foxbodydave said:
well...the heads are not ported, but i do believe they have been epoxyed...i bought them used so i dont really know alot about them.
I would get them flowed, its not very expensive and it will help a ton in deciding on a cam. It may also tell you whether or not you need to have more port work done to them.
foxbodydave said:
what is the difference between a solid roller and i hydraulic roller? is the solid roller streetable? am i going to have to adjust any kind of valve lash after a certain number of miles?.
The "street" roller series cam that I was refering to is a relatively mild one, with respect to solid rollers. The ramp rates of the lobes are not very aggressive which allows for lower seat pressure of the springs and will also allow for longer life of the springs. The benefits of a solid roller are more RPM without valve float and a snappier throttle response. They will generally make more power. As for the adjusting of lash, If you get a good stud girdle you should have to make very few adjustments. But this depends on how much you drive the car, how often its seeing higher rpm's, and the spring pressures. So with that said, the cam that I mentioned should call for minimal adjustments if any over a summer. If this bothers you, you can contact Anderson Ford Motorsport, they have several "high rev" hydraulic rollers. But this can come with a higher price tag. Depending upon how high you are wanting to spin it, the springs, valves, retainers, etc. may have to be changed.
I have "street" solid roller (Custom cam from Cam Motion) in my own car, the spring pressure is 240 lbs on the seat, I have Pro-magnum rockers, a Jomar Stud Girdle, I shift at 7500 RPM and go thru the traps at 76-7700 and I have not had to make a single adjustment since I set it in the spring (end of April). The cam I mentioned is a bit milder, and should use a spring with seat pressures around 210 lbs. My cam for next year is not a "street" roller and will be way more aggressive (ramp rates) and will require around 300 lbs on the seat. This type of cam will need to be watched a bit more closely for lash adjustments. What size rocker studs are in your heads? If they are 3/8, you may want to look into having them machined for 7/16.
foxbodydave said:
the pistons are a diamond peice with the part number 32001. heres a link to them
http://www.diamondracing.net/Diamond2006.pdf.
The piston you have here P/N 32001 is for a 306, not a 347. If you are building a 347, I would need to know the rod length to figure it correctly, but I will assume you are going to t use a 3.4 stroke and a 5.400 rod. If this is the case you would need to use P/N 32011*, which with your heads (64cc chamber) would yield a 12:1 compression ratio. However, the figures they have shown are with a zero deck. If you want 12:1 you'll need to put the pistons .005" in the hole and use a head gasket with a compressed thickness of .039 (Felpro has this gasket, 4.100 gasket bore and .039 compressed thickness). This will give you a quench of .044". If you machine the block to zero deck, you'll need a thicker head gasket, somewhere in the .043-.044 compressed thickness.
If you are wanting to stay at the 10.5:1 compression ratio, I would use P/N 31011*. However, if you were to use the head gasket I mentioned above and the .005" in the hole, you would end up with only 9.94:1 because of the chamber size. If you could get them milled to a 60cc chamber, it would bring the compression up to 10.4:1 with everything else the same. Another way you could do this is run less quench, by taking the block to a zero deck and using a .035 compressed thickness gasket, which would yield 10.66:1. This (.035") is the lowest I would go with the quench when using a forged steel rod (again another assumtion). There are many ways to do this, but you need to decide what fuel you want to use and then pick a compression ratio.
foxbodydave said:
i was thinking about a proform 700. when i was working at ramchargers we sold a ton of these and never had any complaints....but im always up for suggestions
The 700 may end up being a bit on the small side, not by much, but still on the small end. The 750 should work great as the cfm requirements of a carb are based on RPM and cubic inch. If you choose to go on the lower RPM side of things, I would choose less intake (RPM Air-Gap), the 700cfm carb, and moderate Hydraulic roller. But this will impact power, meaning less power.
