Silver Fox 1968 Charger all wheel drive 6 speed build

I did get some work done to it, worked on placing the rack finally. First off all of the front end stuff had to come out. Because of its height, the crossmember braces had to be hacked in half. The drivers side more so than the passenger because of the gear box of the rack

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Then with the rack back in place, I put 1/2 threaded rod thru the mounts so I can make sure the bolts are vertical and this also made it really easy to place the brackets

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Here is the drivers side bracket that I ended up with, its 3/16 plate with 1/8 vertical walls. I placed a stack of washers between the 3/16 pieces to space them out an inch. Of course when they were welded together, I could not get them out. So they got welded in place. I had to clearance the one side of the bracket to fit around the rack

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I read something from Woodward that you should use washers between the rack and mount to spread out the load and also allow some bump steer adjustment. I placed 2 washers between the rack and mount. The housing is magnesium which is pretty cool but obviously needs to be protected

Here is the drivers side bracket in place. The bottom side is unwelded, I want to lift the front of the car up so I can get under there. I need to finish up the crossmember joints to the frame as well as this piece

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The passenger side was much easier because the bolt fell rite on top of that side brace. I put a piece of 3/16 across the tube and another on a small stand to get it up to the rack

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The room it has to live in

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With that in place, I pulled the rack and burned the mounts in for good and drilled the 1/2 hole thru the passenger side. I will put another piece of the bottom of that tube to give the bolt a flat mounting surface. What do you guys think about this mount? I feel like it mite need at least a horizontal plate to brace it further to the crossmember tube. It will obviously see force in a sideways directions and really only the drivers mount is built to do that. The pass side does/will go thru 3 pieces of 3/16 and the 0.120 wall of the tube

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With those done, I finally bolted the rack in place!!

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Unfortunately this then got evicted in favor of better suspension geometry

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I removed the front diff's mounting brackets but while in that process, my grinder gave up the ghost. Since it was 3am, there was no store to open to get another one from. I figured out that one of the power wires had broken inside the cord so its working again with a 1 foot shorter cord but that just about did me in for the night. I did grind those mounts down flush with the tubes tho.

The last thing I did get done was to make a Hemi sized hole in the firewall. I cardboard template over the Hemi gave me this hole, I wanted to tops angled like that because the steering column support is really close on that side. I still need to cut the floors.

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After that, I will get ALL the stuff out from under the car and remove the table. Then I want to strip everything from the car and try to weigh the bare shell. If I can ever get ahold of another ball joint nut, I can then put it all back together and get this car on the ground and see how well the Hemi fits in there. I have decided to get the engine placed then try to fit the front diff back in. Im pretty sure a remote filter is in store for this motor. I had a dream last night that it all fit, so it has to be possible
 
Found your posts in the mod forum. Approved them. You should be all set. And awesome project!
 
Thanks guys, sorry for that double post there. I have another update to put on this. Can I post it myself now? Do i need a higher post count or just less pics? I can abbreviate the posts I put up on here
 
Put it in and if it doesn't show up, I will see it in the MOD forum awaiting approval. I will try to keep up on it. There was nothing in there today so any of the mods would notice it immediately.
 
Very cool build. Also want to say mariners have a damn good high school class b football program. ( you picked a nice city to live in)
 
Thanks a lot guys. I have not been out to watch the local football games but I am also in east china schools, unsure if they are the same. I really do love the town tho, just like living up north but only a 25min ride to work and they do not mind when I am making noise until after the sun comes up. If any of you guys in the area want to check it out sometime, just hit me up

I was able to post up my update, this one is from a week or so ago

I sure did kick my own ass out there in the garage last night. I work nights so I am always awake these hours, I went out there at about 7pm, did not come back inside until 8am except for food twice and I watched a DVR'd episode of Top Gear (the show that led to my downfall). I had pretty ambitious plans for the car so I wanted to get everything done that I possibly could. I only got 1 nut for the ball joints with the lower control arms that I got. I had no luck trying to find a source for a 11/16 ball joint castle nut by itself. I just bought the cheapest k727 joint I could find on ebay, cost me $17 iirc.

I started off with getting everything out and off the car that has collected there over the last 2 years of it sitting on jack stands. I also finally got to pull my table out from under the front end. It looked pretty weird to me sitting like this

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After it was a completely bare shell, I finally got to do something that I have been thinking about for years

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I weighed the bare shell using 300# analog scales under each of the jack stands. You have to use analog ones because a modern digital one will only give you a weight once and for a few seconds then it turns off. I zero-ed the scales with the stands on them. I measured the weight 3 times to make sure that my results were correct. I would put my jack by the stand, lift it off to get the scale to 0 then release. Record the 4 weights then do it again. What I came up with is very surprising and good to know. This bare shell only weighs in at 635 pounds!

Getting that weight was the only reason that I had to take every single thing off the car. After that I spent a few hours putting the front and rear suspension back in. Keen viewers will notice tie rods making their first appearance here. That was about the only fab I did last night. The Woodward rack has 5/8 RH thread studs on the monoball ends. I had to use 3/4 x 3/4 aluminum rod ends for the knuckle side. I got some tube adapters that both fit 1 1/4 0.120 wall DOM and built these up

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Front tires got bolted on for the first time too

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then the rear axle and suspension got placed again. I only have 2 of my 18x10 wheels rite now so the back end got the old rollers that the car came on. Glad I did not get rid of these things! After that there were a few tense moments as the car came closer and closer to the cement. It eventually came in for a nice landing.

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This is sitting at ride height, its roof is 50 inches from the floor

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With the Fox back on the ground for the first time in 2 years, I turned back to other stuff, namely the engine. Because of its height from the ground and placement of the engine, putting the motor in from the top, thru the engine bay and down is not possible. The firewall cut out and cowl is just too low, can't be done....so I got creative

I built this little sled with some all metal casters, 2x4's and 6 inch lag bolts

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That placed the motor at the correct height for when it is sitting in the car. The lag bolts allowed me some adjustment. The sled is much longer than needed so I can also fit the bell housing and transmission onto this

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With that done, I hooked the engine lift back to the front end of the car and picked it up as high as it would go. I could really use a 2 post lift if someone has one to donate!

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Here is the back end of the car at that angle, dam near touching the ground

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The the engine simply got slid into place. I really like these 2 pics

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Then it slowly was lowered back to the ground. It took me an hour or so just because of little mounts of trimming of the floor pans I had to do so this would fit in

Motor, what motor? LOL, not much to see here!

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Ahh, there it is!

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those lag bolts rest on horizontal pads that are cast into the engine block, pretty handy for me

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New avatar pic!

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I laid a fiberglass hood with 6 pack scoop on it that i have. I will not be using this hood tho

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The oil filter is ruining my front driveshaft plans, it will have to go

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and lastly, unfortunately the LCA hits the wheels when they are turned. I will have to cut a bit out of these arms. Will probably use these arms for mock up only then build a jig off them and make my own that will clear everything. With just one wheel on I do get 33 degrees of steering in the other direction when the rack runs out of travel

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I plan to get some more of the trans tunnel cut out tonight, remove a lot of the stock torsion bar crossmember and place the bell housing and transmission
 
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Very cool. How much did you increase the front track width? Looks like quite a bit. Or are the pics deceiving because there's no front fenders? Keep up the good work. My girlfriends parents live in Ira twp. It's a nice area out your way.
 
Thanks guys! sorry, I was out of town for a while

The front track is increased to I think 62 inches but I am not 100% sure on that. The wheels I am running are I think +28 offset which gives me a relatively low overall width. I also increased the wheelbase, I pushed the front wheels 2 inches forward from the stock location. The wheels tuck in rather well, only sticking out about an inch and a half. These shots is with my fiberglass fender just sitting in place. It is resting on the tire

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A turbo or two would be really cool, I am just not sure I will have the room in the end. I will have coilovers sitting in there taking up space as well as ducting for the radiator, it will be going up and out thru the hood. I am also unsure how they would react when the motor shut down to 4cyl's when I am just cruising around down the freeway
 
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