braided stainless fuel line

svtserpent

svtserpent

Club Member
Braided stainless fuel line WTF? any tricks or secrets for getting the AN fittings to go on?
Im about to just go with the push lock type fittings, But I would hate to buy all new fittings & hose.
 
Takes a little practice, but once you get it, you'll be fine.
Here is how "I" do it. I know others use other techniques, but this has always worked for me.
1. Wrap the braided line with duct or elec tape where you need to cut it.
2. I use a VERY sharp chisel and pound it threw to cut it.
3. Squeeze the line back to round (its flattened after chisel), then carefully remove the tape (try not to let it fray)
4. Insert into the nut using a twisting motion - start on an angle (make sure all the strands get tucked in as you go)
5. Once fully inserted in the nut, I mark the line with a sharpie right at the back of the nut (this will show you if it moved while assembly)
6. I use Jegs Vise Jaws to hold the nut/line. Then a small about of WD-40 in the hose AND on the nipple part to be inserted.
7. Insert slowly to the hose (watch the mark you made on the line to make sure your not pushing it out of the nut)........you should be able to get it started in the threads by hand. (If not, try a little more lube)
6. Use AN wrench to tighten it all the way to the nut on the tube (again, watch the line you made).
A little laquer thinner will remove the sharpie mark (try not to get it on the fittings - it will lighten the anodizing)
Keep everything CLEAN while building your lines. Blow them out with compressed air when finished. Cap or tap them if your not going to connect them right away.
Becareful, those stainless lines are sharp as a mother fucker! :)
I dont like to use a cutoff wheel or saw to cut the line - too much shit gets in it. "Some" cable/bolt style cutters will work, but alot of times dont cut straight.

Here is the vise thingy: http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/80548/10002/-1?CT=999
Heres the wrenches: http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/80558/10002/-1?parentProductId=752724

One last thing.....
Make sure to flush the system with fuel before you hook it to your carb.
 
Last edited:
wrap the line with electrical tape really tight right where you wanna cut it then take a cut off wheel and hold it wide open and slowly cut through it let the cut off wheel do its job dont try and push through it because you will fray the line. then you can leave the tape right on there or take it off i always take it off. then just start on a little angle and spin the line in the fitting. it always works perfect for me no fraying and they basically go in by them selves.
 
chisel works the best for cutting! Just make sure the chisel is sharp and the hammer is heavy.. you want to try and cut it in one hard hit to To avoid fraying.
 
Thanks guys. Im still bleeding & haemorrhaging from last night. I was using a cut off wheel so my cuts are all comming out good, but when it came time to put the hose in the Earls fitting I was MFn the world.
I guy here at work says try shrink tube or a hose clamp to keep the end tight.
 
svtserpent said:
Thanks guys. Im still bleeding & haemorrhaging from last night. I was using a cut off wheel so my cuts are all comming out good, but when it came time to put the hose in the Earls fitting I was MFn the world.
I guy here at work says try shrink tube or a hose clamp to keep the end tight.
Click to expand...

Wrap the hose with tape before the cut. I use electrical tape because its less agressive to remove - which causes the fraying part. If you have one or two strands sticking out, cut them off with cutters.
Again, start on an angle and rotate it in, making sure all the strands get tucked inside the nut. Once they're all in, you should be able to twist in all the way home. You have to push at the same time.

Its all technique......once you get it.....you'll get it. Until then....LOL, you fingers will go through hell!
 
A few more tips:
If you see the stainless coming off the rubber hose (becoming loose or swelling), just stop. If you push any harder it will just make it worse.

If your not using swivel fitting (on 45,90,135*'s), make sure you mark the line and clock them correctly when your putting the line together. Otherwise you end up with twisted lines.

You can flush them with water (high pressure) to get out any debries, then just hang them to dry.
 
Yup ran into that as well. On one line that needs to be 8in long, all the braiding pushed right off the other end!! thats when I ran out of beer & said fuck it & went in for the night.
 
are you using the right size line in the right size fitting? dumb question but you never know cuz my lines all slipped right in no problem start on angle and twist in and push at the same time.
 
svtserpent said:
Down town Royal oak
Click to expand...

Damn, other end of the earth for me, if i were closer i'd come give ya a hand. Shit's a pain in the ass, but once you get a system down, it gets easier. The cut is the most important part of it. And always work from a large piece of line if you can. If you have a 8 in piece put the first end on while it's still in a larg chunk and assemble it, then cut the other side. The first side assembled will hold the line better, and give you something to brab while working the other fitting. Lieki said use windex to llubrcate it. It will evaporate and dry completely leaving no chance of it staying slippery.
 
Well apparently the stainless braided hose I had left over from when I did my trans lines was of inferior quality... Last night when I used the fuel line that came with my Glens sleeper system it went way smoother..
 
If you're doing fuel line, I'd just use the Push-lock hose. It's typically cheaper, and it's NHRA approved for EFI fuel systems.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top