High compression SBF considering *gasp* e85?

spdemon22

spdemon22

Forum Member
Just wanted to get your thoughts on this. A buddy of mine is tossing around ideas for his '95 Mustang, and at this point it looks like he's going to build an ~11.5:1 351, and try to rev the piss out of it at the same time. He wants it to be semi-streetable, so that's where the notion of e85 came about.

Has anyone done an e85 Mustang around here? What's tuning like?

Sub-question: 7K rpm 351 without spending $10K = pipe dream?

Lemme know if you need any specific information.
 
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all seem like fiarly reasonable goals. Buying the right parts the first time will be the reall trick.
 
shit i spun a stock 302 to 7 grand....lol its not a matter of if itll do it, its will the combo actually make power at 7k. being able to do that reliably is gonna be expensive. gonna have to lighten up the rotating assembly, and then match cam and intake and upgrade the valve train. shaft mount rockers would be a good idea and those are 1k right there. if you get really good deals on all used parts you my be able to do it.
 
foxbodydave said:
shit i spun a stock 302 to 7 grand....lol its not a matter of if itll do it, its will the combo actually make power at 7k. being able to do that reliably is gonna be expensive. gonna have to lighten up the rotating assembly, and then match cam and intake and upgrade the valve train. shaft mount rockers would be a good idea and those are 1k right there. if you get really good deals on all used parts you my be able to do it.
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if the peak is at 6800 ish with a tail off to 7k. That shouldn't take much of anything exotic. Standard budget rotator, Good heads, budget valvetrain. Sure it won't be uber reliable and most likely will break but it'll live for a good long time.
 
I know he's looking into solid lifters and lightweight pistons and whatnot. Really he should be in here to give you guys an idea what he's planning to use for internals, lol.

No ideas on e85? He was telling me that his tuner was hesitant about it because e85 gets finicky with changing weather.
 
spdemon22 said:
I know he's looking into solid lifters and lightweight pistons and whatnot. Really he should be in here to give you guys an idea what he's planning to use for internals, lol.

No ideas on e85? He was telling me that his tuner was hesitant about it because e85 gets finicky with changing weather.
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the blends change alot. but e85 itself should be fine. Also if he keeps it at 11:1 flat. He should be able to get by with pump fuel IF he pays attention to a bunch of stuff.

you won;t need anything exoctic for a 7000 rpm ceiling. above that things require a bit more thought. but its not rocket science.
 
Okay guys, I joined. Thanks for the comments already! Okay, so here is the build list so far. The only thing I have bought so far is the motor out of a '95 Econoline (and a billet steel 28.2oz flyhweel, BBK 1-3/4" long tube 351 swap ceramic headers, and a pair of NOS Ford Motorsport valve covers, I got a really good deal):

351W Block
Main support (possibly Trick Flow?)
Windage tray
AFR 205cc outlaw heads
Edelbrock Victor EFI intake
Comp 35-771-8 cam .608"intake/.614"exhaust lift 242/248 duration@050
Hartland Sharp 1.6 roller rockers (stud mount)
Hartland Sharp stud girdle
Comp solid roller lifters (the ones with the tie bar)
D.S.S. Extreme X 3cc flat top pistons

As far as the rest of the rotating assembly, I don't have that settled yet. Some say I should be able to use the stock connecting rods with ARP hardware and the stock crank. Others say definitely go all forged, H-beam and all. That's the $1100 dollar question.

At any rate, I definitely plan on getting the rotating assembly balanced when I have all the parts. And another note, I never plan on forced induction or N2O always N/A
 
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YLDPONY said:
Okay guys, I joined. Thanks for the comments already! Okay, so here is the build list so far. The only thing I have bought so far is the motor out of a '95 Econoline (and a billet steel 28.2oz flyhweel, BBK 1-3/4" long tube 351 swap ceramic headers, and a pair of NOS Ford Motorsport valve covers, I got a really good deal):

351W Block
Main support (possibly Trick Flow?)
Windage tray
AFR 205cc outlaw heads
Edelbrock Victor EFI intake
Comp 35-771-8 cam .608"intake/.614"exhaust lift 242/248 duration@050
Hartland Sharp 1.6 roller rockers (stud mount)
Hartland Sharp stud girdle
Comp solid roller lifters (the ones with the tie bar)
D.S.S. Extreme X 3cc flat top pistons

As far as the rest of the rotating assembly, I don't have that settled yet. Some say I should be able to use the stock connecting rods with ARP hardware and the stock crank. Others say definitely go all forged, H-beam and all. That's the $1100 dollar question.

At any rate, I definitely plan on getting the rotating assembly balanced when I have all the parts. And another note, I never plan on forced induction or N2O always N/A
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if you decide to go all forged. Build a 408. Cranks cost the same wether its a 3.5 or 4inch stroke.

I could put you together something very budget easy that would make good power and be pump gas friendly. So long as the block is good.

if your interested call me at the shop. I will put you in touch with the builder.

248-682-3840
 
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