NITROUS WIRING

thanks guys...
another question....should I run the bottle heater and purge on seperate relays?

This is my FIRST nitrous kit and want to make sure I do it right.
 
my purge doesn't use a relay. I don't think you need it. The warmer does. Does it have a pressure switch too?
 
1BADAIR said:
my purge doesn't use a relay. I don't think you need it. The warmer does. Does it have a pressure switch too?
Click to expand...
ok on the purge.

Yes? on the pressure switch? I assume that is the thing I connected to the bottle with the two prongs off of it? it is hard to see in the pic but I think you will know what it is?
 

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i'm assuming you have the #85 post off the relay going to ground, and not the + on the battery, right? it's not clear on the drawing.
 
MxRacerCam said:
i'm assuming you have the #85 post off the relay going to ground, and not the + on the battery, right? it's not clear on the drawing.
Click to expand...

I have the black off the relay going to the battery...is that wrong?
 
by battery, you mean the positive post on the battery? if so, then yes, that's wrong. it needs to go to ground.
 
MxRacerCam said:
by battery, you mean the positive post on the battery? if so, then yes, that's wrong. it needs to go to ground.
Click to expand...
OK... so that goes to the ground. does everything else look right?
 
personally, i'd wire it so all the switches were on the switched (#86) side of the relay, and have a clean +12V going to the #30 side on the relay. (sorry... i never use the colored pigtails so i have no clue as to what color wire goes where on the relay). that, and what they said about the window switch.
 
MxRacerCam said:
personally, i'd wire it so all the switches were on the switched (#86) side of the relay, and have a clean +12V going to the #30 side on the relay. (sorry... i never use the colored pigtails so i have no clue as to what color wire goes where on the relay). that, and what they said about the window switch.
Click to expand...
OK...i will change my diagram with numbers instead of colors and repost the diagram. I don't want to make any mistakes...
 
No I think the black from the relay should go to positive.

If what i'm thinking is correct, red is positive trigger for the relay, while white is ground for the relay trigger.

Black is the high current (+) input into the relay, and green is the high current (+) output to the solenoids.

So I think black should go from either the battery + or another good power source, post at the fuse box ect.
 
QUASAR said:
No I think the black from the relay should go to positive.

If what i'm thinking is correct, red is positive trigger for the relay, while white is ground for the relay trigger.

Black is the high current (+) input into the relay, and green is the high current (+) output to the solenoids.

So I think black should go from either the battery + or another good power source, post at the fuse box ect.
Click to expand...


like i said, i don't know the pigtail colors. but there has to be a ground on that relay, and his diagram isn't showing one at all!!
 
White is ground. The window switch supplies the ground signal, and the signal passes thru the fpss and as long as that criteria is met the ground signal goes to the relay to energize the coil inside of it.

I can never remember the relay pin #'s. But I just keep in mind the basic operation of a relay and thats kinda what i'm going off of.
 
Before I understood how a relay worked it was confusing to me too. The high current (+) runs into the relay, then out of it to the solenoids. There is a little "coil" inside of the relay that needs a low current positive and negative charge to energize itself and "complete" the high current circut.

low current (+) comes from the arming switch

low current (-) comes from the window switch (and if you had no window switch or fpss you would just ground that wire and the system would activate soely by the arming switch.

high current enters the relay from a good power source, and exits the relay to power the solenoids.

when the low current side gets (+) and (-) it energizes the coil to connect/complete the high current circut.

I'm no EE but I think thats right.
 
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