nitrouspete
Forum Member
1990 Mustang LX Twilight blue.
Engine-
351W roller block
stock crank
stock truck rods-ARP bolts
Gurdle and studded main kit
Power forged dished pistons .030
moly rings
MLS head gaskets with ARP studs
AFR 195 heads,
Ford racing 1.6 RR
F-Cam
Vr. Jr. intake converted for EFI with EFI elbow.
new bearings all fresh. one season. all machine work, block prep, and balancing done by fast time racing.
Runs on C16
Engine is 8.5 to 1
twin 10 inch fans keep everything cool
Transmission-
C4 internals, C5 body Built by Lang out of milan MI.($1180)
has 2 street passes on it since rebuild and about 8 Dyno runs
PTC converter built for this engine
FMVB with pro tree brake
larger fined pan
SFI bell housing, flexplate, and scatter shield
B&M supercooler with -8 an lines
Hurst pro shifter
Fuel system-
Pro750 pump
Areomotive boost ref. FPR
-10 feed
-6 return
Sumped stock tank
72 pound bosch deka injectors
Aftermarket fuel rails
Induction-
on 3 turbo kit, bov and wastegate
Upgraded master power 70MM turbo with .96 AR housing
(included-on 3 turbo with .81 ar ex housing..needs rebuild)
15 PSI
3 inch exhaust down pipe off the turbo outside of the passenger side fender
manual boost controller
Ignition-
Fast classic system with laptop
MSD crank trigger
MSD distributor
MSD digitial 6AL-2 with built in 2 step
Rear end-
33 spline moser kit with full spool, c-clip elims, 3 inch studs.
3.31 gear
mouser cover with support studs
4 lug
Wheels-
Weld 10 holes
ET slicks out back 28x10.5x15
skinny fronts
Suspension-
Strange 10 way adjustables all the way around
coil over kit up front- think 12-200 springs
Gripper CC plates
QA1 k member and LCA's
solid upper and lower control arms out back with Poly bushings.
Stock springs
No ARB.
Power everything still
Auto meter gauges
no cage full interere except Jegs race buckets up front.
clean car, no rust, as some small dents and scratches but its a 1990 and not bad for its age. original paint.( except the hood.) 6 inch bolt on hood.
inside is clean also, no stains or bad smells
Now the Issues i know about-
1. no keys and ignitions busted so switches turn everything on inside. a new steering collom would fix it, but i dont mind the switches. The holes for the switches are in a homemade panel so the dash wouldent be Swiss cheese.
2. Has a header leak...think maybe a headers warped because i've tried to get it fixed with no luck.
3. small oil leak somewhere because i see residue under but very minimal because i couldent even find it..planed on pulling the engine out this winter so i was letting it go for now.
4. hood could use some better body work, but looks good from 10 ft back.
5. could use a bigger alternator because of the electronics
10k$ firm. i have over that in this car but im going back to a carbed nitrous car and id rather see this go to a good home then part her out and gut her into a race car. im done with messing with FI and turbos..to much work for me and i cant afford the costs that go along with it.
will trade for a turn key nitrous car or roller thats built.
Will do partal trades also for a roller that still needs work or a nitrous car that still needs work.
cash is always king though.
numbers will be given to seriously interested parties. Numbers are good but ran out of boost with the turbo on the dyno, but she has alot left in her with just a turbo swap for more boost.
313-289-7516 Pete
Newport mi
Clean and clear title in hand.
Engine-
351W roller block
stock crank
stock truck rods-ARP bolts
Gurdle and studded main kit
Power forged dished pistons .030
moly rings
MLS head gaskets with ARP studs
AFR 195 heads,
Ford racing 1.6 RR
F-Cam
Vr. Jr. intake converted for EFI with EFI elbow.
new bearings all fresh. one season. all machine work, block prep, and balancing done by fast time racing.
Runs on C16
Engine is 8.5 to 1
twin 10 inch fans keep everything cool
Transmission-
C4 internals, C5 body Built by Lang out of milan MI.($1180)
has 2 street passes on it since rebuild and about 8 Dyno runs
PTC converter built for this engine
FMVB with pro tree brake
larger fined pan
SFI bell housing, flexplate, and scatter shield
B&M supercooler with -8 an lines
Hurst pro shifter
Fuel system-
Pro750 pump
Areomotive boost ref. FPR
-10 feed
-6 return
Sumped stock tank
72 pound bosch deka injectors
Aftermarket fuel rails
Induction-
on 3 turbo kit, bov and wastegate
Upgraded master power 70MM turbo with .96 AR housing
(included-on 3 turbo with .81 ar ex housing..needs rebuild)
15 PSI
3 inch exhaust down pipe off the turbo outside of the passenger side fender
manual boost controller
Ignition-
Fast classic system with laptop
MSD crank trigger
MSD distributor
MSD digitial 6AL-2 with built in 2 step
Rear end-
33 spline moser kit with full spool, c-clip elims, 3 inch studs.
3.31 gear
mouser cover with support studs
4 lug
Wheels-
Weld 10 holes
ET slicks out back 28x10.5x15
skinny fronts
Suspension-
Strange 10 way adjustables all the way around
coil over kit up front- think 12-200 springs
Gripper CC plates
QA1 k member and LCA's
solid upper and lower control arms out back with Poly bushings.
Stock springs
No ARB.
Power everything still
Auto meter gauges
no cage full interere except Jegs race buckets up front.
clean car, no rust, as some small dents and scratches but its a 1990 and not bad for its age. original paint.( except the hood.) 6 inch bolt on hood.
inside is clean also, no stains or bad smells
Now the Issues i know about-
1. no keys and ignitions busted so switches turn everything on inside. a new steering collom would fix it, but i dont mind the switches. The holes for the switches are in a homemade panel so the dash wouldent be Swiss cheese.
2. Has a header leak...think maybe a headers warped because i've tried to get it fixed with no luck.
3. small oil leak somewhere because i see residue under but very minimal because i couldent even find it..planed on pulling the engine out this winter so i was letting it go for now.
4. hood could use some better body work, but looks good from 10 ft back.
5. could use a bigger alternator because of the electronics
10k$ firm. i have over that in this car but im going back to a carbed nitrous car and id rather see this go to a good home then part her out and gut her into a race car. im done with messing with FI and turbos..to much work for me and i cant afford the costs that go along with it.
will trade for a turn key nitrous car or roller thats built.
Will do partal trades also for a roller that still needs work or a nitrous car that still needs work.
cash is always king though.
numbers will be given to seriously interested parties. Numbers are good but ran out of boost with the turbo on the dyno, but she has alot left in her with just a turbo swap for more boost.
313-289-7516 Pete
Newport mi
Clean and clear title in hand.
