Swapping to Ford 9" ends on my 8.8" ?'s

Boomer!

Boomer!

Club Member
I have the Strange axles with c-clip eliminators with strange rear brakes. I was planning to install 9" ends but was unsure of what to do with my current parts. Are they in any way interchangeable ? Do the ends have the same bolt pattern/bearing size ? Will I be able to reuse my caliper bracket ? Any advice is appreciated, first time I am doing this and don't want to mess up.....
 
New caliper brackets will be needed. Bearing is different because you won't use c clips eliminators.
 
I have aerospace brakes and was able to re-use everything. If I remember correctly, there are two different ends you can buy, one with the same flange bolt pattern as an 8.8. I had Todd at Reiters do mine...sponsor here.
 
NVR2FST said:
I have aerospace brakes and was able to re-use everything. If I remember correctly, there are two different ends you can buy, one with the same flange bolt pattern as an 8.8. I had Todd at Reiters do mine...sponsor here.
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I thought they sold them with the 8.8 pattern. I am capable of handling a job like this, I just wanted to hear the advice of others that have done the swap. Internet searches have pulled up some pretty good info, but i can't believe everything on the internet..lol
 
NVR2FST said:
I have aerospace brakes and was able to re-use everything. If I remember correctly, there are two different ends you can buy, one with the same flange bolt pattern as an 8.8. I had Todd at Reiters do mine...sponsor here.
Click to expand...

He said he wanted a 9'' end, not a 9'' end with 8.8 pattern. My question is why would you stay with a 8.8? Look how close together the bolts are in comparison to a big Ford!!! Also, look at down the road regarding brake selection...far more for a big Ford than a 8.8. What is another 75 for the new brackets? That is just my opinion.


Boomer! said:
I thought they sold them with the 8.8 pattern. I am capable of handling a job like this, I just wanted to hear the advice of others that have done the swap. Internet searches have pulled up some pretty good info, but i can't believe everything on the internet..lol
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See above. I believe MW has on their site still pics of the ends with the measurements...if you go with a 9'' bearing housing end why not upgrade the bolt size and spacing?
 
Pwraddr said:
He said he wanted a 9'' end, not a 9'' end with 8.8 pattern. My question is why would you stay with a 8.8? Look how close together the bolts are in comparison to a big Ford!!! Also, look at down the road regarding brake selection...far more for a big Ford than a 8.8. What is another 75 for the new brackets? That is just my opinion.

See above. I believe MW has on their site still pics of the ends with the measurements...if you go with a 9'' bearing housing end why not upgrade the bolt size and spacing?
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I think I kept the 8.8 spacing on my race car because it already had the strange brakes, and I couldn't see having to upgrade to another kind of brake ever. I kept the 8.8 spacing on my street car because the stock drum brake junk went right back on it.
 
Fryguy302 said:
I think I kept the 8.8 spacing on my race car because it already had the strange brakes, and I couldn't see having to upgrade to another kind of brake ever. I kept the 8.8 spacing on my street car because the stock drum brake junk went right back on it.
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Makes good sense.

I just think that if you are going to spend the money why not spend a little more!! I know, I am ANAL.

On a street car, I agree especially if you are running the stock brakes. After all, on a street car it really only makes sense to do it to stop the leaks of the c clip eliminators. You agree?

Like the Detroit Racing site, started a thread last night!!!!
 
Pwraddr said:
Makes good sense.

I just think that if you are going to spend the money why not spend a little more!! I know, I am ANAL.

On a street car, I agree especially if you are running the stock brakes. After all, on a street car it really only makes sense to do it to stop the leaks of the c clip eliminators. You agree?
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I totally agree with you, my street car will be really slow so the stock brakes will be fine. The rear had to get narrowed because I bought the car with one wheel tub cut out of it :lol: kind of unique circumstance and probably the only truly low budget car that has mini tubs in it.
 
:cheers:
Fryguy302 said:
I totally agree with you, my street car will be really slow so the stock brakes will be fine. The rear had to get narrowed because I bought the car with one wheel tub cut out of it :lol: kind of unique circumstance and probably the only truly low budget car that has mini tubs in it.
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Laughing...I thought I remembered that someone bought someones project with a tub already cut out!!! I guess it was you!

I would love to see your car sometime, maybe this summer. I really only know a couple people on the board. When I got married, my wife started on me about building another car....so here I am!!

Do you run a Mcdonalds or what is the joke if there is one???

Regards,
Keith
 
Thanks for the responses, I have it pretty much figured out. I am going to assemble it and see if I can narrow the housing by 1" as well. I have someone that is going to show me how to cut the axles and get the splines recut. It is something I always wanted to do and things are starting to look better so maybe we will get out for some passes after i get the new engine together.
 
couple things boomer,
welding the tubes with nickle rod to the center section, adding support bars to the tubes and adding 9" ends are the way to go. Make sure someone uses the proper equipment to check the straightness of the housing. No welding can be done after the ends are on and final straightness of the housing is completed. Use timken set 20 wheel bearings. do not use green brand ball bearings. they suck, and do not hold up well at all.
using studs instead of bolts for the caps is a nice upgrade, and either a TA cover or machined billet cap on the left side will be needed for higher hp applications.
Hope this helps.
 
Detroit Gearbox said:
couple things boomer,
welding the tubes with nickle rod to the center section, adding support bars to the tubes and adding 9" ends are the way to go. Make sure someone uses the proper equipment to check the straightness of the housing. No welding can be done after the ends are on and final straightness of the housing is completed. Use timken set 20 wheel bearings. do not use green brand ball bearings. they suck, and do not hold up well at all.
using studs instead of bolts for the caps is a nice upgrade, and either a TA cover or machined billet cap on the left side will be needed for higher hp applications.
Hope this helps.
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Thanks, the rear is pretty well set up currently. Tubes have been welded, studs and cover are taken care of. I am in the process of making supports from the center section to the axle tubes. I plan to hit this car harder than ever and would just like a little extra insurance. I was going to keep the axle ends but since I have decided to narrow it I figured the upgrade was wise.
 
Boomer- If the axles are Strange, I can almost guarantee that you won't have to re-spline. The Strange ones normally have like 3" of spline, so you can easily chop 1" off per side without re-splining.
 
Pwraddr said:
Just a question: Why are you only going to narrow it one inch?
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That is all I need, I plan to run a little wider and taller tire this season. I need to make sure I have a little extra clearance on the lip.



$150 in parts + free labor is cheaper than a new set of wheels.
 
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Fryguy302 said:
Boomer- If the axles are Strange, I can almost guarantee that you won't have to re-spline. The Strange ones normally have like 3" of spline, so you can easily chop 1" off per side without re-splining.
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Thanks for the heads up Raj. I didn't pay attention this last season when I had it apart for the gear swap but I pretty sure your right. If all goes well it will be out hopefully running as good if not better than last season with less cubes, if I can have it back together by then..
 
Boomer! said:
I have the Strange axles with c-clip eliminators with strange rear brakes. I was planning to install 9" ends but was unsure of what to do with my current parts. Are they in any way interchangeable ? Do the ends have the same bolt pattern/bearing size ? Will I be able to reuse my caliper bracket ? Any advice is appreciated, first time I am doing this and don't want to mess up.....
Click to expand...


You cant use the C clip eliminator axels with 9'' ends the axels are machiened for the eliminators not for 9'' big bearings, and I would not use nickle rod for welding the cast section to the tube unless your familiar with it, it will crack if not welded properly!
 
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