FYI: E-Coating in Romulus - HELL YEA

monster.

monster.

Club Member
Just passing this on for you guys. REDI-COAT can chemically strip pretty much anything (car, chassis, doors, parts, etc.) up to 13'6" then apply PPG epoxy primer electronicly all of this done by using a dipping technique.

I'm thinking about doing this to my notch, to address any rust in those pesky front frame rails. Then I was going to prep and paint it myself.

Click the linky link for more info.

Best - Dave
 
E-coat is what the OEM's currently use for underbody rust prevention on their cars. It is very effective, I believe I was told it was good for a 900 hour continous salt spray test. The place I talked to was in Muskegon, MI and it was very reasonably priced from what I remember. I plan on doing it with my project car if I ever get that far on it :)
 
blackbolt9 said:
E-coat is what the OEM's currently use for underbody rust prevention on their cars. It is very effective, I believe I was told it was good for a 900 hour continous salt spray test. The place I talked to was in Muskegon, MI and it was very reasonably priced from what I remember. I plan on doing it with my project car if I ever get that far on it :)
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E-coat (Cathodic electroplating or electrocoating) is a primer. Nothing more. The OEM's use it because it is cheap and provides a decent surface to paint on. It can be applied up to ~1mil thick (.001"). Most often it is applied at approximately 0.7mils (.0007"). Typically you can get ~480 hours out of it in a continuous salt spray. However, continuous salt spray chambers do not provide a very realistic performance which is why the OEM's are now leaning towards cyclic testing for validation.

If you could find a place that could provide an Autophoretic coating (A-coat), it would be best to use that. The oxidation protection is better and can coat in and around moving parts without bridging (bridging causes binding of hinges and other moving parts. It's also different from e-coat in that it's cure temps are low enough that rubberized parts can be coated without destroying them.

Just some food for thought.
 
QuickLX said:
E-coat (Cathodic electroplating or electrocoating) is a primer. Nothing more. The OEM's use it because it is cheap and provides a decent surface to paint on. It can be applied up to ~1mil thick (.001"). Most often it is applied at approximately 0.7mils (.0007"). Typically you can get ~480 hours out of it in a continuous salt spray. However, continuous salt spray chambers do not provide a very realistic performance which is why the OEM's are now leaning towards cyclic testing for validation.

If you could find a place that could provide an Autophoretic coating (A-coat), it would be best to use that. The oxidation protection is better and can coat in and around moving parts without bridging (bridging causes binding of hinges and other moving parts. It's also different from e-coat in that it's cure temps are low enough that rubberized parts can be coated without destroying them.

Just some food for thought.
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Thanks for the additional information. I was originally looking at it because of how thin of a coat it is, which allows for parts inspection at weld joints on things like control arms and k-members.

I am confused by your thickness numbers though, 1 mil (short for millimeter) would actually be 0.03937" and 0.7 mil would be 0.027559". 0.001" would be 1 thou (one thousandth of an inch) and 0.0007" would be 7 tenths (7 ten thousandths of an inch) obviously a huge difference, but from the research I did I am assuming you meant between 7 tenths and 1 thou, not 0.7 and 1 mil.
 
blackbolt9 said:
Thanks for the additional information. I was originally looking at it because of how thin of a coat it is, which allows for parts inspection at weld joints on things like control arms and k-members.

I am confused by your thickness numbers though, 1 mil (short for millimeter) would actually be 0.03937" and 0.7 mil would be 0.027559". 0.001" would be 1 thou (one thousandth of an inch) and 0.0007" would be 7 tenths (7 ten thousandths of an inch) obviously a huge difference, but from the research I did I am assuming you meant between 7 tenths and 1 thou, not 0.7 and 1 mil.
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1 mil is a unit of length equal to one thousandth (10-3) of an inch (0.0254 millimeter)
 
Pwraddr said:
Not trying to be a dick, but 1 mil is not = 1mm. Sorry. BTW, Powertrain Engineer, so automotive.
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Not trying to be a dick but that must be why my last job's 3D data didn't match the 2D print and I have to redesign the block it fits to.

And yes 1 mil is one millimeter, aeronautical engineering degree to go with the work experience BTW...
 
Not going to get into a dick measuring contest regarding educational background......But since someone brought it up......I win, trust me ;)

Now as for the unit of measurement "mil". IT IS NOT AND NEVER WILL BE RELATED TO MILLIMETERS! People that use the term "mil" in reference to "millimeters" are just lazy. It's no different than punk kids saying "late" instead of "later".

1 mil is equal to .001", end of story. But since there is obviously some confusion, I will explain further.

The unit "mil", is used to measure thickness, specifcally coatings (paints, etc.) and films. Hell its even used for garbage bag thicknesses. You mean to tell me that if you looked at a box of garbage bags and read "1.4 mils", you would think that those bags were 1.4 millimeters thick? Man, I hope not. LOL
 
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QuickLX said:
Not going to get into a dick measuring contest regarding educational background......But since someone brought it up......I win, trust me ;)

Now as for the unit of measurement "mil". IT IS NOT AND NEVER WILL BE RELATED TO MILLIMETERS! People that use the term "mil" in reference to "millimeters" are just lazy. It's no different than punk kids saying "late" instead of "later".

1 mil is equal to .001", end of story. But since there is obviously some confusion, I will explain further.

The unit "mil", is used to measure thickness, specifcally coatings (paints, etc.) and films. Hell its even used for garbage bag thicknesses. You mean to tell me that if you looked at a box of garbage bags and read "1.4 mils", you would think that those bags were 1.4 millimeters thick? Man, I hope not. LOL
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:werd:
 
Ask a machinist to cut a mil off a part and see how much is gone when you get it back. I am going to guarantee you it won't be 0.001". Or ask a machine builder to take a mil of shim out, the adjustment won't be 0.001" either. Think what you want and keep reading and referencing your books but in the tool and die / manufacturing industry that actually build something 1 mil = 1 millimeter.

That is all.
 
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QuickLX said:
1 mil is equal to .001", end of story. But since there is obviously some confusion, I will explain further.

The unit "mil", is used to measure thickness, specifcally coatings (paints, etc.) and films. Hell its even used for garbage bag thicknesses. You mean to tell me that if you looked at a box of garbage bags and read "1.4 mils", you would think that those bags were 1.4 millimeters thick? Man, I hope not. LOL
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This is correct.

<-- Paint equipment manufacturer ;)
 
blackbolt9 said:
Ask a machinist to cut a mil off a part and see how much is gone when you get it back. I am going to guarantee you it won't be 0.001". Or ask a machine builder to take a mil of shim out, the adjustment won't be 0.001" either. Think what you want and keep reading and referencing your books but in the tool and die / manufacturing industry that actually build something 1 mil = 1 millimeter.

That is all.
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Ok, you need to understand that your life experiences as grand and unique as they may seem to you, really aren't that rare or significant when looking at the big picture. So, please also understand that the things you say can be used against you in the support of another's defense as they may too have similar experiences.

So, with that being said..... I deal directly with those in tool and die on a daily basis (My familiy has been in the field for nealry 70 years). For one, if you bring something to them in Millimeters, they are likely to cut your nuts off. Secondly, for the most part I don't believe it would be good practice to go to a machinist and verbally ask for an amount in any unit to be removed from a detail or part. This is just asking for problems and this is why prints are used. Also, you will never see on ANY print, the unit "mil" used for a dimensional call-out. Again, it is for thicknesses of paints, films, etc., that is it.

The problem here is, you are taking field (more likely to be shop or person to person) specific slang and trying to give it a factual basis that supports your arguement in an effort to save face. Not working BTW.

The more you argue about this, it just keeps solidifying the fact that you had and have no clue about the term "mil", it's relavent usage, or the topic which you felt compelled to comment on.

Just stating facts here, so let it go and stop cluttering a decent thread with misleading information.

BTW 1mm = 1 Millimeter, 1 mil = .001 inch, 1 mil = 25.4 = Micrometers, etc., but 1 mil will never = 1mm or 1 Millimeter.
 
QuickLX said:
Ok, you need to understand that your life experiences as grand and unique as they may seem to you, really aren't that rare or significant when looking at the big picture. So, please also understand that the things you say can be used against you in the support of another's defense as they may too have similar experiences.

So, with that being said..... I deal directly with those in tool and die on a daily basis (My familiy has been in the field for nealry 70 years). For one, if you bring something to them in Millimeters, they are likely to cut your nuts off. Secondly, for the most part I don't believe it would be good practice to go to a machinist and verbally ask for an amount in any unit to be removed from a detail or part. This is just asking for problems and this is why prints are used. Also, you will never see on ANY print, the unit "mil" used for a dimensional call-out. Again, it is for thicknesses of paints, films, etc., that is it.

The problem here is, you are taking field (more likely to be shop or person to person) specific slang and trying to give it a factual basis that supports your arguement in an effort to save face. Not working BTW.

The more you argue about this, it just keeps solidifying the fact that you had and have no clue about the term "mil", it's relavent usage, or the topic which you felt compelled to comment on.

Just stating facts here, so let it go and stop cluttering a decent thread with misleading information.

BTW 1mm = 1 Millimeter, 1 mil = .001 inch, 1 mil = 25.4 = Micrometers, etc., but 1 mil will never = 1mm or 1 Millimeter.
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Laughing....This is why I pastd all the links above. Somebody that doesn't know any better thinks this guy is right and makes himself look like a clown when he says it later.......damn misinformation!

Thanks Steve and really well written.

Carry on Gents.
Keith
 
QuickLX said:
Ok, you need to understand that your life experiences as grand and unique as they may seem to you, really aren't that rare or significant when looking at the big picture. So, please also understand that the things you say can be used against you in the support of another's defense as they may too have similar experiences.

So, with that being said..... I deal directly with those in tool and die on a daily basis (My familiy has been in the field for nealry 70 years). For one, if you bring something to them in Millimeters, they are likely to cut your nuts off. Secondly, for the most part I don't believe it would be good practice to go to a machinist and verbally ask for an amount in any unit to be removed from a detail or part. This is just asking for problems and this is why prints are used. Also, you will never see on ANY print, the unit "mil" used for a dimensional call-out. Again, it is for thicknesses of paints, films, etc., that is it.

The problem here is, you are taking field (more likely to be shop or person to person) specific slang and trying to give it a factual basis that supports your arguement in an effort to save face. Not working BTW.

The more you argue about this, it just keeps solidifying the fact that you had and have no clue about the term "mil", it's relavent usage, or the topic which you felt compelled to comment on.

Just stating facts here, so let it go and stop cluttering a decent thread with misleading information.

BTW 1mm = 1 Millimeter, 1 mil = .001 inch, 1 mil = 25.4 = Micrometers, etc., but 1 mil will never = 1mm or 1 Millimeter.
Click to expand...

Apparently we won't come to an agreement on this because I have never heard 1 mil used to describe 0.001" in the tool and die or machine building industries. Argue all you want about what is appropriate but I live in the real world.
 
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