Line lock don't hold?

StangNut86

StangNut86

Club Member
i have a summit line-loc installed on my car and it won't hold pressure. i'll sit on slight incline, push the brake pedal as far as i can and toggle the lineloc on and let go.... it holds for a second or so then bleeds off and the car rolls. i tried to do a burnout with it on and it just rolls right through it, there's no pressure. on top of that i called summit's awesome tech support and they tried to tell me it's 'not supposed' to hold.... yeah right, i've seen a car at milan that did a line-loc burnout and then wouldn't move at all cause the front brakes were locked up when the solenoid failed. it NEVER bled down, he had to crack a line fitting to get the front brakes to release. i think summit's giving me a hard time, and i've bled the shit out of the front brake system trying to make it hold. any ideas/suggestions?
 
the solenoid is wired to a toggle switch rather than a momentary switch because didn't want it on the steering wheel or shifter.

it's an 86 mustang, prolly about 2800## wet
 
Thats fine but you must have the solenoid engaged(on) at all times for it to lock the brakes, then off to release the brakes...
This is the reason for push button on/off switch on the wheel or shifter. LEt if fly off as your done burning out.
 
erm, i kinda meant toggle switch as in, you click it and it stays closed (on) until you click it off, not a momentary switch where you have to hold it as long as you want that circuit on. the solenoid is staying on but not holding pressure. i'm pretty sure the solenoid is leaking internally.
 
Well it could be...
If you are in the water..press brake, switch on, release brake..front brake should hold with line loc...as you're burning but they will roll thur also if you start to get traction.. depends on your front brakes!
 
it's brand friggin new, that's what irritates me. i don't think summit tech has a clue. besides the fact that it's supposed to be 'stainless steel' but there's rust coming through the chrome. what garbage, i should have spent the extra 40 bucks and got the hurst in the first place. i don't think summit markets a rebuild kit for their own brand LL
 
I pump mine then hold and hit the switch and it holds great. No offense but do you have all the lines run to the right spots?
 
Something is definately wrong here. Can you hear the solenoid working if you have the car off and just flip the toggle? Is all of your wiring correct? As mentioned already, is your plumbing correct? These are not questions of ignorance or intelligence, people just make mistakes sometimes and it doesn't hurt to go back thru the install / setup process to be sure things are correct.
 
plumbing is as follows: directly off the master cylinder's rearmost port to the line-loc's port closest to the heat sink fins, just like the instructions. two of the lower ports go to the front brakes, one left one right, the other is plugged. factory proportioning valve is long gone, rear brakes are independant with a wilwood adjustable prop valve. no leaks whatsoever.

toggle switch is located in the center colsole.... power taken from the cigarette lighter circuit which i rarely if ever use direcly to the switch, the switch goes direcly to the solenoid (yes i need to figure out a warning light and a pressure operated light switch). solenoid is grounded directly to one of its mounting bolts.

i can hear the solenoid operate with the engine off.

i've bled all the fittings in the system and the calipers many times trying to find air and believe there is none.

only thing that makes sense without breaking out pressure gauges is that the solenoid is bleeding down internally.
 
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