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KENNEBELL2.6

KENNEBELL2.6

Forum Member
I NEED to do something to get my car to hook. It has 315 dr hoosiers on it now and it spins like crazy. It has Eibach sport lines on it now. I know thats probably half the problem. What is the first thing I shoud do?
 
KENNEBELL2.6 said:
I NEED to do something to get my car to hook. It has 315 dr hoosiers on it now and it spins like crazy. It has Eibach sport lines on it now. I know thats probably half the problem. What is the first thing I shoud do?
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get rid of the sportlines FIRST and foremost....get some stock springs.
What gear do you have?? how tall is that tire?? what suspension do you have??
 
Are you talking about street traction or at the track?? If you are talking about at the track why don't you use a real tire instead of a DR.

Either way, shocks and springs will help (get rid of the sportlines as you mentioned), but you need to get weight transfer, and to do that you have to loosen up the front end. A set of front struts and coilovers will do you wonders.

My car hooks decent on the street with 315 Hoosiers, but your KB car probably makes more power :(

--Joe
 
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Springs, Struts, shocks, and SUSPENSION, The hoosier and MT drag radials are capable of mid to low 1.20 sixty foot times if the car is set up right and has power!
 
448rwhp and 438rwt. What is the first suspension upgrade I should make. It needs something bad! I think a geo storm might take me out of the hole.
 
If you want the car to hook hard than you have to forget about how it handles.......you can't have your cake and eat it too.

Also, do you have subframes and/or a rollbar/cage to stiffen up the chassis??

--Joe
 
KENNEBELL2.6 said:
I've got sub-frames only and could care less about going through a corner good. Just want it to launch hard.
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Then get rid of the sport lines, get adjustable struts and coilovers (14" 150-175# depending on your cars weight) and adjustable shocks. Also you can keep the stock style springs but go with a much softer rate like Mach 1/Bullitt (250# linear). Get rid of the front sway bar too.

Also once you have adjustment at all 4 corners it will help tremendously to scale the car and set your corner weights.

--Joe
 
Thank you guys for the info. What are the limits of my stock rear end? It has a girdle and 3.55 gear with nothing else?
 
I would imagine the OEM diff will take a shit on you before you snap a 28 spline axle. If it were me I would spend the cash right now on getting your suspension to work. At your power levels (and more) the stock stuff will survive for a while. When the time comes to strengthen the 8.8, save up the appropriate amount of cash and do axles/diff/gears/welding all at once.

Cheap route would be to rebuild the diff with stronger clutches if/when it starts to slip. I know of guys in the 10's on OEM diff's though, so you do have some room to work.

--Joe
 
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