Mustang cooling issue

I still have all the A/C parts on the car. Could the A/C condenser having bent fins or something to make it overheat? It seems like my problem is air temp sensitive. Since its been cooler out and i have been running the car without the thermostat, it has stayed cool under normal driving and playing a little.Though it seems like it runs too cool.

But when i had the thermostat out and it was an 80 degree day, it stayed cool for 20mins then it wanted to heat up a little to around the ideal temp, but kept rising. I know its bad to drive without a thermostat but i dont want to keep the heat on to drive the car. Still trying to figure this out, and i would like to keep the a/c components there.
 
Running your vehicle with no thermostat makes the coolant travel too fast through the system and reduces the effect of the radiator. Do not run your vehicle with no thermostat.
The boiling point of your coolant is raised 3 degrees for every pound of pressure. Make sure your cap is also good and your system is holding pressure.
 
gub said:
I still have all the A/C parts on the car. Could the A/C condenser having bent fins or something to make it overheat? It seems like my problem is air temp sensitive. Since its been cooler out and i have been running the car without the thermostat, it has stayed cool under normal driving and playing a little.Though it seems like it runs too cool.

But when i had the thermostat out and it was an 80 degree day, it stayed cool for 20mins then it wanted to heat up a little to around the ideal temp, but kept rising. I know its bad to drive without a thermostat but i dont want to keep the heat on to drive the car. Still trying to figure this out, and i would like to keep the a/c components there.
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A rad cap thatisn't holding pressure will do all of what you mentioned. Replace the cap, and put a 160 stat in with a bypass in it or drill a small hole in it. You can even go 180 with a FI car.

How many of hte fins on the condensor are bent? If it's alot then yes it will harm cooling performance.
 
Only a few of the fins are bent. Im not sure of where the radiator cap is located on this system. Normally they are on the radiator but it seems as if it has a different setup. Ill take a picture of it and post it.
 
gub said:
Only a few of the fins are bent. Im not sure of where the radiator cap is located on this system. Normally they are on the radiator but it seems as if it has a different setup. Ill take a picture of it and post it.
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It's an SN 95 right? It should be on the rad....post some pictures, i'm interested now.
 
Ok, it does have the cap it was covered by some blue aftermarket dress up peice. Is there a way to test a cap to see if it still holds pressure? If the cap was bad, wouldnt it spew coolant out of it or boil the overflow? because i have no coolant loss and the overflow is fine.


What about if the alternator is bad? If the fan isnt recieving enough voltage to spin at the speed its sopposed to? When the car is warmed up the volt gauge is between the "O" and "R" of normal. But the fan still does come on high.
 
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gub said:
Ok, it does have the cap it was covered by some blue aftermarket dress up peice. Is there a way to test a cap to see if it still holds pressure? If the cap was bad, wouldnt it spew coolant out of it or boil the overflow? because i have no coolant loss and the overflow is fine.


What about if the alternator is bad? If the fan isnt recieving enough voltage to spin at the speed its sopposed to? When the car is warmed up the volt gauge is between the "O" and "R" of normal. But the fan still does come on high.
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Put a volt meter on it. Yes you can test a cap with a 150$ tester. New caps are 12. And actually put the volt meter at the fan connections. An improperly wired fan can be a problem
 
Ok, i put in the 180 thermo and so far so good. If it warms up a little this week that will prob. determine whether i fixed it or not. thanks for your help everyone
 
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