700R4 converter question
- Thread starter Exgmguy
- Start date
dave89iroc
Club Member
full throttle, shouldn't
BigWheelinBubba
Club Member
Theres a way to manually lock it with a switch. I used to have one in my old iroc. It took 2/10th's off in the 1/4.
Detroit Gearbox
Forum Member
several things can cause the converter to lock. a stock converter should not be locked under power, or lets say heavy acceleration. some aftermarket converters can be locked under full power, but those are pieces designed for that purpose.
first off, do you have a aftermarket prom or piggy back chip? some early chips locked the tcc under WOT.
second, do you have any sort of scan tool that reads data? the ecm may be sending the signal for tcc apply. a quick pass with a scan tool will tell you.
third, are you sure it locks up in third and not second gear, reason i ask is its common for the tcc solenoid to fail, causing lock up right after it shifts into second. this usually accrues after the trans gets hot-160-200f
93 is a funny year. in f body cars they still used a 700r4, everything else got a 4l60e. the 700r4 trans produced that year is very different than any other 700r4, different case, input drum, pump, valve body and many other 1 year only parts. fucked up piece IMO. you can tell which one you have by seeing if it has a TV cable attached to the throttle body. if it has a cable, its a
700r4. if so, unplug the trans, (plug located drivers side 4-6 " behind the shifter.
if it locks up with it unplugged, the solenoid is bad. they make aftermarket ones designed to splice in place, without removing the harness.
hope that helps-rich
first off, do you have a aftermarket prom or piggy back chip? some early chips locked the tcc under WOT.
second, do you have any sort of scan tool that reads data? the ecm may be sending the signal for tcc apply. a quick pass with a scan tool will tell you.
third, are you sure it locks up in third and not second gear, reason i ask is its common for the tcc solenoid to fail, causing lock up right after it shifts into second. this usually accrues after the trans gets hot-160-200f
93 is a funny year. in f body cars they still used a 700r4, everything else got a 4l60e. the 700r4 trans produced that year is very different than any other 700r4, different case, input drum, pump, valve body and many other 1 year only parts. fucked up piece IMO. you can tell which one you have by seeing if it has a TV cable attached to the throttle body. if it has a cable, its a
700r4. if so, unplug the trans, (plug located drivers side 4-6 " behind the shifter.
if it locks up with it unplugged, the solenoid is bad. they make aftermarket ones designed to splice in place, without removing the harness.
hope that helps-rich
Exgmguy
Club Member
I do have a 700R4. I just checked the adjustment on the TV cable and it was too tight, allowing the throttle to not fully open. I still ran 13.6 that way. 
As far as a chip, I have an old school Hypertech for a 160 thermostat. I don't have a scan tool either. I know I can lock the converter by jumping the A and F terminals on the ALDL, but I thought that torque multiplication would go away and I would slow down doing that. Maybe hook it to a toggle switch and lock it in 3rd gear only?
I'm trying everything I can do to get this thing to clip a 12 second pass before I start spending significant money.
It definitely does not lock until 3rd gear. I can lean on the gas a little in 3rd and tap the brake and it unlocks.
As far as a chip, I have an old school Hypertech for a 160 thermostat. I don't have a scan tool either. I know I can lock the converter by jumping the A and F terminals on the ALDL, but I thought that torque multiplication would go away and I would slow down doing that. Maybe hook it to a toggle switch and lock it in 3rd gear only?I'm trying everything I can do to get this thing to clip a 12 second pass before I start spending significant money.
It definitely does not lock until 3rd gear. I can lean on the gas a little in 3rd and tap the brake and it unlocks.
Detroit Gearbox
Forum Member
i don't recommend locking it while wot, it will fail.
you can always try drag racing with it unplugged (at the trans), but don't drive it for any distance with it unplugged ( espically in od) . it will overheat the fluid-rich
you can always try drag racing with it unplugged (at the trans), but don't drive it for any distance with it unplugged ( espically in od) . it will overheat the fluid-rich
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