SN95 suspension for drag racing?

KENNEBELL2.6

Forum Member
Trying to see what I can do to improve my 60 and the launch on my car. The front suspension consists of tikico 5 way adjustable coilovers,pa racing k-member, and caster camber plates. The rear has eibach lowering springs and steeda non adjustable upper and lower control arms. Just watched some videos of my car leaving and everything looks great for the first few tenths of the video. The front end comes up and tops out the suspensoin, the back squats slightly, but then the front comes down quickly and the tires spin. Any help? I just want it to go in the 10's and launching like this it went 11.0 @ 130 so im pretty sure tens are right there with a good launch.
 
What setting do you have the front struts on?? If you stiffen it up to settle down how fast end rises (and falls) it should help.

--Joe
 
I have the front as loose as it will go thinking the weight will transfer quicker to the rear. I get what ya mean though. Is there much you can do to rear suspension that will help?
 
I know what pinion angle is but as far as adjusting it I'd have no idea where to start.

its easy, depending on the bushings the PA varies, all solid here and mines set to -2. Like Joe said tighten up the frount and you will be good. Try one click at a time till you find the sweet spot.
 
Adjusting pinion angle does not controll bite. get with Dave At Team Z (sponsor here) and he can help you get the car straightened out. But i would first try tightening up the front a bit and what shocks are on teh rear? may need an adjustable shock out back that;s alot of MPH for an 11.0 that's more like 10.00 range. My car went 1.40 in teh 60 and 10.38 @128.

FWIW pinion angle only dictates the efficiency of the drive line. When all things are straight from the trans to the diff under power you're not climbing the U joints. If theangles are off you suffer power and needlessly beat the u joints by climbing them. You want teh driveline to be as straight as possible while under power. This is whydiffferent bushing packages need different angle settings.
 
Team Z Motorsports said:
Sorry, it does controll bite especially on a stock suspension car. It's used as a controled bind, Most people dont understand how it works only that more negative pinion angle (to a point) creates bite!

Team Z Motorsports said:
Billydroveit said:
I always thought you just wanted the shaft lined so you didn't bind the joints. Thanks for straightening me out. I'm sure anything past -5 degrees would start to cause you to climb the joints though??

yes between -4 and -5 degrees you start to see a drop in MPH due to drive line bind!

Thanks to Dave from Team Z for straightening me out. Sorry guys i was wrong.
 
WOW you dont see that often on the internet! Saying you were wrong! Just earned my respect!

Can't expect respect untill some is given...and i'm not an internet superhero spouting shit i don't have a clue about. If i don't know, i keep my mouth shut, and if i opened it and was wrong i man up and get it right. Thanks Dave! +1 to you.
 
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