I am looking to buy a gbody most likely a monte carlo. I want to have it as a daily that can also drag. I am looking to make it a 12 second car (give or take a second) problem is I am trying keep it as cheap as possible. So far I am thinking a 383 with a 700r4 trans and 3.73 gears. How much power do you think the car would need and do you think 3.73 can do it or would it be easier/cheaper with 4.11. It will be a full interior car most likely no A/C. Key is fast, cheap and N/A, I'm open to all suggestions I am really itching to build a car but don't really have the bank account, only got a few grand to work with here. Thanks
Street/drag car open to all suggestions
- Thread starter 215muscle
- Start date
twotwoturbo
Club Member
5.3 or 6.0 engine
MarkVIII93
Forum Member
LS anything basically
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ShadowRuleZ
Club Member
The stock 7.5 is a weak link, you're going to be looking for a 8.5" out of a turbo buick (3.42) or a 442/hurst olds (3.73) for a factory option or your choice of aftermarket.
4 cam tbird
Club Member
Even if you were going old school small block, I don't think something like a 383 is really the budget way of going about it.
Thank you all for the suggestions of a ls but I want to keep it carb. Easier to work on and less wires. I know I have to change out the rear but i don't know what to go with I did give the 8.5 a thought but I don't have the gearing of what I want down yet to make that decision. Also to clear things up 383 stroker not 383 dodge
mikesfastss
Club Member
Carbed ls would be the easiest cheapest route, if you can afford it go efi, if your gonna daily it go 373 gear. Unless your going to use an overdrive then go 4.11 good luck and post up pics.
RacerX
Forum Member
Old school what? Body or drivetrain?
lone racer
Club Member
On a tight budget will need a lot of planning to ensure you can do what you want without blowing the real budget or ending up with a garage full of what was a car that you lost interest and money in. Give yourself a real chance to do this by making informed decisions, it's a big deal knowing what to do and a bad deal guessing as you go.
I think 78-80 monty and regal, some had aluminum hood and trunk lid options so that's something to make note of! there's a bunch of Factory upgrades you can find at junk yards and pull-a-parts like f/r away bars and front sub frame braces!
Them 8.5's are expensive! I used a newer 7.625 s-10 posi with new stronger gear set and a custom fit spacer(NOT a crush sleeve)that alone helps 7.5 big time! The 7.625 has 2 more spline and is same as gn's thicker stronger axles but needed to be shortened a hair(grinder) and c clips needed massaging to fit but it held up compared to the 3 stock 7.5's i destroyed previously. I had the ring and pinion shop install the gears and carrier because that's what they do and it's a huge deal that it's done correctly, add a aftermarket cover with built in main cap support and top quality lube. It did cost around 550 total but I was happy and it lasted unlike the factory pieces. No it's not as strong as a 8.5 but can handle a build like this with a sorted suspension(no wheel hop issues) problem free. And there are other options, take the time and find this info then make a informed decision. Time is in your hand not money!
The best thing I did was gut the car and throw out all factory soundproofing and carpet, coat the inside with spray cans of truck bed coating then install a material of your choice. I saved about 40lbs alone and interior noise was same or better. Factory front seats/bench are massively overweight, do your build a favor and get something lighter because there was a 45lbs + savings there.
The weight is a key factor and there are many many ways to lighten up without spending a lot of money.
I think 78-80 monty and regal, some had aluminum hood and trunk lid options so that's something to make note of! there's a bunch of Factory upgrades you can find at junk yards and pull-a-parts like f/r away bars and front sub frame braces!
Them 8.5's are expensive! I used a newer 7.625 s-10 posi with new stronger gear set and a custom fit spacer(NOT a crush sleeve)that alone helps 7.5 big time! The 7.625 has 2 more spline and is same as gn's thicker stronger axles but needed to be shortened a hair(grinder) and c clips needed massaging to fit but it held up compared to the 3 stock 7.5's i destroyed previously. I had the ring and pinion shop install the gears and carrier because that's what they do and it's a huge deal that it's done correctly, add a aftermarket cover with built in main cap support and top quality lube. It did cost around 550 total but I was happy and it lasted unlike the factory pieces. No it's not as strong as a 8.5 but can handle a build like this with a sorted suspension(no wheel hop issues) problem free. And there are other options, take the time and find this info then make a informed decision. Time is in your hand not money!
The best thing I did was gut the car and throw out all factory soundproofing and carpet, coat the inside with spray cans of truck bed coating then install a material of your choice. I saved about 40lbs alone and interior noise was same or better. Factory front seats/bench are massively overweight, do your build a favor and get something lighter because there was a 45lbs + savings there.
The weight is a key factor and there are many many ways to lighten up without spending a lot of money.
lone racer
Club Member
Rear suspension is where a lot of attention needs to be addressed, too many options causes over spending and over building the intended purpose.
You need to make a big decision now before you get out of control!
race car OR street car, it can only be one or the other realistically. A street car will most likely do bad at the track as a track car will blow the tires off the line every time on the street.
You need to make a big decision now before you get out of control!
race car OR street car, it can only be one or the other realistically. A street car will most likely do bad at the track as a track car will blow the tires off the line every time on the street.
