Need Help with Wheel Stud Issue

JpMotorsports

Forum Member
I have a 67 Chevelle with factory front disc brakes. Last Friday while cruising Woodward I developed a vibration while driving. Thought it was the stall converter that was recently installed going loose. Got the car towed home and found that all 5 wheel studs have gone loose. The lugs are still on those studs. I am having a serious issue on removing the lugs or studs to get the wheel off to replace them and inspect the whole assembly. So far I have tried to put pressure on the stud and zip off the lugs with the impact (that failed) I tried to grind a groove in the stud and hold with a screw driver to hold the stud again failed. Tried a nut splitter to break the lugs off again no luck. What should I do next? I bought a steel drill bit but once the bit hits the stud it spins the stud and falls off. Should I try a air hammer? Is that the only option left? I am running steel wheels with exposed lugs. I am trying not to damage the powdercoating on the wheels. I have checked the other 15 studs and lugs and they are all tight. So it is just this one wheel issue. Has anyone ever dealt with a issue like this or have any incite? I am trying to get the car ready for Woodward and a televised event in 2 weeks.


Thank you so much,
John
 
Can you leech lock tight on the back side and tighten it back up? Let it setup and then try taking the lugs off?
 
I have tried to drive the studs back on and have had no luck. With everything on and the backing plates there is no access from the back side to see the studs or get to them
 
Have you tried tightening the lug nuts with the impact to pull the stud back in and re-seat them in the hub? Then try to zip them off. Or similar to torch them off, cut them off with a cut-off wheel from the back side or grind the head of the stud off.
 
Let that wheel rest on the ground with the vehicle weight resting the wheel on those studs. Breaker bar the lugs off if the impact doesn't snap off the studs.
 
No offense, but do most of you guys read the entire post, or just the title?

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The wheel is still on due to studs rotating within the hub plate not allowing the lugs to back off.

Thats how im reading it.
 
Wish I would of seen this sooner. Studs are generally surfaced hardened only. A good cobalt bit will drill right through them. Usually use a 5/16" bit then can usually break the stud off after.
 
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