Anyone have or know a shop that has a engine test stand?

tewkes28

Club Member
I'm looking for someone/or a shop that has a engine test stand set-up. I'd like to have my engine broken in (cam break in, timing adjustment, carb adjust., valve adj.) and make sure everything is leak free, etc.. before I put it in my car. The engine is a 302. If anyone also knows, how much does a shop charge to do that sort of thing? Thanks

Bryan
 
Oh yeah I forgot to mention preferably on the east side (warren, sterling heights, etc..)

I'll check with Livernois though, thanks CMYZ28
 
couple questions:

Is this a you don't have time thing?

or

are you asking this because you do not know how?



For the money you will spend having that done you could have put it in and taken it out several times. Put it in - if its a solid roller set the "cold lash" a few thou tight - fire it up - check for leaks - get it up to temp - check "hot lash" and adjust accordingly. Take it to the track - add fuel until it looses mph, then back off a couple numbers. Once the fuel is right start adding timing, read the plugs and throw more fuel at it if need be.

The lesson behind all of this is, if you have someone else "tune" it, or "adjust it", you will have gained zero knowledge of "your" car. Then when something starts acting up or doesn't seem to run as strong, you'll have no idea where to look first...and then the cycle continues...you'll call them and pay them more money to fix it again.

Don't take this as offensive, I just hate seeing capable people (those that have a brain in general) pay others to do things that are quite simple just because they haven't done it yet. Not knowing is the first step in the learning process. If you don't have the time, thats another story.
 
I use a old bell housing and a make shift 1"x"1 frame that I build to start my engines when I was younger and just getting in to things... Now I trust myself to pu tthem in and start'em in the car first time..
 
couple questions:

Is this a you don't have time thing?

or

are you asking this because you do not know how?



For the money you will spend having that done you could have put it in and taken it out several times. Put it in - if its a solid roller set the "cold lash" a few thou tight - fire it up - check for leaks - get it up to temp - check "hot lash" and adjust accordingly. Take it to the track - add fuel until it looses mph, then back off a couple numbers. Once the fuel is right start adding timing, read the plugs and throw more fuel at it if need be.

The lesson behind all of this is, if you have someone else "tune" it, or "adjust it", you will have gained zero knowledge of "your" car. Then when something starts acting up or doesn't seem to run as strong, you'll have no idea where to look first...and then the cycle continues...you'll call them and pay them more money to fix it again.

Don't take this as offensive, I just hate seeing capable people (those that have a brain in general) pay others to do things that are quite simple just because they haven't done it yet. Not knowing is the first step in the learning process. If you don't have the time, thats another story.


No offense taken, you have some very good points. It's not that I don't have time but more of the I don't know how. I'm afraid to fuck up my brand new motor. I'm not looking for someone to tune it, but just make sure that everything is in proper order. This is going in to 49' ford. Its more of a cruiser than a drag car so taking it to the strip is not going to be happening. I'm sure I could figure it out but I'm paranoid about creating damage. I was thinking it would be easier to fix problems if the engine is out of the car, but since the body is currently off the car I guess it doesn't matter. Thanks for the tips.

Bryan
 
No offense taken, you have some very good points. It's not that I don't have time but more of the I don't know how. I'm afraid to fuck up my brand new motor. I'm not looking for someone to tune it, but just make sure that everything is in proper order. This is going in to 49' ford. Its more of a cruiser than a drag car so taking it to the strip is not going to be happening. I'm sure I could figure it out but I'm paranoid about creating damage. I was thinking it would be easier to fix problems if the engine is out of the car, but since the body is currently off the car I guess it doesn't matter. Thanks for the tips.

Bryan


Ok, so is this a hydraulic roller or flat tappet cam? Or is it a solid / mechanical? If the engine is already assembled, the chances of you causing any more damage than a "professional" (<- Haha, now thats funny :)) is highly unlikely. The damage, if any was to occur, would have been caused during the assembly. Since this is a street engine or cruiser so to speak, i would just be sure not to "over-carb" it. This will help it to run a little cleaner and a have a quicker throttle response down low.

I am assuming this is an N/A application, and with that being said it will be pretty tough for you to hurt anything.


Can you list the parts you have in this thing?
 
It's a flat tappet cam. Everything is edlebrock performer series (cam, intake, carb) The motor is a 289 block bored .030, late model heads, 1.6 ratio roller rockers, forged bottom end. The carb I intend on using is the edelbrock 600cfm.

I trust the guy who built it. He is my cousin and a member here. The short block was originally built for one of his strip cars. I kind of ruined the potential by putting on pretty much stock heads, etc..

My basic understanding is to get everything set-up, make sure all the ignition components are working, make sure the cooling system is functioning, make sure to use some sort of eos or similar high zinc cam break in oil, start the car and run it at about 2200-2500 for about 25 minutes.
 
It's a flat tappet cam. Everything is edlebrock performer series (cam, intake, carb) The motor is a 289 block bored .030, late model heads, 1.6 ratio roller rockers, forged bottom end. The carb I intend on using is the edelbrock 600cfm.

I trust the guy who built it. He is my cousin and a member here. The short block was originally built for one of his strip cars. I kind of ruined the potential by putting on pretty much stock heads, etc..

My basic understanding is to get everything set-up, make sure all the ignition components are working, make sure the cooling system is functioning, make sure to use some sort of eos or similar high zinc cam break in oil, start the car and run it at about 2200-2500 for about 25 minutes.

You are on the right track. Sounds like you'll be just fine. To be honest this is a good engine to learn with as there is not much you can do to mess it up. This way you'll have the knowledge gained to put towards your next engine, be it another naturally aspirated piece or a power adder deal with a bunch of Nitrous or forced induction.
 
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