2004 Tahoe Hydroboost help

H.O. Driver

H.O. Driver

Forum Member
It looks like a pretty straight forward swap out, but any pro tips or secrets I should know on this? It never seams to fail with anything I work on, if it is an easy straight forward replacement of a part, it never is easy lol. I grabbed all AC Delco replacement parts from Rock Auto, unless anyone has a better suggestion. I can't find any leaks in the brake lines, fluid level is good but pedal goes to the floor. Power steering still works so it is getting boost, I will have to see if the power steering fluid is low, that could cause it but any other suggestions before I start ripping into this thing?

Thanks
 
Power steering is just the assist. If the pedal goes to the floor with no leaks the master is most likely leaking internally
 
1BADAIR said:
Power steering is just the assist. If the pedal goes to the floor with no leaks the master is most likely leaking internally
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I kind of figured that but I had to rule it out, I have 2 days until the parts get here, so it was a good excuse to hang out in the garage a little longer lol
 
Well I put a new master cylinder and booster in, bleed all the lines and master and it will hold pressure for a little while and then go soft again and throw the service brake system on the DIC.

I have drove it and it stops but the peddle is really soft but the fluid levels remain the same. What am I missing. I am going to bleed the lines again tomorrow but something has got to give.

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Vacuum hose in good shape? Power steering pump pulley shaft sheared. You will need to remove the belt and pull on pulley to check. Check rear brakes for anything obvious (worn out, broken hardware, missing hardware, properly adjusted) .

When you bleed the brakes, lift the front wheels off the ground and turn while holding the steering wheel to full lock.
 
Beigg said:
Vacuum hose in good shape? Power steering pump pulley shaft sheared. You will need to remove the belt and pull on pulley to check. Check rear brakes for anything obvious (worn out, broken hardware, missing hardware, properly adjusted) .

When you bleed the brakes, lift the front wheels off the ground and turn while holding the steering wheel to full lock.
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I can't get the idle to change spraying starter fluid on stuff, I just did the power steering pump not even a year ago. Rear brakes and front breaks all have less then 12,000 miles on them. All is good, I bleed the master cylinder again yesterday and the brake lines twice yesterday. I drove it last night and got the ABS to kick on. I will bleed the lines again tonight and see what happens lol
 
Well I found an issue, I got the abs to kick on a few times and then went back to the garage. Finally I had enough brake fluid puddle up and start leaking out of the snow packed under the truck. The straight line just before the rear distribution block is leaking. I guess I need to replace that and then find the next weakest spot.

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H.O. Driver said:
Well I found an issue, I got the abs to kick on a few times and then went back to the garage. Finally I had enough brake fluid puddle up and start leaking out of the snow packed under the truck. The straight line just before the rear distribution block is leaking. I guess I need to replace that and then find the next weakest spot.

Sent from my D6708 using Tapatalk
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call inline tube, and just replace all the lines, you will need to cut the one that runs under that radiator and union it, If one line is rusted through the rest arent far behind
 
moneypit said:
call inline tube, and just replace all the lines, you will need to cut the one that runs under that radiator and union it, If one line is rusted through the rest arent far behind
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Right, I just replaced the rear lines yesterday and will be doing the front lines next. It is cheap and isn't too hard. Just fishing the lines around and through is the biggest pain.

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