Gotta 4.6l in 97 Cougar Extended Crank

G

got2boostit2

Forum Member
OK, these 4.6L motors are getting to me. 97 Cougar Xr-7 77k developed this extended crank when the temperture turned to plus 35* F. Crank 7-10 seconds and you have spark & fuel and she starts. This is getting to the point where it is creating a divide between my cousin and I.

I swapped the CCRM and no change. I checked the power fuses in the PDB and they are good. Fords diagnostics includes using breakout box (which I do not have) at the ECM to perform pin tests. I'm going to attempt to perform some pin tests in the ECM harness to verify a crank sensor signal first crank rotation.

Any other tips before I walk away even madder?

My cousin has been standing over me for a couple of weeks now. Having trouble balancing the relative, customer, friend relationship over this one.

Car sat for like two years before my cousin bought it in November. Kinda has a lot of rust but runs really well once started. Just has this 7-10 seconds before she lights up. HELP. Might have a case of your favorite beer in it if you can clear the forest so I can see the tree!

:cheers:
 
moneypit said:
see if the car is holding fuel pressure while sitting
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Pretty much confirmed it holds pressure. Here again is issue, with a spark tester and node light, no spark or injector pulse. Immediately has fuel pressure. If you just hold key in crank position engine will eventually show spark and injector pulse at which time it starts. But takes 7-12 seconds for indication of spark and injector pulse to appear each time.
 
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Darn, was sure looking for some "magic" on this one from the forum. Guess I have to pay a Ford expert to get this thing offa my property!!!!!!!
 
Well, I going to cut my losses on this POS. Installed a used oil pan to replace the rusty, leaking original oil pan. At the same time installed a new crank sensor, as the original one appeared to read bad. No fluctuating AC voltage. I've spent hours reading the wiring diagram which by the way SUCKS MONKEY BALLS-who wrote that shit? Jezz, such crap. Gotta have a pinout box and whatever Ford calls their funky ass diagnostic tool for everything!

Anyway, I cleaned several grounds, opened and checked the underhood ecm harness connector on the passenger side and guess what? The farking condition has changed, now when you go key on the cooling fan runs for 10-12 seconds, if you crank after the cooling fan cycles the farking car starts right up!!!!!! Go figure! But if you key on & go to crank right away it will be an extended crank. I'm not putting another hour of time into this rust bucket. Gonna advise my cousin to take it to someone else or the dealer to replace & reprogram the ECM it that is the problem.
 
Did you replace or update the crank sensor connector? Notorius for cuasing prolonged crank and no starts on that generation of 4.6. Dealer sells the part as do many auto parts stores.
 
Sean said:
Did you replace or update the crank sensor connector? Notorius for cuasing prolonged crank and no starts on that generation of 4.6. Dealer sells the part as do many auto parts stores.
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Sean, unaware of that issue. Connector appeared OK, tight terminals, etc. In my mind that doesn't explain the new symptom of cooling fan running key on and no start til the cooling fan cycles.
 
got2boostit2 said:
Sean, unaware of that issue. Connector appeared OK, tight terminals, etc. In my mind that doesn't explain the new symptom of cooling fan running key on and no start til the cooling fan cycles.
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Colling fan on during key up ? That sounds like the box is seeing corrupted memory.

Take the pcm out, wash it with some purified water and a tooth brush, blow dry with a air gun, clean with CRC, wire brush the grounds on the box and clean the pins on the harness connector.

sures sounds like water intrusion.
 
So to verify my oil pan change and get to operating temp, I drove the car around my test loop. Turned it off and 3 outta five starts occurred without cooling fan cycling.

Sean, good tip even tough the ecm connector doesn't show any signs of water intrusion nor did the circuit board in the ecm appear to be contaminated. Will see what happens when they come to pick this POS up. I'm done with it.
 
got2boostit2 said:
So to verify my oil pan change and get to operating temp, I drove the car around my test loop. Turned it off and 3 outta five starts occurred without cooling fan cycling.

Sean, good tip even tough the ecm connector doesn't show any signs of water intrusion nor did the circuit board in the ecm appear to be contaminated. Will see what happens when they come to pick this POS up. I'm done with it.
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Likely its moisture under the conformal coating. That stuff comes off pretty easy with a chemical I cannot think of right now. Personally I would dry it out and respray it with some form of sealant to keep moisture out of the circut board, a toaster oven on 150F works good if you let it bake for 15-20 minutes, just watch the connectors to make sure they don't get soft, should be ok the whole unit is automotive tempature rated for 115C which is like 265F.
 
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