turbo system that is on this thing, but if you've got a leak on the compressor out side, you can overspeed the turbo and destroy it/them.
FYI, you can't just disconnect the piping from the compressor out that goes to to the inlet of the engine and run it, it'll run like shit and you will for sure damage the turbo/s.
Curious where you're putting copper seal on this clamp? Just a bead around the pipe when you clamp it down?
But yeah, get this kind of clamp, or get some pictures of where you have the leak and post them, then we can see what's going on and guide you with better info.
furian76
Forum Member
SO.... Many purchased tools and parts later, here is what I have found. Honestly, its the dumbest possible things too.
1. Watched a video about how to check for boost leak. Made a home kit adapter that will push 3psi into the system from the filter location.
2. system would not hold pressure and I found a leak at the vacuum block. It was the hose barb that the have setup for a future boost controller. Was too big for the barb and was folded over onto itself and zip tied. $3 later and that leak was fixed. Basically just purchased an actual vacuum cap that was properly fitted and tied it down.
3. Put 3psi back into the system and still not holding pressure. Checked under the hood. Nothing under hood. Followed the hissing sound toward the back. Found it was leaking at the waste gates. I can't fit under the jeep. So $150 later with jack, stands, and blocks, I still cant fit under enough to fix the issue, but it is the vacuum lines going into the waste gate. Either that or the fitting that the vacuum line goes into. Both waste gates are leaking enough that 3psi & 5psi can't build any pressure in the system.
So, Now I am just waiting for him to read my messages to him or check his voice mail. I am thinking I will have him come get it or plan a day for me to come to his shop and wait on it while it gets fixed. That way he can fix the leaks and he can fix the exhaust while he is at it. Or at the very least make a plan to fix the exhaust. On the up side, I am learning a lot about cars. Enough to say they suck. lol.
1. Watched a video about how to check for boost leak. Made a home kit adapter that will push 3psi into the system from the filter location.
2. system would not hold pressure and I found a leak at the vacuum block. It was the hose barb that the have setup for a future boost controller. Was too big for the barb and was folded over onto itself and zip tied. $3 later and that leak was fixed. Basically just purchased an actual vacuum cap that was properly fitted and tied it down.
3. Put 3psi back into the system and still not holding pressure. Checked under the hood. Nothing under hood. Followed the hissing sound toward the back. Found it was leaking at the waste gates. I can't fit under the jeep. So $150 later with jack, stands, and blocks, I still cant fit under enough to fix the issue, but it is the vacuum lines going into the waste gate. Either that or the fitting that the vacuum line goes into. Both waste gates are leaking enough that 3psi & 5psi can't build any pressure in the system.
So, Now I am just waiting for him to read my messages to him or check his voice mail. I am thinking I will have him come get it or plan a day for me to come to his shop and wait on it while it gets fixed. That way he can fix the leaks and he can fix the exhaust while he is at it. Or at the very least make a plan to fix the exhaust. On the up side, I am learning a lot about cars. Enough to say they suck. lol.
WhiteHawk
Club Member
I slather up the joint like crazy first. Until you can barely see the pipes. Put extra around where the bolts sit. Do not slide the clamp on. Just wrap it on and move it as little as possible. Then clamp it. I have had a lot of luck doing that.
-Geoff
Well, this is probably the best way to learn how to figure the stuff out, you'll never forget.
Do you know what type of gate they are?
Does it just have a barb on it like your vacuum tree?
furian76
Forum Member
Tial Sport 000546 Air Fittings 10mm Banjo Bolt is what it looks like. Even after identifying all these leaks, he said none of them seem like enough of a leak to cause the issue I am having. As for the specific gate, I am not 100% sure. Just says 38mm waste gates.
He will be coming to my house to pick up the jeep in a couple of days to fix all of the issues. Honestly, he's a great shop because he will do that. But also feels bad due to the amount of time and issues caused from the install. I am not used to turbo installs or power adder installs at all and this may be a normal thing. But no one talks about it. Or none at least that I have seen. If he is able to address and find all the issues and get me running in the low 12's without issues, I will update you guys on what he fixed to address all of this.
Thanks again for everything as I am sure all of this added to his urgency to fix it.
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