Bad Wheel bearing, how can I tell which one it is?

Line Noise

Line Noise

Club Member
2000 Olds Alero making a whirring sound (Doesn't change when brakes are applied) does change with speed. I was over in Battle Creek when it started and I got a Traction Control, ABS, and Service Vehicle lights.

Searching online yeilded ton's of reports on Alero's that this combination is a bad Wheel bearing hub assembly. I no longer have any of the lights, however it sounds much much worse & sunday I have to drive to Niles, Then holland for work and need to fix it before then. It sounds like the front left but I can't tell fo sure. How can I test?
 
front left usually makes noise on right turns


usually the outside tire during a turn cause it see's the most load
 
1BADAIR said:
front left usually makes noise on right turns


usually the outside tire during a turn cause it see's the most load
Click to expand...

Less noise on right turns. Tomorrow am I'll jeck it up and spin it and listen ...
 
1BADAIR is correct.
Line Noise said:
Less noise on right turns. Tomorrow am I'll jeck it up and spin it and listen ...
Click to expand...
It's more than likely the RF bearing, especially if it gets louder than normal on left turns. You probably won't hear anything by jacking the front end up and spinning the wheels since the bearings aren't loaded.
 
lift up that corner of the car and try to shake the wheel. usually if you have a bad berring you can wiggle the wheel side to side because the berring is loose and worn out. The ABS light is possiably related due to the movement and vibration a bad wheel berring will allow, but i doubt it. The engine light i dont believe should be related at all.
 
some cars us wheel speed for trans input which could turn the engine light on but I am pretty sure that car doesn't.
I have seen many bad bearings with no signs of movement
 
should be able to turn back and forth like a slalom course (at slow speeds)and see when the noise changes with each direction. also have a passanger in the car to see if they can pinpoint which it is.

1BADAIR's probably right, but I have seen a few where by loading the bearing when its the outside wheel on a turn makes it quieter.

and, if its that noisy its likely to have some play in it, wiggle the wheel/tire side to side and up and down to feel for any play. get both wheels in the air, and see if there's any difference.

AND, hope that its not both sides making noise.
 
It's not a SES light it's a SVS (service vehilce). After reading the Alero/Gran am forums. I'm 100% sure this combination is a wheel bearing. There where 100's of posts and everyone except 2 where the bearings the others were unplugged Speed Sensors.

This will be the 4th Wheel bearing on this car in 90K miles. It really doesn't sound to bad to replace.


Appreciat all the info guys.
 
Line Noise said:
It's not a SES light it's a SVS (service vehilce). After reading the Alero/Gran am forums. I'm 100% sure this combination is a wheel bearing. There where 100's of posts and everyone except 2 where the bearings the others were unplugged Speed Sensors.

This will be the 4th Wheel bearing on this car in 90K miles. It really doesn't sound to bad to replace.


Appreciat all the info guys.
Click to expand...

Stop buying cheap replacement bearings. Go to a NAPA or another Quality parts sales store and geta premium SKF. For a good hub assembly you should spend around $200 per side.
 
Sean said:
Stop buying cheap replacement bearings. Go to a NAPA or another Quality parts sales store and geta premium SKF. For a good hub assembly you should spend around $200 per side.
Click to expand...

The 4 replacements were warrenty. Also 1 strut, and Front rotors 3 (warping) times. It seems N-Body's are shitty on Bearinga and rotor's.

I can look at the car wrong and make it warp a rotor.
 
Line Noise said:
The 4 replacements were warrenty. Also 1 strut, and Front rotors 3 (warping) times. It seems N-Body's are shitty on Bearinga and rotor's.

I can look at the car wrong and make it warp a rotor.
Click to expand...

PArts quality and instilation practices have a huge impact on rotor warping. We do Nbody brakes all day long and have zero issues with pedal pulsation or shake and brake as we call it here. The issue is usually rotor material quality not all iron is the same and cutting the rotors and cleaning the hub surfaces so the rotors doesn't distort when its torqued down.

As for the hub if your shopping at the Dealer,Autozone Murrays etc your getting the same crappy hub all the time. Junk chinese seals leak water in. the other issue maybe Axle nut tq. If the nut is under Tq'd it will kill the bearing super fast Also have to make sure that the nut doesn't bottom out and that there is a washer under it. If there is no washer and the nut bottoms without pulling the races tight it will kill a bearing in a hurry.. The TQ spec is 350lb ft.
 
Sean said:
PArts quality and instilation practices have a huge impact on rotor warping. We do Nbody brakes all day long and have zero issues with pedal pulsation or shake and brake as we call it here. The issue is usually rotor material quality not all iron is the same and cutting the rotors and cleaning the hub surfaces so the rotors doesn't distort when its torqued down.

As for the hub if your shopping at the Dealer,Autozone Murrays etc your getting the same crappy hub all the time. Junk chinese seals leak water in. the other issue maybe Axle nut tq. If the nut is under Tq'd it will kill the bearing super fast Also have to make sure that the nut doesn't bottom out and that there is a washer under it. If there is no washer and the nut bottoms without pulling the races tight it will kill a bearing in a hurry.. The TQ spec is 350lb ft.
Click to expand...


thanks. Chilton's called for 284 ft / lbs
 
Sean, you sure on the Tq. spec? Alldata pro says old style nut is 284 ft lbs (which is what i torqued mine to cause i reused the stock nut) new nut style pn. 10289657 is 173 ft. lbs, also if you have 16 inch wheels i can solve that rotor warping issue you have, i have 60k miles on the rotors i currently have (which were used, and i mean 60k miles addidtional to whatever was on them already) and 186k miles on my wheel bearings, and never have had a problem, but i tore through the stock (even GM) rotors like crazy
 
88ls1blazer said:
Sean, you sure on the Tq. spec? Alldata pro says old style nut is 284 ft lbs (which is what i torqued mine to cause i reused the stock nut) new nut style pn. 10289657 is 173 ft. lbs, also if you have 16 inch wheels i can solve that rotor warping issue you have, i have 60k miles on the rotors i currently have (which were used, and i mean 60k miles addidtional to whatever was on them already) and 186k miles on my wheel bearings, and never have had a problem, but i tore through the stock (even GM) rotors like crazy
Click to expand...

Old nut 350lb ft. If you under Tq the hub it will move around and let water in the seals and ruin it.
 
i guess ive got a factory freak :dontknow: , you know im not arguing w/ you sean, just baffled why mine has been so worry free, its not like i baby that car
 
Line Noise said:
My ears are wide open I do have the 16" wheels
Click to expand...

Sure put the rotor on and TQ it to spec with the wheel and mark a stud for line up. tghten and loosen the wheel 4-5 time then turn the rotor.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top