lt1 issues

[94Z]

i have a 94 camaro with an lt1 and whenever i start it up it either dies or runs like its misfiring and then cleans up after about 10 seconds. then it breaks up after about 5k.i think it might be the opti but i just replaced it about 1000 miles ago and when it was the opti i was having some other problems that are different than now. any help would be nice. thank you.

 

[dave89iroc]

i have a 94 camaro with an lt1 and whenever i start it up it either dies or runs like its misfiring and then cleans up after about 10 seconds. then it breaks up after about 5k.i think it might be the opti but i just replaced it about 1000 miles ago and when it was the opti i was having some other problems that are different than now. any help would be nice. thank you.

with the start up issue, I'd look for a leaking injector first

 

[Sean124]

i have a 94 camaro with an lt1 and whenever i start it up it either dies or runs like its misfiring and then cleans up after about 10 seconds. then it breaks up after about 5k.i think it might be the opti but i just replaced it about 1000 miles ago and when it was the opti i was having some other problems that are different than now. any help would be nice. thank you.

does it get worse in high gears ????

 

[Blackbirdws6zzz]

sounds like a opti to me. Try swapping compters?

My opti problem was really weird. I had a oil leak out on the opti, so whenever I turned right it would cut out, sputter, die, run on one cylinder for like 5 minutes, then it wouldn't start. Did this for too weeks and then it finally gave up. They do weird things!

 

[94Z]

does it get worse in high gears ????

it starts to die out around 5k rpm in all gears. and when im cruising at a constant speed the check engine light cuts on but goes off as soon as i speed up or slow down so i cant run the code to see what it is. and it also vibrates really bad right around 3k rpm.

on a better note i need some advice on building a new motor cause that was the plan anyways. i want to go with a blown and juiced 396 so if anyone has advice on pistons, heads, and supercharger manufacturer it would be apreciated.

last thing. is a 3rd gen rearend the same width as a 4th gen.

 

[Sean124]

it starts to die out around 5k rpm in all gears. and when im cruising at a constant speed the check engine light cuts on but goes off as soon as i speed up or slow down so i cant run the code to see what it is. and it also vibrates really bad right around 3k rpm.

on a better note i need some advice on building a new motor cause that was the plan anyways. i want to go with a blown and juiced 396 so if anyone has advice on pistons, heads, and supercharger manufacturer it would be apreciated.

last thing. is a 3rd gen rearend the same width as a 4th gen.

Hm something is fishy have you checked Fuel Pressure sounds like it could be a pump issue by description. either that or an EGR problem or one of 50 other probles. this is gonna be one of those bring it to the shop lets have a look see type of problems


396 lt1 uugghh block really isn;t good at accepting this stroke. a 383 is a better choise with a SC on the car not really needed. I would go 355 with good parts spalyed caps and then use the SC to make the TQ

no 3rd gen rears are 1.75 narrower per side but they will bolt into a 4th gen. the axle ends are different but those can be changed easily enough.

 

[CableGuy]

it starts to die out around 5k rpm in all gears. and when im cruising at a constant speed the check engine light cuts on but goes off as soon as i speed up or slow down so i cant run the code to see what it is. and it also vibrates really bad right around 3k rpm.

on a better note i need some advice on building a new motor cause that was the plan anyways. i want to go with a blown and juiced 396 so if anyone has advice on pistons, heads, and supercharger manufacturer it would be apreciated.

last thing. is a 3rd gen rearend the same width as a 4th gen.

Some advice..

LSX

 

[94Z]

Some advice..

LSX

if i wanted an LSx i woulda bought a bug eye car. that and alot of companys are finally making parts for the lt1s so i think ill stick with what i got.

 

[Dr. Teeth]

396 lt1 uugghh block really isn;t good at accepting this stroke. a 383 is a better choise with a SC on the car not really needed. I would go 355 with good parts spalyed caps and then use the SC to make the TQ.

Sean-

I am thinking of doing the same, rebuilding a decent LT1 core and putting the SC to it. You think a standard 355 is better? What happens if I go to the 383 and then SC the thing? I've been wondering this for a while now, but usually get no answers.

Brian.

 

[Eric@VictoryRacing]

355 is my recommendation also. We built a 355 with stock unported heads, stock throttle body, stock intake and made 518rwhp/468 ft.lbs @ 10psi. That short block consisted of a Callies Dragonslayer crankshaft, Compstar connecting rods, custom Diamond Pistons, and splayed main caps. You can check out they dyno video and some build pics HERE

 

[94Z]

ok. now for just a few more random questions before i start my build. when it comes to the opti. should i use the stock block and opti setup with a msd unit or get a newer lt with the better opti? second what are the best pistons for a blown and juiced 355?

 

[Sean124]

ok. now for just a few more random questions before i start my build. when it comes to the opti. should i use the stock block and opti setup with a msd unit or get a newer lt with the better opti? second what are the best pistons for a blown and juiced 355?

I am partial to Mahle pistons I know that nick and eric like diamonds. Fact is with the correct alloys and coating all pistons are pretty much equal. a 355 does 2 things better then a 383. 1 rod ratio you can run less timming and a logner rod. This will help cut down detonation on a blower/turbo engine. 2 it reduce thrust loading on the piston skirt again better with a blower 3 the all important 3 the blocks while sturdy are not stupidly sturdy and when making big power you should avoid alot of stroke with a stock block as the loading is gonna try to tear the lower end apart.

As for the opti setup. give me a ring i can help on that front.

 

[juicedz]

355 is my recommendation also. We built a 355 with stock unported heads, stock throttle body, stock intake and made 518rwhp/468 ft.lbs @ 10psi. That short block consisted of a Callies Dragonslayer crankshaft, Compstar connecting rods, custom Diamond Pistons, and splayed main caps. You can check out they dyno video and some build pics HERE

I'm not sure I like the kits design with the intercooler mounted right above the engine and back near the firewall. That's a vortech kit correct? Obviously you guys wrapped it up to bring the heat down but I really like the idea of mounting a larger intercooler up front in front of the radiator. He's also still running mid lengths on there too right? Good #'s either way. eelout:

 

[1BADAIR]

its a water to air intercooler with a water tank in the left corner and a water cooler under the air dam

 

[Dr. Teeth]

its a water to air intercooler with a water tank in the left corner and a water cooler under the air dam

so which is better, the water to air cooler that was shown, or the air-to-air one that juicedz was thinking?

 

[Dr. Teeth]

ok. now for just a few more random questions before i start my build. when it comes to the opti. should i use the stock block and opti setup with a msd unit or get a newer lt with the better opti? second what are the best pistons for a blown and juiced 355?

You will get a lot of answers to this, mostly different, I know I asked a milllion tims. LS1tech.com has an LT1 section with scads of information on the LT1. I'd look there also. It seems that some like the MSD, others do not. I am running a stock OPti, the other one lasted 135k, so that tells me that it's not a complete POS. You can get a new Delco opti from ebay for about $125 or so. Just make sure that the vacuum lines are hooked up right. Mine were messed up and it was putting the opti under a full vacuum, so anything that touched the case seal seeped right in and it shorted the optical disk sensor bigtime.

I am going to do the same thing as you, but I think I will stick with a 355 build and put the money into the boost, the bottom end and some forged pistons so I can spray if I want to later. I am still running the stock rear as well and it's just a matter of time before that detonates.....
eelout: Good luck!