Welded rear ends...

darkhorizon

Forum Member
The setup I am using doesnt have a LSD rear end available for less than $1800, so I have considered welding one of the 3 stock ones I have laying around.

Aside from the "cant turn" issues (i can deal with that), what other downfalls would I have from doing this? Should I just not worry about it and learn how to do a burnout?

No I am not going to try to be a drifter or anything... I am looking to run in the low 11's and 1.5 60's on 8 inch street slicks.
 
The setup I am using doesnt have a LSD rear end available for less than $1800, so I have considered welding one of the 3 stock ones I have laying around.

Aside from the "cant turn" issues (i can deal with that), what other downfalls would I have from doing this? Should I just not worry about it and learn how to do a burnout?

No I am not going to try to be a drifter or anything... I am looking to run in the low 11's and 1.5 60's on 8 inch street slicks.

i wouldn't recommend it, but i have been running a welded rear end (ford 8") for 5-6 years now w/ no issues (yet) i know it will break sooner or later, my car dont make much power but i am sure it will make a mid 11 sec pass and it dead hooks with spray on the street, i have a 9" going in it this year to keep it safe though
 
i know people running a welded rear in there mud trucks with big blocks and 44"+ tires... they cant turn worth a s#@t but it works... on road or off... my trail truck will be welded front and rear when its done and see some street driveing...
 
I wonder how absolutely bad I will be able to turn.... Like what sort of things do you really not like to do when you have a welded diff?

Like for example does it only suck if you are pulling in and out of parking spots, or does it suck for that, and turning corners on the eway at 70mph?
 
The setup I am using doesnt have a LSD rear end available for less than $1800, so I have considered welding one of the 3 stock ones I have laying around.

Aside from the "cant turn" issues (i can deal with that), what other downfalls would I have from doing this? Should I just not worry about it and learn how to do a burnout?

No I am not going to try to be a drifter or anything... I am looking to run in the low 11's and 1.5 60's on 8 inch street slicks.



ummm what kinda car is it there is no way you can't put some kinda lsd in it for a few hundred bucks sound slike your trying to hack it
 
2.11 REAREND
Welded spider gear rearends prohibited . Four-wheel-drive permitted in all ET cars running 12.00 seconds (*7.50) or slower. Aftermarket axles and axle-retention device mandatory on 10.99 (*6.99) or quicker ET cars; also mandatory on any car (regardless of class or ET) with a spool.
 
Last edited:
Its a FWD trans, and a spool type diff is very expensive, and Its impossible to use a friction LSD.

I dont think I would be going to the track very often, and it would be the absolute last thing I would break.. every part in my junk transmission would explode before the diff would.
 
DON'T WELD A FWD DIFF!!! or the front diff of a 4x4 that will ever see pavement. You will not be able to turn and you will break something. When you turn one wheel rotates more than the other and the difference needs to equal out somewhere...like the diff. If you take that out of the equation then that difference has to go somewhere. That's why 4x4 guys will use a spool out back and a locer in the front. When they off-road they lock the front because the tires are able to slip on the mud and dirt, but when they hit the pavement the unlock the front so they can steer again and not destroy the front axle and tires. The reason the LSD is so expensive is because you need that slip when you turn but it will also lock for those stright line pulls.
 
Back
Top