What block

FomocoMofo

New member
Looking to build a turbo 347 for my 94. Going to be pushing a lot harder than the 400/400 limit and don't want to put an 1/8" crack down the center of the block (Guessing like 950 @ 20psi). Any experience with blocks handling 20psi ~ ish? This is the build I'm looking at:

Engine 347" SBF (4.125 Bore x 3.25 Stroke)
Heads N-351 (cast iron)
Intake Victor Jr.
Turbo Turbonetics Y2K88
Carburetor CSU 750
Jetting 73/80
Bonnet EV with spacer
Fuel pump Aeromotive Belt Dive
Regulator Aeromotive 132-02
Fuel C-16
Intercooler Young's Air-to-Water
Total timing 24 Deg.
Trans Rossler Powerglide.
Converter 9.5" PTC (4500 stall)
Cam Custom Solid Roller???
 
I'd really advise against build such a large bore SBF. Better to build a 357 3.5 4.0 or 4.100 bore 9.5 deck engine.
 
The older A4 or 302R block will handle 1000 hp. I think that ford also made an alum. version of the 302R. All of these are high $$ pieces though. But if you have deep pockets go for the alum block!

JMO
 
You needed a great crank, rods, and a dart block. A good piston is obvious. Most people are idiots and try to skip here. Suddenly, everything but your intake and valve covers are junk because 1 short block component broke.

A solid short block will (USUALLY) never break if the tune is proper. DO NOT SKIMP in the block.
 
Looking to build a turbo 347 for my 94. Going to be pushing a lot harder than the 400/400 limit and don't want to put an 1/8" crack down the center of the block (Guessing like 950 @ 20psi). Any experience with blocks handling 20psi ~ ish? This is the build I'm looking at:

Engine 347" SBF (4.125 Bore x 3.25 Stroke)
Heads N-351 (cast iron)
Intake Victor Jr.
Turbo Turbonetics Y2K88
Carburetor CSU 750
Jetting 73/80
Bonnet EV with spacer
Fuel pump Aeromotive Belt Dive
Regulator Aeromotive 132-02
Fuel C-16
Intercooler Young's Air-to-Water
Total timing 24 Deg.
Trans Rossler Powerglide.
Converter 9.5" PTC (4500 stall)
Cam Custom Solid Roller???



You can easily do this with an old A4, R302, or dart block. If you're going to use an A4, definitely get it sonic tested. The older ones can be bored more than the later ones. My motor is an ancient circle track A4 that's been scattered a few times and has eagle rods and crank. It's held up great and I've put a lot to it.

I'm with Sean or the Dart block. Nothing with 4 head bolts per cyl.

All the SBF blocks are 4 head bolts per cyl except the world block, etc, which require specific head castings. As long as it's a good strong aftermarket block with 1/2" head studs, it will be ok.
 
You can easily do this with an old A4, R302, or dart block. If you're going to use an A4, definitely get it sonic tested. The older ones can be bored more than the later ones. My motor is an ancient circle track A4 that's been scattered a few times and has eagle rods and crank. It's held up great and I've put a lot to it.



All the SBF blocks are 4 head bolts per cyl except the world block, etc, which require specific head castings. As long as it's a good strong aftermarket block with 1/2" head studs, it will be ok.

I stand corrected. I would just build a Chevy. :naughty1:
I like the 5 bolts per cyl but World is a real shit company IMO.
I'd use a Dart block, ARP head studs, and MLS or Cometic gaskets.
Not sure about o'ring the heads with the MLS but I would look into that also.
 
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The world block has made a ton of power. Some of the early ones had issue in 2800hp + type applications but I belive they revised the cylinder design after that. I would contact them. I belive the issue where in a large bore block at like 4.100+ and the walls split between the cylinders. Not sure on the specifics but heard about it happening to a few racers.

The Dart blocks are CGI iron and the Worlds are Gray Iron but I think they are now offering CGI iron Ford blocks now as well.

for a 1800+ hp motor the world block does offer the 6 bolt head option. I have no idea if those heads are any good but they might be.

The dart is also very proven but with a big turbo the headgasket will become maintenance items at 2000+ hp.

as for the A4 block. Its a bit thin in spots and the dart is roughly the same cost " the FMS block requires lifter bore prep work which makes the cost between the dart and the FMS the same" as the FOMOCO blocks so why not get into something with superthick decks,cylinders,mains and all around beefeir then FOMOCO racing stuff.
 
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