Found this in my oil filter housing......PLEASE HELP! 2005 Powerstroke.

SuperStang90 said:
I beg to differ, but your statement doesnt necessarily run true. I have a buddy that had a mint 03, granted 150k miles but it was a POS. He fixed everything that you stated, including the egr, stand pipes, ect and it still ran like shit. New FICM, new IPR and it would never run right. everytime he'd fix it it would run ok for a bit but then end up doing the same thing but worse everytime. IMO its an engine that is not worth the headache. Shit you cant even safely put a tuner on it without having to do headstuds and gaskets. Save yourself the grief and stick with a 7.3
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Nothing against you or the dude but my opinion is you guys weren't doing it right when fixing it. Head studs are not needed, nor are head gaskets as long as you take the egr cooler off, switch the coolant over and don't have some wild tune on it. The entire head gasket issue with those things. When the oil cooler finally plugs an starves the egr cooler coolant flow it cracks it, puts coolant in the engine, water doesn't compress so somethings gotta break and the gasket is the weak link. Most retards just change the egr cooler and go ok its fixed... Well guess what unless you changed the oil cooler the bitch is just gunna do it again because that's the inital problem the Egr cooler is a after effect to the problem. Then if you put that shitty ford gold coolant back in there its going to happen all over again at some point. International has that motor in a million other platforms and none have the same concerns as the ford packaged motor. International also specs a very different coolant for all the engines, Ford had to use there own and that is the number one cause for the blockages in the oil cooler next to casting slag, due to the coolant system arrangement when the oil cooler coolant side plugs up it starves the egr cooler, not enough pressure/flow of coolant due to the blocked and the shit boils inside the egr cooler and cracks it.

To me it sounds like you've never owned one and you read on a bunch of boards from Felix and the gang about how crappy they think the 6.0's are, when just like you prob 50% don't own one, and never have... That's like me saying I don't like to beat up some Pu**y and being a virgin at the same time. All the crap your saying is the typical internet bashing hype on the 6.0's its all horse shit.

The only time people hop on here an bitch is when shit is wrong, people don't come on here to post a thread and go hey I have a 175k mile 6.0 truck that has only the above mentioned work done and it runs flawless, starts everyday without issues, never has had the head gaskets or factory head bolts touched, hell its still got the orginial glow plugs in it and fires up every day in -10 weather without being plugged in. My 7.3 truck wouldn't start in 20 degree weather without it being plugged in and when it did mofo would romp for a hr until the oil heated up
 
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sofa king said:
Yep, I didn't see EGR delete in your list of things to do...But I would certainly do this before putting it back in the truck.

I know a guy who has a 6.0L truck, did EGR delete on it last year because its had a few under warranty. Once warranty was out and it needed it again, it was deleted. He drives it a lot, cross country, trailers, all sorts of stuff, works good for him, but I think he is always worrying when something is going to crap out.
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He needs to change the oil cooler and flush the cooling system then run a fleet diesel coolant in it. Wont ever have a problem after that.
 
Billydroveit said:
Shouldnt have to fix a 50K$ truck, i think was his point. THe cost of all the things listed are 5K or more to PAY to have someone do it, thats unacceptable. You already paid 50K for a NEW truck, why should it need updates to be reliable???

My parents have one, and it runs great, all they use it for is towing a 12K pound trailer cross country once a year, and locally every other weekend. So far so good, but i knock on wood alot!
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Guy that I work with has a 120k 06' 6.0 its was all stock until recently btw he tows with it all the time, his boat, camper etc. BUT!!! He also is the most meticulous person i have ever meet when it comes to maintaining stuff and keeping it clean. His truck has had zero issues what so ever outside of needing glow plugs, which are at there service interval round 100k
 
do not use the K&N filter. stock is all it needs.

6.0 needs to be beaten on too. if you never get into boost and pussy foot it everywhere the veins on the turbo with stick, next time you lean on it, it WILL overboost and pop goes the headgasket.

motorcraft oil and fuel filters ONLY period end of story.
there is a video on youtube showing the difference between motorcraft and aftermarket filters.

dont tow 25k pounds with a race/performance only chip/tune. your asking for trouble and its kinda stupid anyway.

i had a banks 6 gun and beat the fuck outta it.
egr deleted, CAT coolant, replaced oil cooler when the egr was deleted, updated fuel pressure spring( yea, look into it ), 4" stainless exhaust, downpipe to tail pipe.

when one injector goes, replace them all!

OP should have contacted our FORD rep trunkton, he knows a guy that is a master 6.0 tech.
 
Anthony said:
wow, what a insightful response, do you have anything else to add? maybe something to sell?
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lol


On another note.... Anthony, i also heard bad things about the K&N Cold air kit so i deceided to give them a call. I spoke with Steven Dubois there and he reassured me that their product was tested to the max. He also told me that they obtain very fine grain sand from a certain part of Arizona to do the tests. check em out....he also told me if anyone has any questions or concers to feel free to give them a call and they can back everything up.

http://www.knfilters.com/dynocharts/RC-5178.pdf (Air test)

http://www.knfilters.com/dynocharts/57-2546_dyno.pdf (dyno)

One thing i could ask you is whats the deal with the Ford coolant? Mine looked like brand new when i drained it out and the truck has 190,000 miles on it. Is the Ford gold stuff really bad?
 
igotaneed4speed said:
I find it funny people hating on the 6.0 and id bet u dont own one. They are very good engines if you correct the packaging concerns ford made. Egr cooler has to go, updated stand offs, orings in the oil manifolds, update turbo oil lines and the fuel pressure fixes. Change it over to a quality fleet coolant and youll never have a issue with that engine. 90% of break downs on diesels come from lack of or improper maitnance.
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This is the first time we've had ANY issues with our 6.0 truck and still love it! My 7.3L is a workhorse but the 6.0 is a way smoother/ quiet running engine with tons of power.
It was my fault for having a Quick lube do my last oil change and not checking to see if they used a Motorcraft filter.

Trunk, I agree 100%....maintain the diesel engine or it will cost big $$ . Only good thing to come outta this is i learned the hard way but now i can wrench on diesel trucks.
 
fiveohcrazy said:
One thing i could ask you is whats the deal with the Ford coolant? Mine looked like brand new when i drained it out and the truck has 190,000 miles on it. Is the Ford gold stuff really bad?
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The Ford coolant isn't designed to be used in the International engine. I don't know about the 6.0, but the 7.3 had an issue with the coolant cavitating and damaging the engine. I looked in the 7.3 owner's manual, and they had you constantly monitoring the condition of the coolant and adding SCA's at some pretty short intervals. I switched to the Fleetrite coolant (which I believe is International's brand), because its made for diesel engines, and you don't have to change it every 30,000 miles.
 
fiveohcrazy said:
lol


On another note.... Anthony, i also heard bad things about the K&N Cold air kit so i deceided to give them a call. I spoke with Steven Dubois there and he reassured me that their product was tested to the max. He also told me that they obtain very fine grain sand from a certain part of Arizona to do the tests. check em out....he also told me if anyone has any questions or concers to feel free to give them a call and they can back everything up.

http://www.knfilters.com/dynocharts/RC-5178.pdf (Air test)

http://www.knfilters.com/dynocharts/57-2546_dyno.pdf (dyno)

One thing i could ask you is whats the deal with the Ford coolant? Mine looked like brand new when i drained it out and the truck has 190,000 miles on it. Is the Ford gold stuff really bad?
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I don't care what k&n said. You been officially warned!


Coolant looks ok, that's not the problem, it's the shit in it that solidifies and builds up on the oil and Egr coolers, eventually the clog solid. When I had mine replaced there was a pile of them there, all clogged.
You need a ELC coolant. Actually, now that it's had gold crap in in, you need the system flushed, and not regular flushed, it's a two step process that any competent dealer will know about. It's DESIGNED to remove all the crap ford gold leaves behind.

Do this, call Stanford, ask for his buddy Matt's phone number, then call him and listen. I won't get into any more on a public forum.

Do eeeeit
 
Wix actually makes a really good, inexpensive($140ish) replacement for the stock airbox that takes an upgraded Wix filter too. My Wix rep told me they will actually warranty it against issues if you run a Wix filter in it too. Just some food for thought if you don't want to do a K&N.
 
fiveohcrazy said:
lol


On another note.... Anthony, i also heard bad things about the K&N Cold air kit so i deceided to give them a call. I spoke with Steven Dubois there and he reassured me that their product was tested to the max. He also told me that they obtain very fine grain sand from a certain part of Arizona to do the tests. check em out....he also told me if anyone has any questions or concers to feel free to give them a call and they can back everything up.

http://www.knfilters.com/dynocharts/RC-5178.pdf (Air test)

http://www.knfilters.com/dynocharts/57-2546_dyno.pdf (dyno)

One thing i could ask you is whats the deal with the Ford coolant? Mine looked like brand new when i drained it out and the truck has 190,000 miles on it. Is the Ford gold stuff really bad?
Click to expand...

Anthony said:
I don't care what k&n said. You been officially warned!


Coolant looks ok, that's not the problem, it's the shit in it that solidifies and builds up on the oil and Egr coolers, eventually the clog solid. When I had mine replaced there was a pile of them there, all clogged.
You need a ELC coolant. Actually, now that it's had gold crap in in, you need the system flushed, and not regular flushed, it's a two step process that any competent dealer will know about. It's DESIGNED to remove all the crap ford gold leaves behind.

Do this, call Stanford, ask for his buddy Matt's phone number, then call him and listen. I won't get into any more on a public forum.

Do eeeeit
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Do not change the factory filter out for a K&N. There is no performance or Mpg gain what so ever unless your truck makes 700 hp but there will be a pocket book loss when your buying a new turbo. I have a low mileage take off one, call me about 50k after you put that filter on and I'll give ya a deal on it.


I agree 100% on the ELC coolant, If you look up internationals fleet coolant requirements they list for all equipment (other than the F250) the ELC. Stuffs kinda expensive I think I paid 25 a gallon and if you do a full flush and drain the block your going to need about 7 gallons 50/50 mix to fill it backup. Do not just switch the coolants over, you have to do as Anthony said and flush the system. I used a restore product when i did mine then filled the system a few times with distilled water and drove it around to make sure I got everything out. The slug and crap that comes out the block when you pull the block drains its some pretty gooey nasty crap and then it all makes sense why these thing plug up coolers with that coolant.
 
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igotaneed4speed said:
Do not change the factory filter out for a K&N. There is no performance or Mpg gain what so ever unless your truck makes 700 hp but there will be a pocket book loss when your buying a new turbo. I have a low mileage take off one, call me about 50k after you put that filter on and I'll give ya a deal on it.


I agree 100% on the ELC coolant, If you look up internationals fleet coolant requirements they list for all equipment (other than the F250) the ELC. Stuffs kinda expensive I think I paid 25 a gallon and if you do a full flush and drain the block your going to need about 7 gallons 50/50 mix to fill it backup. Do not just switch the coolants over, you have to do as Anthony said and flush the system. I used a restore product when i did mine then filled the system a few times with distilled water and drove it around to make sure I got everything out. The slug and crap that comes out the block when you pull the block drains its some pretty gooey nasty crap and then it all makes sense why these thing plug up coolers with that coolant.
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Bought the VC-9 flush from ford.......gonna run it for an hour @ 1500RPMS.......drain system/block. flush with Simple Green.......distilled water.....then fill with Amsoil antifreeze. http://www.amsoil.com/catalog.aspx?code=ant1g-ea&oz=1771292 It's a little expensive but is made to last 750,000 miles in on the road diesel vehicles. As for the K&N intake...........already bought it ....if it tears the turbo up ...just another reason to buy a new Bullseye turbo. LOL No in all actuallity i'll report back and let you guys know if in fact i see any damage to the turbo caused by the K&N. It's almost new right now and has zero play/damage. If in fact i do find an issue....i'll be making K&N buy me a new turbo (prolly not..but sounded good). They 100% assured me their product had more research and development than the ford unit and i'd be impressed with the gain in milage and 15HP. We'll see. (i'm the guinea pig)
 
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