mustang drag tire question....Help!

indyrt

indyrt

Club Member
I have a fox body car with 8" wheel. It has a 11.5 x 28 et street. They seemed ok. The rule use to be within 2" of wheel size. Same size rim is best. My question is this... How have the drag radials been working on 10-11 sec cars? 2) I really don't care for the drag radial tread look.... Is there an alt. tire???
 
indyrt said:
I have a fox body car with 8" wheel. It has a 11.5 x 28 et street. They seemed ok. The rule use to be within 2" of wheel size. Same size rim is best. My question is this... How have the drag radials been working on 10-11 sec cars? 2) I really don't care for the drag radial tread look.... Is there an alt. tire???
Click to expand...

They work because they dial in their suspension. Most of the factory stock guys cut 1.5-1.60 60 fts and they run deep into the 11's. I know ON my nittos I cut 1.65-1.70s- 60's all day long. On et streets 1.55-1.59 and on slicks I would get 1.50's..
my OLD 91 I really had to work on dialing in the rear shocks ( I used double adj) and I could get any tire to work. I hit 1.79 on goodyears..

as for tread look...there are several brands that have different tires...mickeys, nitto, bfg...
 
In terms of a DOT approved tire, I liked the Hoosier QTP's the best. But I ran a 10" wheel with a 28 x 11.5 (10 tread width).

The 28 x 11.5 ET streets are a pretty narrow tire as the tread width is barely 9 inches.

I have tried the following and this is what I got out of them:

2005
28 x 12.5 ET streets (10in wheel) = 1.61 sixty's / 11.0's @ 123 +/-
28 x 11.5 QTP's (10in wheel) = 1.56 sixty's / 10.90's @ 123 +/-

2006
275-60-15 ET street radials (10in wheel) = 1.86 sixty's / 11.0's @ 128 +/-
28 x 10.5 ET Drags (10in wheel) = 1.40 sixty's / 10.60's @ 128 +/-

I tried an 8 in wheel for a while as well but the car felt very unstable. I switch to a 10in wheel and it was the best thing I could have done.

The radials do not work well with my setup for several reasons, some of which include: the car is not heavy enough to get them to work, to much gear (4.88's), and the fact that its a 5 speed car doesn't help.

If you want it to hook, put a real set of slicks on it and go have fun.
 
mustang tires

I agree on the slick... I need a multi-purpose tire...so you are saying the "sway" I feel will be lessoned w/ the 10" wheel? Thanks for the input
 
tires

When I went from a locker to a spool, the car seemed to shoot straighter on the street
 
Bringing this thread back form the dead....I have a few questions.

I have a 88 mustang notch and I have 15x8 welds with 28x10.50 Mickey Thompson ET drags on them but they don't even come close to fitting on my notch. First they hit the quad shock which is used as the axle damper, they hit the exhaust tips and it hits the inner fenderwell up near the front of the wheel well.

I notice that the axle housing is located closer to the front of the fenderwell and with tire growth the tire would possibly rub. I have stock upper and lower control arms currently so with adjustable you will be able to move the axle further back in the wheel well.

I took off the axle damper shock but it still hits the exhaust and inner well. What am I doing wrong? I know I need to massage the fenderwell but maybe i have the wrong size tire? Do I need adjustable suspension now? Thanks for the help
 
quack said:
Bringing this thread back form the dead....I have a few questions.

I have a 88 mustang notch and I have 15x8 welds with 28x10.50 Mickey Thompson ET drags on them but they don't even come close to fitting on my notch. First they hit the quad shock which is used as the axle damper, they hit the exhaust tips and it hits the inner fenderwell up near the front of the wheel well.

I notice that the axle housing is located closer to the front of the fenderwell and with tire growth the tire would possibly rub. I have stock upper and lower control arms currently so with adjustable you will be able to move the axle further back in the wheel well.

I took off the axle damper shock but it still hits the exhaust and inner well. What am I doing wrong? I know I need to massage the fenderwell but maybe i have the wrong size tire? Do I need adjustable suspension now? Thanks for the help
Click to expand...


What is the offset of the wheel you have? A 15x8 with a 4.5 or a 5.5 inch backspace will work. If you have more than a 5.5 inch backspace you are going to have issues and you'll need to use a wheel spacer. As for the tail pipes, what size are they? Are they stock? If so then why are you using such a tall tire (saying this because if you are running stock pipes, you're likely not making a ton of power and running a taller tire uses more available power than necessary)? You could run a 26x10.5 and avoid what seems to be giving you a headache. What kind of power is the car making? What kind of times do you think it will run?
 
The backspacing on the rim is 5.5". The exhaust is a FMS 2-1/2" system with flows. The tires were on the rims and I am trying to get them to fit but it takes more modification than first thought.

It seems I may have to buy a set of 26 x 10.50 then to alleviate the problem of these not fitting. Any problem fitting a 26 x 10.50 ET street on the notch?
 
Ok i want in on this to but my questions are on the front skinnies.

But first heres pics of a 15x10 with 6 inch backspacing with a 28x11.5 ET street. They clear the inner wheel well by about a 1/2 on one side and clear the other side by about 1/4 inch. I don`t like how they stick out so far so i`m going to narrow the houseing 1 1/4 inches perside and cut some of the inner fender and or use spacers if i have to.

92sspnotchbackand93notch034.jpg

92sspnotchbackand93notch035.jpg
 
so I assume you removed the axle damper shock or only have the vertical shock left on the rear axle? I don't see an exhaust so you probably have dumps which is what i was going to do but wanted to wait...

I myself wanted the tire to be tucked under the car and not sticking out from the car.
 
Ok now about the front skinnies
I notice guys use a 165r15 on a 15x3.5 rim and i think there useing a 1.75 back spacing correct ? Also is there a better tire to use ? The 165r15 looks to tiny.
 
mustang tire

the first thing you do is throw those axle shocks away, they keep the axle from working. Yes, you could go with the adjustible control arms. you would need both so you could adjust your pinion angle once moved..ps.. be sure the axle is square to the car if you do. I have 28x11.5 on 8" wheel and they do not hit. Maybe because the sidewall is sucked in. As for traction, you get a flatter footpring=better traction by using a same / closer tire / rim size.
 
Here are a few pics with different tires (28x10.5 ET drags, 28x11.5 QTP's, & 275-60-15 M/T Radials) on a 15x10 w/ 6.5" Backspacing:

installed_engine_2_018-1.jpg


275-60-15_mt_drag_radial_005-1.jpg


rear_sd_1.jpg


These fit without spacers on a stock width axle. Plenty of clearance.
 
QuickLX said:
Here are a few pics with different tires (28x10.5 ET drags, 28x11.5 QTP's, & 275-60-15 M/T Radials) on a 15x10 w/ 6.5" Backspacing:

installed_engine_2_018-1.jpg


275-60-15_mt_drag_radial_005-1.jpg


rear_sd_1.jpg


These fit without spacers on a stock width axle. Plenty of clearance.
Click to expand...

Did you have to 'modify' the inner fenderwell? Heard that was a common thing to have to do. I picked up a pair of 15x10's and will be running a 28x10 ET Drag. Wondering how much of a pain it's gonna be to get it to fit.
 
82hatch said:
Did you have to 'modify' the inner fenderwell? Heard that was a common thing to have to do. I picked up a pair of 15x10's and will be running a 28x10 ET Drag. Wondering how much of a pain it's gonna be to get it to fit.
Click to expand...

I am not going to lie to you.....I had blisters on my hands from beating the inners in so far. The most problematic areas that require the majority of the hammering are the ones near the factory upper shock mounts, and the corners so to speak of the inners. By this I mean the areas where the outer edge of the sidewall nearest the tread of the tire would make contact. Its not really the tread width that causes the clearance problems, so much as it is the "section width".
 
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