Drilled/slotted rotors. Worth it?

[4 cam tbird]

You used a STREET pad on the track and then was disappointed in its performance?!?!? No shit.

The stock pads didn't start on fire! Same vehicle, same track. If we were talking about fade, sure, fine, it wasn't being used within it's intended range. But starting on fire? Come on now.

 

[ReiKo]

I need brakes on my 03 Sierra Pickup. Looking at some cross drilled/slotted rotors and ceramic pads. Right now I have the local autoparts shop brand rotors and semi-metallic pads and I'm less than impressed with the performance, especially when I'm towing. NOT looking to put huge rotors, etc on here.


Just looking for opinions, I've heard it both ways and want experts to chime in.

Thanks,

-Teeth.

I'll ship you the rotors and pads... Just let me know...

 

[OldbutNew]

no no no

That's all the confirmation I needed.

If you're pushing the very limits of adhesion lap after lap, drilled rotors are supposed to be able to reject more heat. Slotted rotors are supposed to allow gasses built up at the contact point to escape, and they clean the surface of the pad. UNLESS you are tracking the car A LOT, don't waste your money.

 

[Dr. Teeth]

I'll ship you the rotors and pads... Just let me know...

I'm actually headed down there this weekend. Might be able to pick them up. By my recollection, I owe you lunch too. Let me check the schedule when I get there and we'll go from there, eh?

 

[Billydroveit]

Used to be that on some rear-caliper vehicles there was an adjustment via the e-brake cable. I've never done it on the truck, just making sure that on this vehicle there isn't one. Judging from your post, there isn't.

Your truck should be E brake in rotor hat. I.E. there is a drum on the hub of the rotor that shoes hit when the E brake is pushed. This makes it a PITA to get off if there's rust and swelling of the pads. Ford is more prone to this than GM though. Still makes it tough to get the rotors off.

 

[ReiKo]

I'm actually headed down there this weekend. Might be able to pick them up. By my recollection, I owe you lunch too. Let me check the schedule when I get there and we'll go from there, eh?

Sounds good...

 

[Hugger Z]

That's all the confirmation I needed.

If you're pushing the very limits of adhesion lap after lap, drilled rotors are supposed to be able to reject more heat. Slotted rotors are supposed to allow gasses built up at the contact point to escape, and they clean the surface of the pad. UNLESS you are tracking the car A LOT, don't waste your money.

Yes Drilled rotors will cool faster due to more airflow through the heated surface. But as stated, they can also crack over time. As long as less than 50-75% of the holes have cracks started or any holes are connected with cracks then they are fine. Beyond that they would be risky to use as the rotor could separate from the hib.

As for gasses built up, that was only an issue in the 60's with the old pad compounds. That is not an issue with any pad compounds nowdays. Slotted rotors were actually used to scrape the pads clean. And they cause faster wear when used in a daily driver aspect.

 

[OnyxSSS]

also look at the rubber lines, they can fail and couase some issues with pedal feeling soft...if you want real good brakes swap to a hydro-boost instead of that weakass vaccume booster...very stright forward swap and does wonders if you are using the truck's brakes

 

[FlyLike]

Good thread. I was wondering the same thing for my camaro. I need to do something about the brakes for the 1/4 mile.

 

[Detroit Gearbox]

http://www.hawkperformance.com/performance/hps.php