crank trigger

sparks

sparks

Club Member
Has anybody fab'd a crank trigger for a 5.0/5.8 Ford? Locally?

Without changing the pulley offset for the serp setup?

The less I have to invent the better.
 
EFI type

Sean said:
What EFI system are you running ?
Click to expand...

Motec.

Currently using the narrow tooth Ford dizzy, looking to upgrade to crank triggering.

Headed in the "weld trigger wheel to pulley hub" direction right now.

Steve
 
Motec setup

Sean said:
What type of pulse patterns can the motec use ? can is use a 12x crank and 1x cam ?
Click to expand...

Yes, 12x crank and 1x cam are perfect. I can use MR or Hall type sensors (teeth on wheel or magnets on wheel)

What are you thinking?
 
Crank Trigger

I do a custom setup where I mount the crank trigger wheel between the timing cover and the balancer............Felix 734-216-5477
 
coils

Sean said:
What type of Ignition are you going to run ? Wastefire COP or DIS ? If so I have the perfect solution.
Click to expand...

First step, more accurate timing, single coil, through distributor top.

Second step probably will be DIS (4 coils). Not enough room to set up coil on plug. 351W app

Steve
 
UUgghh. If you were going to go ahead and do a COP or DIS system an AEM EPM would have been perfect. There are place you could mount the coils. Like this maybe ?


DSC00840.jpg


DSC00841.jpg



Plenty of room down there.

sparks said:
First step, more accurate timing, single coil, through distributor top.

Second step probably will be DIS (4 coils). Not enough room to set up coil on plug. 351W app

Steve
Click to expand...
 
packaging space

That is an interesting option, your cross member certainly does open things up. I checked out the EPM, not sure it has a steel gear? The EPM solves the issue I would have driving the oil pump which is the one reason I planned to keep the dizzy.

What type of coils are those?

Steve
 
You can run any gear that would fit any normal ford distributor. So if you wan tto run steel or polymer or brass or iron thats fine. It comes with an Iron gear standard. As for the coils those are the 5.3/6.0 coils. they have a semi round body and a heatsink in the back. And thats an AJE K frame with a single turbo setup which is why the header do not hang down near the oil pan.

Anything else you need give me a holler.

Sean

sparks said:
That is an interesting option, your cross member certainly does open things up. I checked out the EPM, not sure it has a steel gear? The EPM solves the issue I would have driving the oil pump which is the one reason I planned to keep the dizzy.

What type of coils are those?

Steve
Click to expand...
 
damper mass

Just FYI, I talked to a engine expert at work and he told me it is a no no to add lots of weight to the damper on the pulley side. It could cause timing chain failure (resulting in valve to piston contact of course). Okay to add weight before the rubber isolator on the damper (crank side).

Thanks for the idea to use the AEM solution, it is looking very nice.
 
I carry alot of AEM stuff but that would be a special order.

sparks said:
Just FYI, I talked to a engine expert at work and he told me it is a no no to add lots of weight to the damper on the pulley side. It could cause timing chain failure (resulting in valve to piston contact of course). Okay to add weight before the rubber isolator on the damper (crank side).

Thanks for the idea to use the AEM solution, it is looking very nice.
Click to expand...
 
I belive the Motec can run a number of trigger patterns. more resolution is not always the answer either. It take alot of clock to decode a 60tooth wheel at high rpm.

my8950 said:
Doesn't the Motec need a 60-2 tooth trigger wheel? I think since its capable of the higher resolution you'd want to take advantage of it...Considering the cost of a Motec...
Click to expand...
 
sparks said:
Just FYI, I talked to a engine expert at work and he told me it is a no no to add lots of weight to the damper on the pulley side. It could cause timing chain failure (resulting in valve to piston contact of course). Okay to add weight before the rubber isolator on the damper (crank side).

Thanks for the idea to use the AEM solution, it is looking very nice.
Click to expand...


I dunno, I think that engine expert might be a little too conservative. First of all, you can run a better dampner, maybe something SFI approved, that's a lot tougher. I've run many brands of superchargers for many years, and those kits put a giant pulley on top of the balancer, and then put tons of force inches ahead of where the old pulley used to go. At times we tightened the belt with a huge breaker bar, until it seemed the crank was bending. It seems crazy and stupid, but every time this was done, the car got faster. Never had any timing chain failures at all....normally when we took the engine apart, there was abnormal bearing wear (duh :) ) but this caused no other damage that we could find.

That said, it does make it a lot easier if you don't space out the crank pulley, because then you don't have to goof around with the rest of the accessories to make them work.

Another method I've seen is to carve out the center of the crank trigger wheel until you can actually mount it in front of the dampner, but "outside" of where the pulley goes. This leaves the pulley in it's stock position.

I'm using the Cito method on my car though, I'll let you know how it works.
 
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