Ford ECM replacement with P.A.T.S ?

Boomer!

Boomer!

Club Member
My old ladies mini van needs a new ECM. I am not sure how to get around the PATS system or what needs to be done to the ignition keys or ecm to them them compatible... Any help ????? I am lost, before I hunt down the ecm I thought I should get a quick rundown.

Thanks !!!!!
 
needds pcm ? Thats pretty rare the EEC V systems have been stone reliable. I would check for connector corosion and power and ground before getting anywhere near that diagnosys.

You will need a Ford Star tester to program the PATS
 
ReiKo said:
What's the van doing?
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Out of nowhere ABS flashing, air bag light flashing, traction control flashing also they were also unable to read trouble codes or make a connection through the obd2 port. The ecm was just a stab made by a buddy, he said it would be a moon shoot to have so many systems crash all at once, this all happened the same day along with intermittent stumble/miss and hesitation.
 
Now even the O/D is flashing. I am going to go through the system and see if I have a bad ground near the battery or something.... I don't know I am lost and really don't have the money to fix this turd right now, so any advice is appreciated....
 
Remove the PCM and check for water infiltration. Also clean the pcm connector and all of the engine bay grounds. Bet it is one of those 2. If the pcm is water infiltrated clean it up seal everything up with a touch of silicone and dielectric grease and lightly use a small fine wire brush to remove any corrosion you find.


Boomer! said:
Now even the O/D is flashing. I am going to go through the system and see if I have a bad ground near the battery or something.... I don't know I am lost and really don't have the money to fix this turd right now, so any advice is appreciated....
Click to expand...
 
Sean said:
Remove the PCM and check for water infiltration. Also clean the pcm connector and all of the engine bay grounds. Bet it is one of those 2. If the pcm is water infiltrated clean it up seal everything up with a touch of silicone and dielectric grease and lightly use a small fine wire brush to remove any corrosion you find.
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Thanks, I am going to check them. I was just on the phone with another friend that actual owns a shop. He master tech said some of it is a wheel sensor, I am going to figure out which one is bad somehow and replace it or both fronts to start. We'll take the rest from there....

Thanks and +1
 
Did all this happen at once? It could be a few seperate concerns. It's common for the front abs sensor tone rings to crack on the outer cv joint causing abs and t/c lights. There is a fuse for the diagnostic connector, so make sure it's good or else you won't be able to communicate with any modules. I have found a few of these vans with a water leak in the left front kick panel area causing bad corrosion in the wiring connectors down there, and you might want to unplug them to check for damaged terminals inside. It may very well be a poor ground causing it all, but not a faulty pcm.
 
JoeP. said:
Did all this happen at once? It could be a few seperate concerns. It's common for the front abs sensor tone rings to crack on the outer cv joint causing abs and t/c lights. There is a fuse for the diagnostic connector, so make sure it's good or else you won't be able to communicate with any modules. I have found a few of these vans with a water leak in the left front kick panel area causing bad corrosion in the wiring connectors down there, and you might want to unplug them to check for damaged terminals inside. It may very well be a poor ground causing it all, but not a faulty pcm.
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Thanks for the reply,

I replaced the abs sensors and didn't see any cracks on the rings. I was told the VSS could be the cause as the abs sensors did nothing but cost money. When it gets a little warmer and I buy a new jack I am going to try the VSS and double check the abs rings.

I did also pull the fuse panel under the dash and under the hood and found no bad fuses. I went through all the grounds and power feeds with a volt/ohm meter and found everything to be good. I am going to just blow this turd up, I have had enough with everything about it....

The suggestions are great and appreciated greatly, hopefully I find the problem soon. I am sick of my old lady bugging me about it and I am ready to strangle her. She has dumb asses telling her the master cylinder is bad and all sorts of funny solutions to problems that we are not even having. Obviously electronics are not my strong point or this would be solved.
 
No problem. If you can bring it by the dealership one day I'd be willing to hook up the proper equipment and try to get 'ya pointed in the right direction. I'm at Gene Butman Ford in Ypsilanti, which may be a haul for you, but I'll work cheap(beer?). I may not be able to spend a bunch of time on it, but maybe we can find something. PM me if you need a hand! -Joe
 
JoeP. said:
No problem. If you can bring it by the dealership one day I'd be willing to hook up the proper equipment and try to get 'ya pointed in the right direction. I'm at Gene Butman Ford in Ypsilanti, which may be a haul for you, but I'll work cheap(beer?). I may not be able to spend a bunch of time on it, but maybe we can find something. PM me if you need a hand! -Joe
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Thanks for the offer, that is far more than anyone could ever expect. I cannot drive it far the way it is acting or I would gladly do so. I am going to swap the vss and if that doesn't work I will wait until taxes get here and take it in.....

Thanks again +1 on the rep for you.
 
Located and resolved all the issues, the drivers side anti lock ring was broken. as for all the other symptoms, a rodent ate part of the wiring harness. My trans, drivability issues and VSS were all from a stupid hungry animal.....

Thanks again to everyone that offered there advice and help with this !!!!!!
 
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