Torque converter questions

Jdubb

Jdubb

Club Member
I have a 4l60e with a yank 3200 in it. If I'm cursing the car under 3200 what is happening to the converter? Slipping? Causing damage?

This aftermarket converter stuff is new to me. I'm mostly concerned with expressway driving. The car won't be and don't want it to turn that type of rpm's.
Thanks for the help.
 
It will technically be slipping, which will be generating heat. Just run a good trans cooler, and put it in a place it will be able to get air. I used a 4500 for years and drove down the freeway at 55mph almost every weekend.
 
As the Camaronmann said it will be technically slipping. It will make the connection to the trans but it will slip a bit. Agreed, use a trans cooler. Another thing that you will see is that if you are not revving the engine high when the trans shifts you may not feel it or see a significant drop in RPMs.

Bottom line is that it will drive a little differently but it will be fine. You can drive it with no problems.
 
Non Lock Up's are rare.
99% chance its a Lock up.
Once you reach a certain speed/temperature/desired throttle opening/map sensor reading your vehicles computer will command the lock up clutch inside the converter on.
When this happens, your engine & transmission make a 1 to 1 connection like a stick shift, and the converter no longer generates heat.
Even with the converter unlocked, the design of a 245mm is very friendly for street cruising and do not generate much heat.
 
Would a non locking unit be best for all out power over a locking one? Or would the benefit of a unlocking unit just be not worth the initial cost if its more costly over a locking piece?
 
Every application is different. Predominantly the reason for going to a non lock up is because the vehicle is primary/only used for drag racing. In some applications racers use lock up to try to gain mph, but with some of the converter designs out there today its not necessary.... they have very high hp vehicles mph the same as a clutch. I cannot think of a application under 750+ hp as to why one would eliminate it.
Cost between the two is minimal.
 
Beigg said:
Would a non locking unit be best for all out power over a locking one? Or would the benefit of a unlocking unit just be not worth the initial cost if its more costly over a locking piece?
Click to expand...

Lock up converters were banned years ago by the NHRA. I don't know if they are still banned by them or not. Buy some ADRL or Pro Extreme cars(pro mods) are starting to use lockups again. These converters are hella expensive. Some I've seen are tipping $10,000. Neal Chance seems to be a big player in lock up's right now.
 
I didn't want to assume that. Good that they've came around with being indifferent for reliability .
 
Detroit Gearbox said:
Non Lock Up's are rare.
99% chance its a Lock up.
Once you reach a certain speed/temperature/desired throttle opening/map sensor reading your vehicles computer will command the lock up clutch inside the converter on.
When this happens, your engine & transmission make a 1 to 1 connection like a stick shift, and the converter no longer generates heat.
Even with the converter unlocked, the design of a 245mm is very friendly for street cruising and do not generate much heat.
Click to expand...

This is the exact point I was trying to get at. Thanks for the technical explanation. I really didn't feel like typing all that on my phone.


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