What connecting rods for an LT1?

I've got the Crower Maxi-Lite's in my car. I really liked how light they are and crower says they are good for 800HP and for a 6" billet rod they only weight 515g each.

I have the Series 94-3 in my car but there are other ones for more hp.
 
ML94002B3-8 - MAXI-LIGHT #3 CROWERODS SPL-MAT SB CHEVY 6.000/2.125
- $1615.20


Never mind I forgot how much they were. oops.
 
If they are only 515 grams they probably aren't as strong as standard oliver/carrillo/crower etc... If you're only going to make 700rwhp then maybe an eagle rod isn't a bad idea? I would shoot for the L19 bolt upgrades too. Plenty of people are making a lot of power on these without problems... I don't see the point in wasting money on extra strength that you would never use.

ML94002B3-8 - MAXI-LIGHT #3 CROWERODS SPL-MAT SB CHEVY 6.000/2.125
- $1615.20


Never mind I forgot how much they were. oops.
 
Mainly because I've already got other relatively high end parts in the bottom end, might as well seal the deal. Also, reliability is a big factor. I want the thing as reliable as 700+rwhp can be because I intend to drive it all over the place. Plus, I never know when I'll want to upgrade and like Sean said this way I'll be ready.
 
Reliability? An eagle rod properly setup that isn't being pushes past the metals yield strength would last as long as any other rod out there. I'm not a spokesman for eagle as I have switch to Oliver Billets myself but the eagle is a very strong rod. Guys are running 8 second ET's @ 8000 RPM and you want to run to 6,000 rpm. Power doesn't usually kill the rod, RPM's do... Just trying to save you some money because with the options out there is seems as if it's a choice between $400 and $1400.

Mainly because I've already got other relatively high end parts in the bottom end, might as well seal the deal. Also, reliability is a big factor. I want the thing as reliable as 700+rwhp can be because I intend to drive it all over the place. Plus, I never know when I'll want to upgrade and like Sean said this way I'll be ready.
 
The reason I asked about the Manleys is because I thought it was right in the middle of those two price-wise, like $600-$700 a set for the H-beams which I've heard are heavy but quite strong.

I've heard that the Eagles needed more work w/ regards to time spent with setup and machining so some of the cost is recouped there, but I really don't know enough about engine assembly to know whether that's true or not.

When I say reliability, I mean I want to put 5,000 or more miles a year on it if I feel like it. Maybe I have nothing to worry about, I don't know.

Also, it may sound dumb, but I wouldn't mind buying stuff that at least mostly made in America vs. something that's blatantly Chinese.
 
They are probably both very comparable rods... I would choose an Eagle with an L19 over a manley with a 8740 screw though even if price weren't a concern. Check and see how much a Manley is with the ARP2000 or L19 upgrade? Rod bolts are the heart of keeping a rod alive.

The reason I asked about the Manleys is because I thought it was right in the middle of those two price-wise, like $600-$700 a set for the H-beams which I've heard are heavy but quite strong.

I've heard that the Eagles needed more work w/ regards to time spent with setup and machining so some of the cost is recouped there, but I really don't know enough about engine assembly to know whether that's true or not.

When I say reliability, I mean I want to put 5,000 or more miles a year on it if I feel like it. Maybe I have nothing to worry about, I don't know.

Also, it may sound dumb, but I wouldn't mind buying stuff that at least mostly made in America vs. something that's blatantly Chinese.
 
lol, I know Nick. Sorry about that. I was a lot busier this weekend than I thought I would be. I hosted a last-minute meet for another message board and people came out of the woodwork and it turned out a lot larger than I expected. I'll call you tonight.
 
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