Keeping water pipes from freezing in an un heated building

DarkoStoj

A mysterious figure named Darko
I have a 20' run of 5" cast water pipe that goes to 200' of 2" steel water pipe in an unheated section of my building and have always had problems with keeping it from freezing on the cold days in winter.

The main reason I haven't used heating tape or cable is because it is a huge pain to install and I never knew if it would actually do the job so I never put it in just in case it was a waste of work. I wrapped a few length of it that were easy to get to and the pipe is still 20* (no insulation though). The coldest un-wrapped section I could find was 8* as of this morning.

I have to get this figured out, I'm getting tired of this happening and just want to do it right once and for all and get it finished. Heating the building is not an option.

Anybody have any experience that could point me in the right direction? The pipe is only there for our bathroom, so there isn't a lot of water demand.
 
Not sure if it's the right way, but what I would do if I were in your boots would be to re-pipe the bathroom - kill that line all together. Not sure if it is even feasible, but can you tap into another water line that's in a better insulated part of the building and if you need hot water buy a tank or you can even plumb the 'hot water on demand' units at the sink.

I tried the insulation, wraps, heat tape, etc. on about 12 feet of pipe on an old house and it wasn't very effective (had to still crack the hot water faucet to keep it from freezing). Best thing I did was to re-pipe/route the line to where the house was insulated better.
 
We had major issues last year with our outdoor cooling tower supply lines freezing last year at my work. We installed a heat trace line and insulated it with 1" Insulation and have not had an issue this year. Guess when I go in tonight ill find out for sure if our compressors start up or not lol
 
Heat tape works, Ive used it before on 3/4 copper, but not 5" cast iron. I say cap off and drain the pipe... run copper or cheap plastic plex tubing against gutter heat tape enclosed in foam pipe insulation. ... cheap solution.
 
Short term is to crack the faucets open so the water keeps moving. Long term is had to say without seeing the actual setup and long term almost always has an expense tied to it :/


Just saw Rich's idea and that sounds like a good way of fixing it
 
A city will ask everyone to keep their faucets open a little. BECAUSE THEY CANT HEAT THAT SHIT ALL WINTER!!

:) Goodluck fighting mother nature. I crack open my house faucet anytime we are below 20 which is often.
 
Might explore geothermal heating/cooling? The upfront cost is the nut kicker, but over the life span it's cheap and uses very little real-estate.
 
Went to a fire alarm last night at a nursing home/ rehab facility.... 3" pipe for fire suppression system froze/broke up in the attic.... what a mess it made.
 
Re-plumb it with Pex tubing. Pex will expand and contract and will not burst when it freezes. I'm doing our cabin in Pex this spring as we don't keep it heated in the winter.
 
Re-plumb it with Pex tubing. Pex will expand and contract and will not burst when it freezes. I'm doing our cabin in Pex this spring as we don't keep it heated in the winter.

I had to run water pipes through my unheated garage into my addition and thats what I used. Though manufactures of PEX won't say its freeze proof, it's proving it self to not spilt when it freezes. You do have to leave a loop for it to expend.

I framed a box over mine and insulted it after installation.
 
option1- free method (other then a little higher water bill)-i have this same issue, leave the water on in the sink allowing a small stream to come out from both the hot and cold side.

you could also fab up a boiler system and plumb a line or two to run next to the pipe.
 
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