Trying to untangle the web, ie desmog my 73 lincoln 460

cjmatt

Club Member
Im FINALLY getting around to doing the intake/carb swap on my 73 Lincoln. I kept putting it off, but the carb has been running pretty crappy lately, Rich idle, hesitation off the line, etc. so I figure itd be a good time to upgrade rather than try and fix the smogger carb on her now. ANyhow, the intake manifold on this thing has got about 4-5 solenoids and about 6-8 vacuum hoses that all run to a bunch of places, EGR, the folgers coffee cans on the fenders, etc. I wanna simplify whatever I can while Im in there, but dont want to mess up any of my heating and A/C circuit. Does anyone know what solenoids do what? in particular the one on the passenger side valve cover pictures and the 3 with vacuum connections up near the thermostat housing?

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Those setups are a nightmare. Just looking at the pictures I couldn't tell you what those all do, but I could probably eliminate most of it for you if I gave you a hand.

The one unit on top of the water neck is a thermostatic valve that allows vacuume to flow at a certain coolant temp (looks like it goes to your vacuume advance)

The valve in the last picture looks like it's the valve for the EGR.
 
my goodnes. i'd just rip it all off lol and start over removing what you don't want.

Prob vacum door, vacum advance, and coolant flow control an thats it. cruise if it has it is all i'd hook back up
 
ahh the joys of early 70's smog vehicles. Shit can all of it. make sure you keep the canister and a check valve routed to the climate control vacum source. Otherwise everytime you crack the throttle the HVAC control will do some odd stuff.
 
ahh the joys of early 70's smog vehicles. Shit can all of it. make sure you keep the canister and a check valve routed to the climate control vacum source. Otherwise everytime you crack the throttle the HVAC control will do some odd stuff.
yeah, ive been told i need to keep the folgers cans on the fenders. one controls the HVAC and the other controls my headlight doors.

I dont plan on getting rid of anything just yet, im going to unhook all the lines and cap them, run just a direct line from the distributor to porrted vacuum on the carb, and call it a day. ill save all the lines and hook them back up as needed other than HVAC and headlights
 
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hahaha yeah. a simple desmog has me torn down to bare heads right now. im debating pulling the whole motor out and cleaning it up.
dont pull the motor!!!! its not worth it and will be apart forever!

i do think you should do cam and heads though :sagrin:
 
dont pull the motor!!!! its not worth it and will be apart forever!

i do think you should do cam and heads though :sagrin:
itd be easier to pull the motor and do the cam and heads on an engine stand than itd be to do them in car. i can get to all the trans bolts from up top on this thing hahahaha
 
good grief what a nightmare.

my dad said he took 50 pounds of shit out of my moms old firebird back in the day... may have been an exaggeration, but what a mess all that is. Carbs are not gonna burn clean, period.
 
good grief what a nightmare.

my dad said he took 50 pounds of shit out of my moms old firebird back in the day... may have been an exaggeration, but what a mess all that is. Carbs are not gonna burn clean, period.


Huh? Whats wrong with carbs... Its proven they almost always make more peak power than EFi set ups n/a. The people that say they don't work and drivablility isn't there are the people who shouldn't be alowed to tune them cuz they have no clue wtf there doing.
 
Huh? Whats wrong with carbs... Its proven they almost always make more peak power than EFi set ups n/a. The people that say they don't work and drivablility isn't there are the people who shouldn't be alowed to tune them cuz they have no clue wtf there doing.

i never said there is anything wrong with carbs nor they cant make power... i said they arent gonna burn clean AKA agree with emissions standards (the point of all that shit). Carbs by nature are very linear in their adjustability compared to EFI.
 
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