351w main bearing question

nickgregg2007

nickgregg2007

Club Member
Im buildin a 351 w, probe forged internals, anyways the rear main bearings dont seem to fit the block, is there something im missing, prolly something stupid but cant figure it out. the bearings seem to skinny.
 
they prolly arn't hydrosized, send em back and get yourself a good set of hydrosized mains maybe a little more pricey but well worth it.
 
Can you take a picture of what you mean? I've never had issues and I've always used regular clevite bearings. The bearing on the rear and all other bearings should be the same except the center thrust bearing.
 
im a little consfused on what you mean too. are you saying they are to thin. as in there is too much clearance between your crank and the bearing. or are you saying they will not cover to whole surface area or the main journals? id duble check the part number and if you can a picture would be helpful as said above.
 
the bearing will not fit into the block the journal is just a little to wide for the bearing to slip over it. I think he figured it out the main was for a newer block and his is a 73 74 ish.
 
2004boss said:
the bearing will not fit into the block the journal is just a little to wide for the bearing to slip over it. I think he figured it out the main was for a newer block and his is a 73 74 ish.
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Sounds like your trying to put the thrust bearing on the rear and its not supposed to go there. It goes on the #3 webbing/cap
 
yea, the bearing isnt covering the whole main journal, i think Igotaneedforspeed is onto something haha, ima have to check that out, i didnt think of that, thnks alot guys. Ill try that stuff, that doesnt work ima take a pic and order some bearings for a 74 block.
 
nickgregg2007 said:
yea, the bearing isnt covering the whole main journal, i think Igotaneedforspeed is onto something haha, ima have to check that out, i didnt think of that, thnks alot guys. Ill try that stuff, that doesnt work ima take a pic and order some bearings for a 74 block.
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if you dont know the thrust bearing goes on number 3 i would suggest having somebody build your motor for you.
 
i would have to agree with quickjohn here. if that is indeed the problem. you may want to have a machine shop help you out on the assembly. the big bearing goes on the third journal as stated a few times here. it slips over the cap/block. the other ones just cover the surface that the crank would otherwise ride against. you need to check the clearances between your bearings and your crank. as well as check the thrust clearance( how much you crank will move front to back)
 
yea, i kno were it goes, jus over looked it, ima build it, i see it as a learning experience, and if i fuck up itll be expensive and ill know not to do that again! haha, but yea if i have some else build it, then how am i ever gonna learn, thanks for all the help tho.
 
johnquick302 said:
if you dont know the thrust bearing goes on number 3 i would suggest having somebody build your motor for you.
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Ahh John it'll be ok, we all started somewhere. I had my dad looking over my work when I was young so I never had any major issues. This web-site is for helping and I think we did that.

nickgregg2007 one book that I read cover to cover before ever touching a SBF was this one. [ame="http://www.amazon.com/How-Rebuild-Small-Block-Ford-Engines/dp/0912656891"]Amazon.com: How to Rebuild Small-Block Ford Engines: Tom Monroe: Books[/ame] It's been years since I looked at it but I think that's the one. Good luck!
 
nickgregg2007 said:
yea, i kno were it goes, jus over looked it, ima build it, i see it as a learning experience, and if i fuck up itll be expensive and ill know not to do that again! haha, but yea if i have some else build it, then how am i ever gonna learn, thanks for all the help tho.
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there is nobody saying you cant have somebody there to show you. or watch over them doing it. when i did my motor the first time i had somebody watching me do it plus i knew where the parts went. you sure you can do all the ring gaps, clearances, deg cam in. if you dont, i would have someoby who is more familiar with it to atleast guide you along.
 
i can dig that man. have a bit of fun and learn something while your doing it. for sure grab a book on overhauling ford motors. itll give you all the specs for the cleances you will need to know and the torque sequences and such.
grab some green plasti-gauge to help check bearing clearances.
and CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN when its clean, clean it again. dishsoap and water... break clean, what every you want. but put a lint free rag threw the cylinders and when it comes out as white as it was when it when in then your good.

im sure u have been told but i figured it wont hurt to hear it again.
 
yea thanks guys for all the info, and i get what ur sayin john, i do havea guy stoppin by everynow and then makin sure im doin it rite, and hes gonna show me how to do the degreeing the cam cuz that i have no idea how to do, but i went and picked up some new bearings this morning cuz i felt like shit and took the day off, popped em in and they all fit, so Im guessing the bearings that came in the package were wrong, and flawed or something which doesnt bother me cuz shit happens. I just wished the company that i bought it thru would call me back i called 5 times in 2 days and no call back. that pisses me off
 
spirolocks suck ass! oh lord are they a pain in the ass haha. good luck with the build and be sure to post pictures and or questions.
 
Sooner or later you will figure out where everything goes, even without someones help or watchful eye. However, if its not very clean before you assemble it, it won't matter how many people you got watching. Keep whiping the bores until you see NO crap transferring from them to the paper towel (DO NOT USE RAGS!!! Especially those shitty red ones). Use ATF to get the bores clean, it works great and after you have wiped the bores over and over again and finally get nothing but a clean papertowel with ATF on it, you are ready. There is no need to wipe any left over ATF from the bores as it will help lubricate the cylinder walls while you are assembling it and during startup. Good luck with the rest of your build.
 
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