78 caballero

Im, really not that normal... I ended up using heater ducting metal tape to tape off any holes in the rear control arms, then filled them with por15 and sloshed them about, then drained them and painted the outsides
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so two good thick coats of por15 on everything
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nothing left to do today but check back every two hours or so and shoot them with very light mist coats of clear...
 
Looks good. With that POR 15 you'll prolly be good for the next 50 yrs!

Ive never had a problem with the stuff, (other than the sun fade). This is the first time Im trying to clear coat to protect from that.
Ive seen some people have some real wierd issues (chipping flaking peeling) but most of it seemed to result from having too smooth of a surface. Also I think POR changed their forumula. I swear it seemed like the first coat on these parts soaked into the surface. In the past its been alot thicker, perhaps because when I started using it 12 years ago not alot of people knew about it so I got some stuff that had been sitting on the shelf for a while.
 
Got a little bit of work done tonight;
Balljoints and most the bushings installed in the upper and lower front control arms... And got the rear upper control arm bushings then I ran out of lube. The second tube of assembily lube will be here mid next week..
997F49C1-6B2E-4555-AA13-67A5B3D0EB8A-6997-00000D7F02B11063_zpsfe0d8c29.jpg
 
Got a bit of garage time today..
I was able to clean and organize the garage and get the rear end ripped appart...
Btw, here are just some reference pics
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57F9A043-42E4-4660-B7E4-E6C3A56F3252-7442-00000DBC132F139B_zps78595016.jpg

Also little trick for removing ebrake retainer clips, wrap a hose clamp around the clip, tighten it and bang it out with a hammer and screwdriver...
ADF90A88-11D1-4DC7-AEA6-64328813A34E-7442-00000DBC1E472B8D_zps4401b0c3.jpg

I was very suprised to see this
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I never thought it could be a limited slip... I'm starting to think a gear set and disc brake conversion might be a good investment. I don't plan on making much over 375 crank horse for a while...
Any way, after a few hours of work she is ready for cleaning and fresh paint...
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I did a rough ratio check and it looks to be about 3.75:1
 
If you're doing the 99-02 F-body rear discs, you might want to wait before painting the housing - you'll have to figure out how to move the shocks over and I had to weld a brake hose tab to mine on either end for the lines.
 
If you're doing the 99-02 F-body rear discs, you might want to wait before painting the housing - you'll have to figure out how to move the shocks over and I had to weld a brake hose tab to mine on either end for the lines.
Good call, but that's the beauty of por-15... Touches up easy..
Anticipating having to fab lower brackets on it when I airbag it..
 
good bit of luck for me this week...
A buddy has a 2001 ls1 fbody that started developing a noise in the rear end. So he rounded up a replacement and gave me a great deal on his old one. I am going to investigate the possibility of the axle and carrier swap and definitely do the disc swap..
E1FF1046-0A75-43CF-BA41-6374C380EF7A-2897-00000800533B9CD6_zpse074ae2a.jpg
 
Got a little bit of time today away from the honey-do list...
I ripped appart the f-body rear end with no major drama (not bad I thought for never having done it before).
Had an issue with the caballero rear end however, the head on the cross pin set screw stripped out on me. I tried just about every trick I knew till I was left with just one option (in my mind)
I welded an 8mm wrench to the screw head
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Used that to break it loose than snapped the wrech off
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Smoothed out the jagged edges then made a notch in it
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Then used a chisel with the notch I created to turn the screw out, then once I couldn't turn it any more I notched it again and chiseled it more till it came out.

So side by side stack up, you can see by my super calibrated height gauge the f-body axles are clearly longer
D9920528-8CEF-4C61-A5C1-22B5B42FEAF5-3503-000008DA7916ABB8_zps703d94f3.jpg

Ok so perhapse this is a little more acurate
7AB1B813-459B-4708-B269-223309C782E2-3503-000008DA8FCE93FE_zpse7127bc9.jpg

Now to be fare and perhapse a little more scientific, the lugs on the ls1 axles are about 1/4" longer so that makes the tops of these axles about 1/4" higher than the g body ones but that does not account for the differences you see here.
IMO
To use the 4th gen ls1 F-body axles and carrier it would require at least getting the axles cut down and perhapse different bearings.

Next I turned my attention to the differentials.
Here you see the visual comparison between the g-body LSD diff (left) and the f-body open diff (right) they appear dimensionally identical.
F42A551C-4B7C-4AA0-BDC9-EA6AE60D4476-3503-000008DA887CB60C_zps6a1bc44d.jpg

The g-body pinion count was 11 teeth and ring tooth count was 41 which added credibility to the stamping on the pinion that read "11-41-GM"
By my math that gives 41/11=3.727 soo, 3.73:1 gear ratio.
F-body came out to be 12-41 so that gives us 41/12=3.416 so 3.42:1 ratio
Please chime in if my math is wrong here...

That all being said with the thickness differences between the two the ls1 fbody axles are notisably thicker and perhapse would be worth the money and effort, however for me seeing that the ls1 rear end is an open diff with a less desirable rear end, it would not be worth it to me.

So my game plan is to swap over the ls1 brake bits, relocate the G-body shock mounts more inward, relocate spring purches (be evedent why later) than re-assemble the G-body housing with the G-body gears and axles, new seals all around, paint install and run till it pops.

I might entertain the idea of cutting down the axles, swapping ring and pinions,welding the spider gears to make the F-body carrier (now a welded spool) and swapping out bearings where needed, however it would have to be one heck of a deal to cut down the axles.
I am already $125 into this setup, if I get any where close to $500 total it would be more cost effective to get an 8.8 mustang cobra solid rear axle (with disc brakes 373 or 410)

As a disclaimer this is 100% my observations, 0 research has been done to this point, please feel free to ad links to supporting documentation on G-body/F-body hybrid axles..
 
What about 3rd Gen fbody axles? Are the 4th gens wider due to the positive offset wheels they run? Maybe somebody on MIfbody.com has the information handy.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk
 
What you need is f body posi unit 28 spline and a set of stock gn axles and this will work out in your stock rear with the ls1 brakes.either way good luck
 
Meah, Like I said, this one fell into my lap for cheap so if a chep gut swap was usable out of it I would take a stab at her... But since thats not in the cards Im not going to dwell on it. Like I mentioned before, I have seen 373 and 410 mustang solid axle 8.8" posi with disc brakes that will darn near bolt in for $500 or so. I am attempting at this point to just get a good cheap rear disc setup. Im $125 into the ls1 axle, $66 so far into parts (wheel seals, dif cover gasket, and one rotor for mockup). Other rotor will cost another $44 and judging by the lack of movement I was getting out of the caliper pistons a set of rebuilt calipers will be in the near future $45 ea, pads $25, hardwear kit $10....
So, without sourcing axles and carriers Im already looking at $360.
Yeah $140 less than the mustang rear end swap, however depending on the rear end I find I may be in the same boat with the claipers....

If any one is thinking about the ls1 brake swap here is a video series I found
oulines the swap in pain staking detail
http://gbodyforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=41067
I thought it was odd that he was mounting them to the rear of the axle instead of front which is stock on the F bodys...
turns out there is some frame interfearence if you mount the calipers infront of the axle
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So you are better off hanging them off the back side and relocating the shock mounts.
 
well, that was surprisingly easy...
I got all set to weld in new backing plates, I even pulled a favor to have them water jet cut.
Turns out I really didn't need them, but they made great drilling fixtures.
I drilled out the lower two dust cover holes to 3/8"
Bolted one of the plates into place
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Then used the 3/8" drill to make a center mark on the two remaining holes
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Drilled thru using a 1/8" drill and drilled them out bigger with the 3/8", scribed the plate to trim the drum backer plate.
LS backer plates bolted right up (BTW for any one keeping track, I drove out the short caballero wheel studs and replaced them with the LS ones)
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and with some spacers for the lug nuts and the rotor in place it all seemed to line up really well
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Not really perfect alignment but good enough to work...
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Im really amazed how simple this was...
 
Got some more work done on the rear end, cleaned all the inner bits, replaced the wheel seals, pin bolt and cover gasket.
the shock mounts relocated, started by trimming the nubbins
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Fabbed up some 1/4 inch brackets and welded them on
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Then gave it a quick cleaning and drenched it with por15
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Started working on the frame some today.
Started by elongating the two body mount holes. I figured with the frame boxed it would be impossible to get the meal washers thru a hole 1/2" too small
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I'll break out the dremmal and clean it up some
Next order of bus ness was to cut around the spring openings careful to avoid cutting the cross member welds.. I did this so that when I decide to run air bags I can fit a larger diameter on in place
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I then attacked the drivers frame rail. To keep it simmetrical I lopped off the trans mount section
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Then boxed it in with some 16ga plate. I bent the frame sections that suck out in the front and rear inward to join the plate and ran out of welding wire just as I was set to weld in the last filler plate..
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Man, you make it look easy. But I guess if you know what you're doing and have the right tools...and patience, and time, etc., etc.
 
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