More Fox Mustang Manual Brake Help

my89notchback

my89notchback

Club Member
I am swapping the power brakes to a manual set up and need to know if you use the proportioning block or change to a in-line valve? The car is going to stay a disc front/drum rear set up.

Thanks!
 
When my car had dums out back I used the stock prop valve and it stopped really well from 145mph, when I went rear disc I had to ditch the valve.
 
orangejuiced86 said:
Ya,I moved the pin up like 1.25". Shit its been so long.
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I did 1 inch and it was a pain in the butt because the brake switch was hitting the bracket. I would suggest doing 1.25in, But ill tell you it made a big difference in how my brakes held, definatly worth doing!
 
You can also use a G body brake switch and make a simple bracket to hold it. It's an in out switch for the brake lights with adjustable threads all teh way down the switch so you can adjust depth. I hate putting anything extra in the brake lines, plus you can just use spade connectors and not relocate the wiring for the brake lights.
 
Billydroveit said:
You can also use a G body brake switch and make a simple bracket to hold it. It's an in out switch for the brake lights with adjustable threads all teh way down the switch so you can adjust depth. I hate putting anything extra in the brake lines, plus you can just use spade connectors and not relocate the wiring for the brake lights.
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Do you remember what year G- body switch you used? Or are they all the same? I think I like the bracket idea over the pressure switch.

Thanks
 
orangejuiced86 said:
Never once had an issue with the pressure switch. It was like $10. Wired right up. Just my $.00000000002
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Ryan, did you just T it off the master? Like between the master and the line lock? I have a oil pressure switch from a fuel pump left over. Would that work? Or do I need one of the Autometer pro light switches?
 
I went to the autoparts store and got a factory switch off some Chrysler car I think. Man its been so long. I just threaded it into an open port on my line local.
 
i got the factory switch in there but man o man it was a huge pain in the ass, Those are both good ideas to get around it though
 
Prostreet72 said:
Ryan, did you just T it off the master? Like between the master and the line lock? I have a oil pressure switch from a fuel pump left over. Would that work? Or do I need one of the Autometer pro light switches?
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http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa.../N-imve3Z9cias?itemIdentifier=116467_0_0_6891

Never said there's anything wrong with the pressure \switch. I just prefer this for less fittings in teh brake system, not having to relocate teh wires outside. If you buy the Hurst or multi port line lock you can use one of the outlets on there depending on brake set up. For me, less wire in engine compartment the better. But i have friends with the pressure switch too, works great.
 
Did you guys pull the whole pedal assy or were you some how able just to remove the brake one, to move it up a 1 1/2
 
fyoung7 said:
Did you guys pull the whole pedal assy or were you some how able just to remove the brake one, to move it up a 1 1/2
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LOL! Haven't got that far yet. I like to have it planned out first. I will probably take a swing at it this weekend. I'm not sure if a small 90* drill will fit under there or not. I'll let you know.
 
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