GMT800 (00-06 Full Size Truck/SUV) Fuel Line Replacement tips & tricks?

[Atrus]

After a ruptured brake line on my '03 Yukon, I also want to replace the fuel lines for peace of mind.

Any tips or tricks? Looks like I need to pull the front driveshaft to get some room, and it looks like a PITA getting them up into the trans tunnel and the bracket secured to one of the trans bolts.

I rebuilt the entire braking system other than the master cylinder (looks like it's been replaced recently) and the ABS block this weekend. Not looking forward to this one either!

 

[smithet]

I'm dealing with this nightmare as well on my 02 Yukon. Ruptured brake line that runs above fuel tank feeding rear brakes. Hopefully someone has figured out some short cuts.

 

[Killjoy]

Been there, got the (expensive) t-shirt....

There's a GM Delco p/n for the complete replacement brake pipe kit. Mine was p/n 22932593. Check the Delco brochure for correct p/n fit. Should be ~$65 from RockAuto. Don't buy it from Amazon unless you like returning items and wasting your time.

My fuel lines looked just as bad as the brake lines, esp under the driver door frame rail area. I decided to just replace them as well at the same time. Went with Fine Line FL149DX, ~$200 from RA.

I had Rich (Detroit Gearbox) do mine. Glad I did, and he did a great job. If you have a hoist, plan on at least a full weekend. No hoist - good luck.

If you're going to replace the fuel lines as well, and you're over ~125k miles, and you haven't replaced the fuel pump yet - I might suggest you do that too while you're in there.

 

[dave89iroc]

Been there, got the (expensive) t-shirt....

There's a GM Delco p/n for the complete replacement brake pipe kit. Mine was p/n 22932593. Check the Delco brochure for correct p/n fit. Should be ~$65 from RockAuto. Don't buy it from Amazon unless you like returning items and wasting your time.

My fuel lines looked just as bad as the brake lines, esp under the driver door frame rail area. I decided to just replace them as well at the same time. Went with Fine Line FL149DX, ~$200 from RA.

I had Rich (Detroit Gearbox) do mine. Glad I did, and he did a great job. If you have a hoist, plan on at least a full weekend. No hoist - good luck.

If you're going to replace the fuel lines as well, and you're over ~125k miles, and you haven't replaced the fuel pump yet - I might suggest you do that too while you're in there.

Unless he gave you a super deal, about what did he charge you to do the lines? I'm looking for a ballpark

 

[Atrus]

I completed the brake line replacement this weekend. All seems well, but I won't know until I get it on the ground and drive it. It was a massive PITD...took all day Sat and most of the day on Sunday. I swapped out everything except the master cylinder and ABS block. All new lines, hoses, calipers, and rotors. I ended up removing the body bolts on the driver's side, loosening them on the passenger side, and lifting the body a couple of inches for extra clearance. I don't have a hoist - just a stubborn attitude and a cheap outlook on repairs.

I used the Delco 22932593 off Amazon for the brake lines. Still mild steel, but vinyl coated. I paid something like $65 + tax (I have prime so free shipping), but it looks like it's $55 + tax right now. No real complaints about Amazon or the product - worked decently. I don't think any other kit would have been less of a pain.

I also picked up the replacement fuel lines - Delco 15207074 - for $300 including tax. I have FlexFuel (VIN Z) so I needed this more expensive set. Otherwise, they are under $200 for the non-flex fuel kit.

Realistically, I'm hoping to get 4-5 years out of this pig, so as long as they hold up well for that amount of time, I am good.

I did replace my fuel pump back in April. I picked this truck up in Feb, and soon learned the pump was weak. Started and ran fine if I had more than 10 gallons in the tank. As soon as it got below that, it wouldn't want to start. If already running, it would run past that level, but wouldn't start.

If someone needs the instructions on the fuel lines, I have the GM service manual instructions handy. I was hoping someone had done these first hand that could give some tips, similar to lifting the body a little for more clearance.

 

[Atrus]

Would also be interested to know what he charged for them all - hopefully will make me feel a little better about spending this much time and headache fixing this thing!

 

[Atrus]

And, FWIW...these things literally crumbled apart under the driver's door when I started to remove. I believe both feed lines (front and rear) to the ABS block blew out at the same time.

 

[4Gas$]

I too have been through this more times than I care to remember.

As others have already said, best to replace all lines at once, brake,
gas & trans. Not a bad idea to also replace fuel pump while you're
at it too.

Yes its a lot of work, but when its done.....its done! One more thing,
use a very good quality line. I bought some kind of "premium" tube
line that was very flexible and flared & sealed beautifully. I bought it
at NAPA at M50 Truck Repair in Dundee (across from Cabela's).

 

[beertestr]

I did the $65 AC Delco brake pipe kit and had New Age Garage install it, a new hard line on the axle and all the hoses. I did trans cooler lines myself. Fuel line, I only repaired what was soft, which was only the hard line from the plastic quick connect to the filter and about 10" in front. All the rest of the line was in really good shape. It would be nice if there was an AC Delco kit for the fuel lines but nothing yet.
Last set for me is the oil cooler lines (1500HD) but it's more of the typical crimp leaks than anything else.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

 

[Killjoy]

Unless he gave you a super deal, about what did he charge you to do the lines? I'm looking for a ballpark

I don't want to get my DGB frequent flyer card revoked, so I'll let Rich reply as I know he LOVES doing these (not)! I'd honestly have to go pull the receipt as he did mine over 2 years ago. And as others have said, this job quickly winds up with additional unplanned work once you're into it. e.g. brake hoses, the metal fuel tank fill tube, etc.

No real complaints about Amazon or the product - worked decently. I don't think any other kit would have been less of a pain.

We have identical trucks. I ordered that brake pipe kit from Amazon originally as I'm also Prime and have had good luck with sourcing Delco parts from them. They literally shipped me one of the tubes from the kit, not all of tubes contained within the kit. Called them, they issued an exchange and shipped me another kit even before I shipped this one back. 2nd one got here - same thing - one brake tube, not the kit of 8-10 tubes. Just returned it and got it from RA - no problems.

 

[Atrus]

We have identical trucks. I ordered that brake pipe kit from Amazon originally as I'm also Prime and have had good luck with sourcing Delco parts from them. They literally shipped me one of the tubes from the kit, not all of tubes contained within the kit. Called them, they issued an exchange and shipped me another kit even before I shipped this one back. 2nd one got here - same thing - one brake tube, not the kit of 8-10 tubes. Just returned it and got it from RA - no problems.

Wow, crazy. Mine shipped perfectly the first time.

Managed to get the fuel lines mostly out last night. The smaller line (return?) that connects to the plastic hose at the tank is giving me trouble. I just cut it for now to get the rest of the lines out. I have over 3/4 tank in the pig right now so I really don't want to drop the tank to get to those plastic connections. The larger line came off easily and had the semi-transparent greenish fitting that sticks out of the fitting where you squeeze the two tabs. I believe the other line may use the connection requiring the disconnect tool, which I need to get a new one. I don't think mine is long enough as I shaved it down length-wise to get the fuel filter off a few months back. The setup looks to be more internal to the fitting, and is a blue color.

Ultimately, I am glad I am doing these fuel lines too - they weren't terrible, but they were rusting up pretty well on the horizontal run over the transmission, and the nut for the fuel filter was totally locked up. When I replaced the filter in Feb, I just spun the filter off of it.

That nut on the bellhousing holding the bracket wasn't that bad actually, once I figured out how to get to it. Ended up using a long 24"ish (the long Harbor freight set) 1/4" extension with a 13mm deep well socket. That section went above the fuel lines running horizontal next to the trans and in front of the trans crossmember. Used a 3/8 to 1/4 converter and a universal joint, and then ran a 24" ish 3/8" drive extension down at about a 45* angle. Came right off. Did require me to remove the driveshaft.

Not looking forward to re installation...I hope it goes smoothly but I have a feeling it'll be a huge PITA trying to negotiate the pre-bent lines in.

From first glance, my trans lines looked pretty good - maybe they had been replaced at some point. Truck has 126k on it, so it could be likely they leaked before. I picked it up in Feb with 123k on it. I'll look it all over really well once I get the critical stuff back in. I need this thing operable for Friday.

 

[4Gas$]

On my 2005 Tahoe, the top of the fuel tank was where the lines rusted the most (and started to leak).

The area around the fuel pump on the top of the gas tank is recessed and tends to hold water and
mud etc and rusts pretty bad right where the steel lines connect to the plastic.

 

[Atrus]

When I replaced the pump in Feb, it was pretty grody around it. It actually worked to my advantage because the retainer ring was so rusty I literally broke it apart with a cold chisel. I am trying to remember how I disconnected the plastic lines back then....whether I pulled them off the metal pump fittings and left them on the truck (I think this is what I did) or whether I disconnected them up at that crossmember and brought them back with the tank. I think I just disconnected from the pump and left the plastic lines dangling from the truck.

Does anyone know if the plastic return line has a different fitting style than the feed line where it meets the steel line at the front of the tank? The feed line I was able to squeeze the two tabs on that insert and disconnect it. The return, I can't see or feel any tabs protruding from the fitting. Wondering if it needs that disconnect tool.

 

[Killjoy]

I am trying to remember how I disconnected the plastic lines back then....whether I pulled them off the metal pump fittings and left them on the truck (I think this is what I did) or whether I disconnected them up at that crossmember and brought them back with the tank. I think I just disconnected from the pump and left the plastic lines dangling from the truck.

When I did my fuel pump, I disconnected both lines at the cross member at the front of the tank first - where the plastic lines transition to hard line headed to the front of the truck. Both connectors are fairly accessible, but must be disconnected blindly when laying below the tank looking up. I don't know how you would have disconnected them at the pump first unless somehow the plastic lines came out of their "holders" on the top of the tank and gave you the required clearance to drop the tank to the ground.

Does anyone know if the plastic return line has a different fitting style than the feed line where it meets the steel line at the front of the tank? The feed line I was able to squeeze the two tabs on that insert and disconnect it. The return, I can't see or feel any tabs protruding from the fitting. Wondering if it needs that disconnect tool.

Both the feed and return lines are identical connectors, both at the pump-to-plastic & plastic-to-body-hardline points, both standard quick disconnects (tool required), and both have the standard GM plastic "cage" thingy-bobs, with nylon washers on the inside of the fuel pipe. The only difference between the two pipes is the diameter/size. I think if you have a good disconnect tool with lips that are long enough, should come right apart - no problems. It's just the doing it blind part that sucked. I used my phone's camera to help see around the top corner a bit, which helped (esp when putting it back together).

 

[Killjoy]

Plastic-to-Metal Pipe Connectors at the Front Cross Member. These are the old ones shown at disassembly, return line off, and working on the main feed line.

Same Front Cross Member Quick Disconnects, Now Disconnected. One of the washers stuck with the return pipe when disconnected.

Inside of the Fuel Tank Plastic fuel lines - yellow nylon washer.

Re-assembly with new white plastic cages installed

 

[Atrus]

Thanks, Killjoy. I figured out the issue last night. My return connector is fubar'd. The tabs were broken off, and when I used a screwdriver to pop the metal line out, a chunk of the internal part of the connector came with it - it's fused to the hard line.

When I replaced the pump, I must have disconnected at the pump when the tank was dangling and let the nylon lines remain connected to the truck.

I'll have to either repair/rebuild the line, or hit up some yard to see if a good set is available. I'd like to get a good complete used replacement set versus repair, so I'll start there.