Sub Frame Connector Questions??

jtproudmarinedad

jtproudmarinedad

Forum Member
I am doing my subframe connectors and I have a few questions & concerns. I am going with through the floor connectors, I cut out the opening for the rear subframe & I removed the rear floor pan. There seems to be about an 1 1/4" difference in height and a 3/4" difference from side to side from front subframe to rear subframe. :headscrat Is this right and how do I correct the difference? For the connector''s I have a bunch of size option's to choose from I have 2"X2" 2"X3" and 2"X4" also have 1 1/2"X3" all 1/8" wall tubing. Which would be best suited? it will be seeing a lot of track time.
Thanks
JT
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The height difference is normal, but you need to put the connectors inside the frame-not butted against it like the pics shows. You really should have left the floor in place and just cut a path for the connectors-the floor is structural and will need to be welded back together well. I'd use 2x3 if it will go inside the rail, but you may need to go 2x2.
 
I guess what I'm getting at is it's not a straight shot, so I will have to offset the connector down and over? Or is it a structural problem that has to be dealt with?
The floor was shot on the driver side I need a new floor pan,
I just have that peice of 2X2 as a reference to the difference & for measuring purpose's. I will be about 8-10" back into the rear sub and I will lay the whole length of the front sub on the inside.
 
There is an offset cross car and of course vertical between front and rear structures. Me personally, i'd mock up a connector for the driver and passenger sides, then have a one-piece 2x3 manderal bent to the shape of the mocked up connector.

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More pictures HERE
 
monster. said:
There is an offset cross car and of course vertical between front and rear structures. Me personally, i'd mock up a connector for the driver and passenger sides, then have a one-piece 2x3 manderal bent to the shape of the mocked up connector.

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More pictures HERE
Click to expand...

If there is any concern about the integrity of the offset you could always plate over the seam to increase the strength. I was thinking of doing the mandrel bending but buy the time you pay someone to do it you could make a structural plates for less time and hassle (unless you have a bender of course).

Monster, thanks again for all the pictures and information you posted in my thread. I will post up pictures of everything in my project post as I make progress.
 
Boomer! said:
If there is any concern about the integrity of the offset you could always plate over the seam to increase the strength. I was thinking of doing the mandrel bending but buy the time you pay someone to do it you could make a structural plates for less time and hassle (unless you have a bender of course).

Monster, thanks again for all the pictures and information you posted in my thread. I will post up pictures of everything in my project post as I make progress.
Click to expand...

No problem bro,

I thought about the mandrel bending, what I was going to do is even mock it up with wood, take it to an exhaust shop and it would be 4 bends two vertical direction and two cross car.

I know for a fact Diamond the fabricator could bend that tubing in a half an hour, and come within a +/- a few millimeters.

Either way, through floor subframes are the way to go.

All the best!

Dave
 
Thanks guys
mandrel bending would be cool but I'm over spending the budget as it is. I will be using the 2X3 tubing will update as I go along.
JT
 
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