A/C Clutch & Field Coil

[Killjoy]

Guys - 2009 Ford Escape blowing warm air. Freon was checked by Belle Tire and was full. Took it to the dealer today and got jerked around - long story - but do any of you know whether an Escape would throw a code when/if the field coil or compressor clutch had failed? The dealer appeared to do a 30 second assessment of the problem @ 5pm despite having the truck all day and I'm trying to confirm and gain confidence in the dealer's diagnosis. They want $500 to replace the clutch & coil (not the compressor itself) and said there's no guarantees that will fix the problem.

I did try to listen for the compressor to kick in by cycling the AC on/off. I didn't hear much of a difference, but it's also hard to hear and its not my personal car - not sure what the 'normal' sound is.

Does the freon have to be evacuated and compressor removed from the vehicle in order to replace the clutch and field coil? Thinking about DIY - but not 100% sure how involved it is to get the pulled and coil off the compressor. I have the Chilton's manual, but it only shows compressor replacement - not the clutch & coil.

 

[1BADAIR]

check for power at the clutch. Pressure switch may be the problem though. Usually the clutch can be done in the car without discharge. May have to unmount the unit but leave the lines on

 

[Ponyryd]

^Agreed. Engine size may help us help you more though.
Escapes are well known to have a/c failures, do a search and see if you may have a similar issue. I believe it was a failed receiver dryer, and the desiccant end up contaminating the whole system.

 

[Killjoy]

It's a 2009 Escape 2.5L 4 cylinder non-hybrid 4x4. ~105k miles.

Googling hit on several references to the air gap widening over time, and the field coil eventually not being strong enough to engage over the longer distance. Any chance that might be the case here? (this picture isn't from an Escape, but same idea) They recommend removing washers to bring the gap back to the 0.020" spec. In the mean time, I'll try to take a look at whether the clutch is engaging with the key on + AC on (engine off) just to see if the coil is engaging/disengaging like it should. Might be a day or two before I can look - it's not my car.

Compressor P/N: YCC-229
Clutch P/N: YB-3107

 

[Ponyryd]

If it is indeed just the air gap, you can remove the spacers fairly easily, the hub just walks off, it isn't a press fit or anything. What I usually do to diagnose if the gap is too big is turn the a/c on with the car running and apply a little pressure on the clutch with a piece of wood or screwdriver handle. Remember to use light pressure and wear gloves, if the gap is e problem and you just help it a little it should work.