Boost Controller Not Working

91Bird305

91Bird305

Club Member
So today I finally get the transmission in and decided to take it for a drive and turned down the Greddy ProFec B Spec II down to 5%, tested the meth injection, and gave it a hit and the boost went all the way to 20lbs and held. I thought that was sort of odd because usually 5% is around 10lbs. So I decide to test it and increase it to 10%. Still 20lbs. 15%, still 20lbs. Finally all the way to 26% and still stayed at 20lbs.

So obviously, my question is, where do I start to look for my problem? Possibly a hose off or loose somewhere?

I am just beat today from the drive from Chicago and then helping move some friends, that I am too tired to hunt thru the hoses. So I am looking for some guidance so I know where to look in the morning. :D Thanks.
 
Great. Shifts perfect now. I just have a small oil leak on the front of my valve cover gasket on the driver side. I tightened the bolts down. See if that helps. Then my boost controller problem.
 
I checked the hoses for leaks this morning and didn't see anything noticable in the lines back to the greddy solonoid.

The hose is hooked to the turbo compressor housing and then to the Greddy solenoid.

I am not sure what spring I am running. I can't remember ever having it above 20lbs before but that was because of motor break in. Now that the motor is broken in I want to get some full runs with it over 20lbs (24-25lbs) and can't seem to get over the 20lb hump, and yet when I turn the controller down, it doesn't turn the boost down. Which did work before.

I am not 100% sure what spring is in there.
 
progressive controller
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It can be setup to be progressive, yes. I don't run it that way though.

Not a stock turbo. A GT6776S w/ a heavy duty acuator.

I am going to try and disconnect the controller and see what my boost maxes at to see what spring I am running. I have no idea off the top of my head.
 
Sean said:
Hoses on the wastegate backwards ?
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Nope. Checked those.

I am going to try running a hose from the compressor housing to the acuator and see what kind of boost I make to see what the spring is at. Brian Scott recommended I try that before replacing parts.
 
91Bird305 said:
Nope. Checked those.

I am going to try running a hose from the compressor housing to the acuator and see what kind of boost I make to see what the spring is at. Brian Scott recommended I try that before replacing parts.
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Thats how it should be to begin with. You tee off of that line for the boost controller. It just basically bleeds off boost to keep the wastegate closed.
 
is this external or internal gate, you should be pulling signal from the compressor housing to the solenoid then from the exit on the solenoid to the gate. i would check the solenoid to see if the coil is dead. as a starter just ohm meter it it should have some resistance if it reads open its prob cooked.

i have never seen the profec where does it pull a reference signal?
 
is this external or internal gate, you should be pulling signal from the compressor housing to the solenoid then from the exit on the solenoid to the gate.
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That is how it is setup. I also checked to make sure the compressor hose was hooked to the correct part of the solenoid.

I am beginning to think the solenoid might be at fault here. Because everything else seems to be hooked up correctly.
 
yep meter it, it should show some resistance if it reads open then its bum. how does the controller get a reference? from the solenoid pressure? or does it use an secondary source to tell the solenoid how much to regulate? or does it not use an reference at all?
 
char said:
yep meter it, it should show some resistance if it reads open then its bum. how does the controller get a reference? from the solenoid pressure? or does it use an secondary source to tell the solenoid how much to regulate? or does it not use an reference at all?
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I believe it is pressure from the solenoid since the actual controller does have a 4mm hose that vents the air from the controller inside the car back into the engine bay.
 
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