Idle problems... TPS? IAC?

Birdie2000

Club Member
Car is a 2000 Cavalier z24 w/ 2.4 and 5 spd manual.

2 problems:

1.) Sometimes in the morning when the engine is still cold, the engine will race when disengage the clutch. So if I'm driving out of my parking lot in the morning, when I push the clutch in to come to a stop, the engine will either hold the 2,000-2,500 rpms it was at while still engaged, or it'll creep up to that if I was at a lower engine speed before pressing the pedal. It will not return to a normal idle speed without putting it back in gear for a minute to bring it back down to the normal 1,000 rpm idle. After a minute or two of driving (by the time I leave my parking lot) it'll drive normally.

2.) If I'm accelerating from a stop and I have to pop the clutch and hit the brakes (in a traffic jam for instance), sometimes when the engine is going back down to idle speed, it goes past the normal 1,000 rpm idle speed and down to 400-500 rpm, shudders a bit, then goes back up to normal. Occasionally this is enough to stall the car which is really frustrating because not only do I look like a dumbass, but it always takes a second to start after being stalled which only further adds to the dumbass factor. Turning the steering wheel all the way to one side and putting strain on the power steering pump will also cause it to dip down for a sec and hunt for an idle, but it returns to normal quickly even if I don't let off the steering wheel.

These are relatively minor intermittent problems and don't happen very often, but still annoying nonetheless. Is it likely a TPS or IAC sensor, or should I be hunting down a vacuum leak. I've looked things over and I can't find a vacuum leak yet, but I suppose there could be one hiding somewhere.
 
Wouldn't hurt to clean out the IAC motor, keeping the crud out of it will help it travel easier.
 
I would put a guage on the car to check to see if it has a leak then search for one. A healthy motor usually idles at 15 to 20 inches of vaccum. If you do have a leak, use brake clean to track the leak. If you spray brake clean along a vaccum leak the rpm will rise on the motor. Might also want to use a ommeter and chack the voltage on your TPS.
 

sorry Jim. Pretty tired lately.

Anyways Try cleaning the TB. It might be sticking and or have a carboned up blade. Both of your symptoms are typicaly of a dirty TB.

The other likely culprit is the PCV vent hose that runs to the side of the TB from the crankcase vent box. You have to remove the Aircleaner hat from the TB to see it but if you look on the front of the block there is a 3/4 hose leading up from the front of the block. They tend to go bad and cuase similar driavebility complaints on the 2.4's.
 
No problem Sean, you and me both...

I think I already changed out the hose that you're talking about but I'll check and make sure.

Since the TPS was only $25, I'm going to throw a new one on, I'm going to clean the IAC while I'm in there (those are pricey) and I'll clean the TB while I'm doing all of that. I know it's a bit of a shotgun approach, but I don't care as long as one of those cures it and it doesn't take too much time. If none of those do it, I'll obtain a gauge and start hunting down a vacuum leak.

Thanks guys!
 
better to borow a scan tool to find a vaccum leak. Aside from that pcv hose I have never seen a vacum leak on a 2.4 unless it had a ruptured hose somewhere else.

Does this behavior occur during breaking or coasting?
 
I have a friend with a Tech2 that I'll consult if this continues, he's a retired service tech who worked directly for Cadillac. He's the one that told me it's likely my TPS but that he would have a better idea if he hooked the tool up. For the price ($25 for the TPS) I figured I'd just give that a try.

The idle dipping and recovering is almost exclusively during braking.

The engine rpms staying stuck at a high rpm between shifts is more upon coasting and only within the first minute or two of starting the engine cold.

I also feel that the revs don't start to drop quickly enough when I let off the gas pedal during normal shifting, but I'm not sure if that's just how the car is or if it's an actual symptom. Between upshifts it'll hesitate a half-second before the revs start to drop. Not huge, but makes shifts a little less smooth than I'd like unless I take them reaaaally slow. I've resigned to the fact that it could just be my (lack of) manual transmission driving ability though.
 
I'd bet if it doing it on the brakes that you have a vacum leak in either the supply to the booster or somewhere along that system. That is so typical of a vacum leak.
 
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