rod bearing ?

redwing89

redwing89

Club Member
i just pulled a rod cap off of my engine, it has stock bearings... they have no oil passage holes in them? but the aftermarket clevite bearings that i bought have holes for oil passages in them.... is this a different design they use?
 
Before anyone says " why didnt you post a sponsor to do this work for the guy?" Phil at Superior is a very patient man. lol
 
i know ive spoke with phil before about my question on the cylinder heads. but i went ahead and replaced my bearings with the ones i had. which a majority of them were worn to the copper.
 
redwing89 said:
i know ive spoke with phil before about my question on the cylinder heads. but i went ahead and replaced my bearings with the ones i had. which a majority of them were worn to the copper.
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at what point did you stop and measure everything for proper clearances ?

You need to stop where you are and get a professional machnist involved.
 
ok well this car has 80k miles... and as far as im concerned this engine ran fine with only small ticking which could be a rod bearing, but most likely was a valve issue with my cylinder heads like i mentioned to phil.

all the bearings had normal wear (exept for one which has a pretty deep scratch on both halfs of the bearing, presumably from the dirt it accumulated after sitting.) and none spun. so i would assume replacing them with standard size bearings will be acceptible. i'm going to pull off my oil pan since i didnt torque the bolts down on the gasket, and im going to remove a couple rod caps and check to see if theres any more scratches on the new bearings or on the crank, because i turned the engine over a good deal by hand, so if theres any damage to the crank, it will surely show itself on the new rod bearings. but i doubt it.
 
one thing i did more research on and am wondering.... are rod bolts torque to yeild? or can you re-torque them and be fine? i was searching up that question on google, and found that rod bolts actually have to be replaced after doing bearings on different cars... but some suggest it's okay if your running it normally (no induction or NOS, etc) i dont plan on revving the piss out of this engine so is it okay? or should they be replaced?
 
With all due respect and NOT to sound like a dick but your assembling a time bomb. Did you have the crank checked ? Check for crank shaft end play ?
Do anything but throw some new bearings at It ? I understand you want or need to get your car running but DoIt right (for the 3rd time) !
 
i will check clearances to be sure. but im almost positive they will be in the reccomended specs due to the condition of the bearings i pulled out. cranks hardly get damaged unless there was a spun rod. its always the bearings that take most of the abuse. so i dont think im hurting anything by just replacing them. its definitely better than running with those worn out bearings i had in there anyways...
 
called superior engine.... phil says plastiguage the journal to bearing cap and rod clearances. if they check out its install and go. and the scratch in my one bearing was most likely from a piece of shit that got in the oil.
 
redwing89 said:
called superior engine.... phil says plastiguage the journal to bearing cap and rod clearances. if they check out its install and go. and the scratch in my one bearing was most likely from a piece of shit that got in the oil.
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Good luck with that. A crank kit Is cheep insurance that your engine will last and they are fairly cheep.
 
nobody could answer my question though... about the torque to yeild rod bolts... the haynes manual just says torque 19-24 ft lbs. so i torqued them to 20 ft lbs
 
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