Mustang Battery re-locate

$uperstang

$uperstang

Club Member
Is this the right way to do this? Not planing on doing it until spring but want to start researching the best way so that I don't have any issues. I have read horror stories on Mustang boards with people having electrical issues and then ending up putting it back under the hood.

Money is not an issue I just want to do it right?

23664943e4657893e.jpg


I already have the engine grounded to the sway bar bracket with a 4ga battery ground. What is this 10ga wire they show (ECU)?
 
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that is the way to wire it and have it shut off with the switch




don't think it will pass tech if you were running real high speed where they check everything(as it doesn't actually kill all power to the front), but it will pass all the tech inspections I have seen
 
that will kill all power to the front.

i placed my starter solenoid in the back by the cutoff because i was getting hot start issues with it wired like the drawing above. moved the solenoid to the back and it all went away. Im using 00 cable in most heavy load areas too.

dont buy that kit even for $100. the cables are junk and the box can be had on ebay for $25. youll have to go to a welding supply store for the cable.
 
avbcon12 said:
that will kill all power to the front.

i placed my starter solenoid in the back by the cutoff because i was getting hot start issues with it wired like the drawing above. moved the solenoid to the back and it all went away.
Click to expand...

So take the solenoid that is in the front and move it to the back? What to do with all the damn wires going to the solenoid then?
 
avbcon12 said:
that will kill all power to the front.

i placed my starter solenoid in the back by the cutoff because i was getting hot start issues with it wired like the drawing above. moved the solenoid to the back and it all went away. Im using 00 cable in most heavy load areas too.

dont buy that kit even for $100. the cables are junk and the box can be had on ebay for $25. youll have to go to a welding supply store for the cable.
Click to expand...

not quite, the 12v charge lead from the Alt. is still hot....................
 
dave89iroc said:
not quite, the 12v charge lead from the Alt. is still hot....................
Click to expand...

yes but it kills all power to everything making the engine/ everything else run. it passes code according to the tech that inspected my cars. the alt wire has to be on the battery side of the cutoff switch or else the car will stay running even if the cutoff is turned off.

Detroit Style Dragger said:
You can run a distribution block.
Click to expand...

thats what i did.
 
;1448641 said:
Fuck, why can't shit just be simple, How the fuck do you use a distribution block, pics, part #, what do I get?
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Goto a car audio store, ask for a block with a 0/4 input with a 0/4 out and 8gauge outs as well.

Try one of these.
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_211DBX3434/StreetWires-DBX3434.html?tp=792
http://www.crutchfield.com/p_211FBXM68/StreetWires-FBXM68.html?tp=792

Or choose from some more.
http://www.crutchfield.com/g_715/Power-Distribution-Hardware.html?tp=792
 
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it will be easier to just buy the kit instead of trying to piece together... welding cable gets very pricey(i worked at an electrical supply store before getting laid off) and from the looks of the diagram the motor and everything else will shut off with the switch... the only thing i did differently is that i ran the wire from the alternator directly to the battery instead of running it to the switch

as for running a distribution block or moving the starter soliniod... it will be much easier to run only on large wire instead of running multiple smaller wires
 
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steve581581 said:
it will be easier to just buy the kit instead of trying to piece together... welding cable gets very pricey(i worked at an electrical supply store before getting laid off) and from the looks of the diagram the motor and everything else will shut off with the switch... the only thing i did differently is that i ran the wire from the alternator directly to the battery instead of running it to the switch

as for running a distribution block or moving the starter soliniod... it will be much easier to run only on large wire instead of running multiple smaller wires
Click to expand...
Id put the block up near the factory battery location. That way, all the factory wires/cables can be re used.
 
Detroit Style Dragger said:
Id put the block up near the factory battery location. That way, all the factory wires/cables can be re used.
Click to expand...

ding ding, winner!

move the solenoid to the back, run a 2 guage cable from the solenoid to the front at a fused block (i use a 120amp fuse) and connect all factory wires there. i fused the hell out of my system just in case of any rubbing issues on the wires that may come up.

for the starter wire, since the solenoid will be all the way in the back the starter wire will have to be very large to carry the load and not have hot start issues. it woks flawlessly though when done, just like stock.

as for welding wire, its expensive but works best because it carried the heavy loads and is very flexible. cable from audio shops work as well but dont tend to have such a robust exterior coating and can wear through. welding cable is usually dragged across the floor all its life.

the kits out there are not good, they usually come with at most 2 gauge cable which will not be enough for loads and wont come with the length you need to do it properly.

Pete, Ill try to put a list of things together tonight of what i used.
 
avbcon12 said:
yes but it kills all power to everything making the engine/ everything else run. it passes code according to the tech that inspected my cars. the alt wire has to be on the battery side of the cutoff switch or else the car will stay running even if the cutoff is turned off.



thats what i did.
Click to expand...

thats what I said, it will pass tech for anything you plan on doing with a stock bodied car
 
Dude, you guys are awesome!

Thanks for all the help and advice. Honestly I want to do it once the right way and not think about it.

Adam that would be very helpful!

Thanks again!
 
battery box: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Batt...011QQitemZ320325504595QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

all Positive cables

from the battery i used 1/0 welding cable to the this switch:

switch: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Heav...1QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247

from the switch i used 1/0 cable to this breaker:

breaker: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/200-...1QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247

then from the breaker i used 1/0 cable to the starter relay and doubled from that terminal (starter relay input) with 2 gauge cable up to the front of the car where the stock cables used to go to the starter relay.

at the front end of the 2 gauge cable i used this fuse and 150 amp fuse:

fuse holder: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ANL-...ryZ38636QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

then i attached all the stock cable that used to go to the starter to that

i ran a different 2 gauge from the alt directly to the battery with another 2 gauge cable

then from the starter output i used 1/0 up to the starter because it has to carry a very heavy load.


all negative cables

from the battery i used 1/0 cable and attached directly to the quad shock mount on the rear subframe.

i have fully welded full length subframes so this has to help with grounding. some people say they need to run a redundant ground from the battery all the way to the engine but i didnt.

as you can see its about $120 in materials other than welding cable and lug ends for the cables. these can be had for $100. so for about $220 you can have a perfectly working and very expandable system

thats basically it. I have a few other buss bars and relays for my external fuel pumps and things but as far as the battery relocation goes this is about it. hope this helps
 
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Adam thanks.

I understand it for the most part and thank you!

Is there anyway you could modify the above pic I posted for a visual of your system to make sure I got it down?
 
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